|April 20, 2001, 11:26 AM||#1|
Join Date: April 13, 2000
Location: Northern Virginia
I got the Kasenit yesterday, and did a test run with it. I hardened a common nail. Wow! It really worked.
Couple of questions about rehardening the sear seat area on my friend's S&W revolver...
1. What's the best way to heat sink the part to keep it from getting too hot where I don't want it? I'm thinking of using a couple of pieces of oversized sheet copper and holding the whole schmear with an old channel locks.
2. How many times should I repeat the hardening process for a sear seat? Once? Twice? More?
3. What's the best way to quench? Straight water? Demineralized water? Oil? Water with a float layer of oil?
4. After hardening and quenching, how much redressing of the part will I have to do, if any?
"The gift which I am sending you is called a dog, and is in fact the most precious and valuable possession of mankind" -Theodorus Gaza
Baby Jesus cries when the fat redneck doesn't have military-grade firepower.
|April 21, 2001, 07:04 AM||#2|
Join Date: October 12, 1998
Location: Earlington KY
1) Copper should work. I usually clamp the parts between two pieces of 3/8" flat stock. Anything to draw the heat away from the rest of the part.
2) I haven't found it necessary to repeat. I always dunk the prepped parts in the Kasenite instead of sprinkling. That seems to make them a little harder.
3) I use 5W motor oil as a quench.
4) You should have very little dressing to do. Prep the part prior to treating.
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