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Old January 3, 2013, 10:03 AM   #1
jason_iowa
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What cant I polish??

I have been thinking about taking some metal polish to some of my stainless revolvers. Is there any parts or places that I should avoid polishing or any particular polish that is best to use or best to avoid. Also a cloth that is best to use.

I am NOT a gun smith so I will not be cracking anything open. I hope to get some books and learn more about gun smithing. I'm kinda hoping I can find a local gun smith who would trade hours of me doing grunt work in return for education.

Thanks in advance guys and gals.
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Old January 3, 2013, 10:46 AM   #2
darkroommike
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If you don't know what you're doing then don't!

Practice, A LOT, on stainless spoons, knives, forks, etc., a good source would be thrift shops, before you ever go near a gun. I can't tell you the number of threads that begin with a cry for help: rollmarks, engraving, serial numbers partially or completely obliterated by overzealous polishing. Things like that can affect the value of the piece you are working on. If you must work on guns see if you can find some hurt units, parts and pieces at guns shows to practice on. If you can't find a local gunsmith to get some instruction try a community college, clockmaker or jeweler.
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Old January 3, 2013, 11:06 AM   #3
spacecoast
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You aren't going to hurt anything by hand polishing a stainless gun. I've done it a few times and have seen some outstanding results here on TFL, some guys work hard to get a real mirror-like finish.

I would stick with anything you can see when the cylinder is closed, but remove the cylinder and cylinder latch to make it easier. I like to use Mothers Mag and Aluminum Polish and soft cloths.

http://www.mothers.com/02_products/05100-05101.html

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Old January 3, 2013, 11:46 AM   #4
Magnum Wheel Man
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I like my polished Ruger single actions ( currently have 2 pairs )

as far as not polishing... I'd suggest not polishing the top of the barrel / sight rail, so you don't get glare there... otherwise my Rugers come from the factory with polished triggers & hammers...

another suggestion...warning about machine polishing too heavily, & be prepared to disassemble & flush all the parts, polishing compound is a mild abrasive, & while it could actually help the smoothness of the action ( in some cases ) leaving it around on the inside of the gun, could damage some of the firing mechanism over the long term
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Old January 3, 2013, 11:57 AM   #5
Mystro
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mmmmm polished.
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Old January 3, 2013, 02:33 PM   #6
Bill DeShivs
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Indiscriminate polishing by neophytes can do damage. It's very difficult to keep polishing pastes out of the inner workings of a gun-especially revolvers. Once inside, the abrasives can imbed in the metal-causing excessive wear. If you can't completely disassemble/reassemble your gun, you shouldn't be polishing it. The excess abrasive must be thoroughly removed from the inside of the gun. And no- you can't be so careful that none will get inside.
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Old January 3, 2013, 03:12 PM   #7
BigJimP
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Hand polishing the outside of the gun is fine...in moderation...and with some common sense. Use a little bit on a soft rag ....and a soft rag to remove it ...and you're probably fine.

A good mag wheel or chrome polish ...like Mothers, or Blue Magic ...or Flitz ..are all fine - and not too agressive.
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Old January 3, 2013, 03:35 PM   #8
geetarman
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Polishing paste is a LOT like really fine lapping compound. . .you will never get it all out. It will always be there . . .working.

I would rather use a fine abrasive texture pad. The problem with that is achieving the finish you want. For me, I like a satin finish. Get a nick or small scratch and it is easy to blend it out.
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Old January 3, 2013, 03:42 PM   #9
BigD_in_FL
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Be careful polishing the front of the cylinder - too heavy a hand can result in making the cylinder gap bigger than desired
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Old January 3, 2013, 06:44 PM   #10
jason_iowa
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I think Ill just leave em alone.
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Old January 4, 2013, 08:01 PM   #11
jglsprings
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Well, it isn't hard to do...

Before.



After.



I just used Mother's mag polish and a soft rag, rubbed everything by hand and followed the directions. After I was done I used gun scrubber to make sure nothing got left inside the action. I did remove the cylinder but it wasn't mandatory.

If you don't think you are up to it you shouldn't do it.

Don't let everyone scare you though.

P.S.
In answer to your original question, if it is bead blasted or appears frosted (ie. the top of the sight plane, the trigger or the hammer) leave it alone.
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Last edited by jglsprings; January 5, 2013 at 01:09 PM. Reason: added P.S.
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Old January 4, 2013, 08:50 PM   #12
jmfc606
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Get a tube of FLITZ and have at it!!
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Old January 5, 2013, 03:19 PM   #13
Super Sneaky Steve
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All I can say is it's a lot of work. Prepare to get sore fingers and once you start you're all in. You can't have half of your gun shiney and the other side not.

But if you somehow messed it up you can always have it sand blasted to put the dull finish back on.
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Old January 5, 2013, 06:00 PM   #14
prm
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LOL - Polishing is easy. Go to the auto parts store and pick up a jar of Mother's Mag Polish. Do it by hand with a terri-cloth dish towel.

I spent one evening (couple of hours) on my Model 60-9. The more you polish the more it shines. You can get a finish that is better than factory nickel. Doing it by hand, you don't round edges, stretch lettering, or remove metal that can't be put back.

I've never had a problem with the Mother's transferring from the cloth to the insides of the gun??? Guess I've had practice waxing my car without getting it on the seats :-)
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Old January 5, 2013, 07:43 PM   #15
Bill DeShivs
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Everybody's a gunsmith!
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Old January 7, 2013, 04:20 PM   #16
southjk
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NevrDull is one of the best metal polishes I've used. I've never polished my gun with it but plan to.
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