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Old June 4, 2014, 09:45 PM   #26
JasoninSD
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I got one of the Prochronos probably ten or more years ago. Turned out to be one of the worst buys I ever made. Not because it does not work but because it gave me definitive proof that my 7 STW was giving me velocities similar to a 280 Rem while burning a lot more powder. My disappointment subsided as I found a buyer for the STW.

Other than that, I have been happy with the Prochrono. I have used it to measure velocities with bows/arrows down to about 150 fps and rifle rounds over 3000 fps. The accuracy and repeatability has always seemed good. The only problem I had is once I managed to switch it from FPS to M(eters)PS. It really had me scratching my head for a while trying to figure out why I was only getting velocities about 1/3 of what I was expecting.

Jason
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Old June 5, 2014, 09:45 AM   #27
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Armed_Chicagoan,

You are the official GP. Let us know how it goes!
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Old June 7, 2014, 01:37 PM   #28
Fullthrottle
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Thanks a ton for all the info folks! I have a bunch more research to do now.



On a side note, I don't need all that fancy stuff on a chronograph......I don't have a smart phone!
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Old June 12, 2014, 09:15 PM   #29
Armed_Chicagoan
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OK, went to the range yesterday to try out the Caldwell Ballistic Chronograph. Try as I did I could not get it to connect to my Galaxy S3, it kept losing the connection. After half an hour of screwing around with it I decided to just record the results the old fashioned way with pen and paper.

All my readings were about what I expected them to be, Russian milsurp 7.62x54R averaged 2,692fps from my m91/30. .40 S&W 180gr Speer Gold Dots averaged 922fps from my Beretta PX4 Compact, while Corbon 165gr JHPs lived up to their reputation and averaged 1227fps from the same gun, actually higher than the 1150fps claimed on the box.

But things got weird when I tested rounds from my Taurus TCP both precision One XTP and PMC FMJ were registering above 1200fps, which can't possibly be accurate. However, when I was testing those rounds the skys changed from cloudy/overcast to bright and sunny. The manual says to use it in shadow on sunny days, so maybe that was what was giving those results? Anyone here have experience like this using a chrono on a sunny day?

Anyway, tonight I tried connecting the chrono to my girlfriend's phone (same model as mine) to see if it connected to that, and it did. So I figured I probably had an issue with my headphone jack (the cord plugs into the headphone jack), so I sprayed some electronics cleaner into my headphone jack and then stuck the brush in there and twisted it around. After waiting a few minutes for it to dry I connected it to the chrono again and it finally made a good connection to my phone!

So now that my connection issues have been resolved my only concern with this chrono is the crazy readings it was giving from my TCP, no way .380 out of a micro pistol has that kind of velocity!

And for the record I did not shoot any part of the chrono.
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Old June 13, 2014, 09:55 AM   #30
Armed_Chicagoan
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Actually I just noticed the battery in the chrono was very low, that probably had more to do with the crazy readings at the end than the sun did. It was on for nearly 3 hours.
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Old June 13, 2014, 10:03 AM   #31
sm
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Allow me to add something, regardless of make or model of Chrono.

Don't shoot the darn thing.

And no, we will not ask me how I come to this conclusion...
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Old June 13, 2014, 10:21 AM   #32
totaldla
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Did you forget the skyscreens on the Caldwell Ballistic Chrono when it was sunny?
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Old June 13, 2014, 11:40 AM   #33
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AC,

Thanks for the follow-up. Yes, light conditions can cause trouble with ground light glint off the bullets and other factors. Bigger guns need more distance. I use 15 feet, but that's to match SAAMI standards and be good with most rifles (though some of the heavies need the sky screens as far as 20 feet out to avoid all muzzle blast effects). For handguns, I would use at least 10 feet, regardless of whether the instructions say less is OK.

Get some tall tomato stakes or fiberglass marker stakes from Lowe's. Set them up around the chronograph and a couple feet in front and behind it, and drape a heavy plastic transparent drop cloth over them. That will reduce the light (it casts a shadow) and diffuse the light to the ground near the machine. Main drawback is wind will blow it off if you don't tie it to the stakes.
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Old June 13, 2014, 01:44 PM   #34
Armed_Chicagoan
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I was using the sunscreens, and the chrono was 10-12' from the muzzle. Since it had no issues with the Mosin from that distance I doubt muzzle blast from the TCP was causing it.

But at this point I'm thinking that the low battery was the probable cause.

Unclenick - thanks for the suggestion!
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Old June 13, 2014, 08:13 PM   #35
RC20
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James,

Good shot, (well shots) its really hard to hit them in the same place. You should get on the professional circuit! (and just kidding)

I grazed mine on the top front (missed the rear or at that angle it would have been a goner). Like cycles, there are those who have laid em down and those who are going to.


Quote:
I have the same model as the one recommended by Nukeranger.

I like it.

My only grips is a few Err (error) readings now and again, but that could have been due to my shooting too close to the chrono.

The only mishaps have been the fact that I have shot one of the disperser rods with a .44 Mag.
Twice.
The same one.

It straightened out OK from an impressive 78 degree kink.

That also flipped the chrono right off its stand, tripod and all, and it still worked fine...
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Old June 19, 2014, 04:53 PM   #36
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I like my Oehler 35P. The only way to shoot it would be an ND on the bench.
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