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Old December 15, 2001, 10:33 PM   #1
J.T.King
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Problems with Redding Profile Crimp...

Hey guys!

Just got my Spankin' new 650XL set up (x-mas but a bit early! ;])...

Also started using my new profile crimp die for 45lc...

Here is what I've been loading:

250gr lasercast LRNFP
7.8gr Universal
CCI LP
Starline Nickel

Problem is, no matter how light I go on the crimp, if it will press the mouth into the canalure, it strips off the top .5mm of nickle!!!

Is this normal???

If I back it off a 1/8th turn, the nickle doesnt get stripped, but the mouth won't crimp into the cannalure, leaving a grove/hole between the casemouth and the bullet. No, I am not belling this very much at all, only enough to keep lead from shaving on bullet seat.

Am I doing something wrong?

Help!

thanks!

JT
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Old December 15, 2001, 11:41 PM   #2
sricciardelli
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Sounds like bad brass to me...the plating is not sticking to the brass...

I never liked Starline brass...
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Old December 15, 2001, 11:54 PM   #3
WESHOOT2
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Hmmmmm..........

Bullet completely seated (correctly) before crimping?

Same results with (any) other brand of case?

Just nickel stripped, or any more material 'ringing'?

Do the 'ringed' cartridges perform?

(Nickel cases 'may' act slightly weird; best choice for handloaders is normally a brass case.)
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Old December 16, 2001, 02:05 PM   #4
J.T.King
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Some answers...

Bullet seems seated correctly: alligned straight, no lead shavings, casemouth just below top of cannalure...

Don't know about other brands of case... I do know that I have never used a roll-crimp with a nickel case before, onle taper crimps with straight-walled auto-pistol nickel.

Mainly just nickel, but before I backed it off nearly all the way I was getting a little brass stripping as well.

I haven't tested the rounds yet, but I have no reason to believe that they will not "perform" just fine. I am more worriedabout case life and preserving those purty nickel cases.

I have 1000 brass and 1000 nickel for 45LC... I have loaded up a bunch of brass cases with some ringing as well, but wasn't overly concerned about it until I saw it stripping my nickel cases.

Any ideas?

Thanks!

JT
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Old December 16, 2001, 07:10 PM   #5
WESHOOT2
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WILL EXPERIMENT / TRY TO DUPLICATE

IMNSLE brass cases will offer greater life; nickel, although 'purty', does not exhibit anywhere near the life of brass.

Some 'ringing' (material donated by case during crimp) is normal, but only on first go-around.

Sounds like you have all bases covered, but I've NEVER used Starline nickel, so I have no experience to draw on. The R-P and/or W-W nickel cases I use don't seem to 'ring' excessively.
At this time, when loading for personal use, nickel cases are rarely used, usually for corrosion resistance or ease of extraction (IPSC/USPSA). "Stupid" ammo goes in brass cases only.

Best case for 44 Mag/ 45 Colt "Stupid": Starline (unless you can get some Federal cases, but THEY are only available in loaded ammo).
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Old December 16, 2001, 07:13 PM   #6
WESHOOT2
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HAD ANOTHER (SLOW) THOUGHT

Contact Redding, maybe they know something (after all, ALWAYS POSSIBLE die is not correct).
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Old December 16, 2001, 07:18 PM   #7
Bill Adair
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JT,

Did you chamfer and deburr the cases first?

New cases often have a very rough edge on the case mouth, and it's not uncommon to shave some brass particles.

I no longer use nickel cases, as the flakes are hard enough to embed in your steel dies, and scratch the hell out of any new brass cases run through the same die.

Almost all of my sizer dies are carbide, but the expander and crimp dies are still steel.

Bill
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Old December 16, 2001, 10:34 PM   #8
J.T.King
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No, I didn't, Bill...

I use all carbide dies, if that makes any difference...

you know, I have always loaded with Remmington nickel for my .45acp, and never had any problems...

But I have been getting scratched cases with the 45LC and I'm thinking maybe I should be lubing these?

In any case, YES, they look a little rough around the case-mouth. Could I just be kinda screwed here?

So I guess the real $$$ question is, is there any long-term problem with nickel cases having the last .5mm nickel stripped, other than the lower reload life of nickel?

JT
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Old December 16, 2001, 11:27 PM   #9
Bill Adair
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JT,

Why don't you call Starline?

It's possible they had a problem with the nickel plating process, and will make good on those cases. Can't hurt to ask.

I switched to carbide dies not too long after tossing all my nickel cases, so I don't know if carbide would have the same problem.

Finally had my original steel sizing die polished to eliminate the scratching, but I'd already switched to carbide for all my hangun reloading.

I realize any kind of grit can scratch brass cases, but when I ran brand new cases through my sizer die, and they came out looking like they'd been reloaded twenty times, it ticked me off.

Bill
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Old December 17, 2001, 05:23 AM   #10
Redneck2
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Nickel cases

After reading Varmint Al's site and the section about nickel cases, I tossed all mine. You may want to go read what he has to say. www.cctrap.com (hope that's right)
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Old December 17, 2001, 07:03 AM   #11
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The url doesn't appear to be correct. cctrap.com is a computer services company named "Computer Contraptions" out of Brentwood, CA.

Any other ideas what the url should be?
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Old December 17, 2001, 07:03 AM   #12
WESHOOT2
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THROWING CASES AWAY?

Suggest keeping components for (like me) special uses and just-in-cases..........

I've got some 38 Special, 38 Super, 357 Mag, and 44 Mag cases I've loaded multiple times. Good enough for light-power foolin' around ammo.
Light-power refers to scale; my 44 IPSC Major load goes 210 PF.
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Old December 17, 2001, 04:27 PM   #13
Bill Adair
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Try this for Varmint Al's reloading page.

http://www.cctrap.com/~varmint/arelo.htm

Bill
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