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Old August 12, 2001, 08:50 AM   #1
tonyz
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PICTURE> Where would you crimp

The picture is of a copper plated 148Gr Wad Cutter. Where would you crimp, in the cannelure or seat the bullet flush with the case.

Thanks
Tony



Last edited by tonyz; August 12, 2001 at 09:50 AM.
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Old August 12, 2001, 09:04 AM   #2
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Can't see the picture, Tonyz
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Old August 12, 2001, 10:16 AM   #3
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it depends

On what pistol or wheelgun you're going to fire it in. In a revolver it won't make much difference, a semi auto can be fussy for feeding if the lead is left sticking out, has to have a heavy crimp over the first driving band to feed.
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Old August 12, 2001, 10:55 AM   #4
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The factory wadcutters I have seen are crimped over the forward part of the bullet, not in a groove. So that's what I do when I load wadcutters, but I haven't given it much thought. Actually I don't see why the the groove would be a problem if you wanted longer length.
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Old August 12, 2001, 10:56 AM   #5
tonyz
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Snuffy

I shoot revolvers. This type of bullet is one of my favorite. I usually shoot barry's WC's or Rainer WC's. They are the same on both ends flat with no cannelure no groves at all. I seat them flush with the case. They give me the most accurate load I have yet to try.I use 3.5Gr of U.Clays under the 148gr WC.

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Tony
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Last edited by tonyz; August 13, 2001 at 08:10 AM.
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Old August 12, 2001, 08:20 PM   #6
Southla1
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I am like the others here. If it would be shot out of my revolvers it is crimped on the front groove. If it will be shot in my S&W Mod. 52 it is going to have to be seated way down in the case where that lil point is flush with the case or seated upside down. That is the only way they will fit in the magazine.
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Old August 12, 2001, 10:30 PM   #7
labgrade
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Revolver guy here. I'd crimp this one right at your left-most "crimp" line as indicated in photo. Make the crimp roll right over the bullet radius at that same spot - not into the bullet, but just over/right at it & leave the truncated cone sticking out of the case. 'Course, as mention, you could shoot this one "backwards."

Don't "get" why this one has such a leading profile, as all WCs shoot just fine as a straight cylinder. Nothing the matter with whatever floats a boat, just "curious" is all.

Curious as to what you're paying for these. Speer/Hornady have WC/HBWCs at ~$7/250 - bulk, light-lubed, swagged lead that will shoot the eyes outa flies at 25 yds.
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Old August 12, 2001, 11:06 PM   #8
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Crimp

Crimp it over the nose.
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Old August 13, 2001, 05:50 AM   #9
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How about trying different places?
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Old August 13, 2001, 08:26 AM   #10
tonyz
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WESHOOT2: That is what I am trying now. yesterday I loaded up both types, crimped at the cannelure and crimped flush with the case.
Then headed to the range. With my Ruger Security Six, 6" Barrel I could not tell any differance. They were pretty darn accurate. Need to work with my powder load.
If I get a chance I will load some backwards and try them today.

Labgrade: This bullets were made by Hardcast Bullet Co. Out of Lancaster,Ca.
There is about .004-.005 of an inch of copper plateing. Also they are cast. Cost is $34.00 per 1000 for copper plated and $26.00 for lead cast.

Thanks All

TonyZ

Keep the advise comming!!
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Old August 14, 2001, 05:31 PM   #11
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I never worried about the groove, I just went by OAL, and let that dictate where it is crimped.
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Old August 17, 2001, 08:42 AM   #12
tonyz
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Update

I have expermented crimping at all three location mentioned, with the drimp at the Crimp Grove, Crimped with the bullet flush with the case, and loaded backwards flush with the case.
At first I thought that there was no real differance between the bullets crimped at the cannelure and crimped flush with the case. But after loading up some backwards
and rechecking the accuracy of all three differant crimps, There is a differance.The best group I got was with the Crimp at the crimp grove.

Has anyone seen or use this type of mold?
Or know about the bullet type. Why three lube groves a cannelure and a nib on the end?

Thanks,
Tony
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Old August 20, 2001, 08:43 AM   #13
tonyz
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Don

Yes it does look just like #50, only one thing, They say #50 is 146 Gr. All the one's I have weigh 149.5. I assume this could be due to the compounding of the lead.

Thanks,

Tony Z
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Old August 23, 2001, 06:54 AM   #14
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The difference in weight is probably due to the copper plating. If it were my ammo I would lightly crimp in the crimp groove. Just enough crimp to knock down the belling of the case mouth and allow easy chambering. This is assuming you have the proper case tension on the bullet. I seem to get the best accuracy in my .38s/.357s when I use this method.
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Old August 23, 2001, 08:38 AM   #15
tonyz
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frontlander

I am crimping at the crimp grove now but have been using a medium crimp with a Redding profile die.
I think I will use your advice, and just lightly crimp as you stated, just enough to remove the bell. Yes I have proper case tension.

Thanks for the info

Tony Z
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