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Old March 23, 2014, 12:28 PM   #51
JD0x0
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I prefer to mechanically clean my gun as little as possible. As someone else had said, let the chemicals do the work. IMO carbon is the easy stuff, usually comes right out with a bore snake, or something simple. Jacket fouling is harder to deal with, but a good chemical cleaner that wont hurt the barrel is the best solution, IMO. With the right stuff for the job, you wont have to do much except wipe the residue out.

Not only is it easier than using power tools, under most circumstances it's also much safer on the bore and crown.

I know lots of people frown upon the bore snakes. I clean my gun with one often enough (never more than 20 rounds between cleanings) that it'll actually do the whole job, with the right chemicals and under most circumstances doesn't need a full cleaning kit. I get on cleaning early enough and often enough, that most of the stuff gets wiped out easily with the snake, and solution(s).
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Old March 23, 2014, 02:36 PM   #52
Bill DeShivs
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In theory, velocity starts dropping as soon as the bullet leaves the muzzle.
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Old March 25, 2014, 12:12 PM   #53
Guv
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I like the idea of a recip-saw myself!
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Old March 25, 2014, 09:11 PM   #54
monkeyfist
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"Nylon / plastics can be fairly abrasive. Think of ScotchBrite or BearTex pads - those are made from nylon and are the equal of steel wool"

I don't know about BearTex, but some ScotchBrites are made with aluminum oxide, which is one of the hardest substances in the world.

edit: it looks like BearTex are nylon woven with abrasive material (my guess would be aluminum oxide)

Nylon by itself will not scratch metal.

Last edited by monkeyfist; March 25, 2014 at 09:17 PM.
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Old March 25, 2014, 09:31 PM   #55
monkeyfist
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"The feedback I am getting seems to be-
Bits of copper fowling and stuff can imbed itself in the soft nylon bristles making it more abrasive than a metal brush?

I respect everyone's passion for the subject."

I agree that you're probably right that nothing more abrasive than metal will get into metal and wear the metal away.

The ferrous argument doesn't make much sense to me. Ferrous just means that it contains iron. You won't likely be picking up iron bits in your nylon bristles, and if you do it'll be negligible and not worth the worry.

I'm betting you can easily spin that nylon bristle brush through your barrel without worries for years. I've used one on my teeth. And spinning it at high revolutions is just going to wear down the nylon brush well before you have to worry about it wearing down your hardened barrel.
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Old April 11, 2014, 11:15 PM   #56
Jim567
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After the bore is mopped with Hoppes the only visible stuff is a small amount of carbon at the bottom of the lands and copper tracing on the face of the rifling.
Nothing horribly abrasive such as "grains of sand".
None of the popular gun shops around here had bore foam.
Walmart did . Gonna try some.
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Old April 11, 2014, 11:25 PM   #57
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Hmm. I'm intrigued. Can you post a pic of the drill with the brush attachment?
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Old April 11, 2014, 11:32 PM   #58
Jim567
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It was just a plastic Glock issued cleaning rod with the loop cut off.
And a Glock issued nylon brush.

Last edited by Jim567; April 11, 2014 at 11:40 PM.
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Old April 14, 2014, 12:04 AM   #59
DannyB1954
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If the bore was smooth like in a shotgun, a spinning brush would work well. In a barrel with rifling, it would have a tendency to not touch the low spots.
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Old April 14, 2014, 09:40 AM   #60
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If you folks search over in the gun smithing and handloading forums, you'll find a lot of cleaning chemistry and methods detailed. The main take-away is that modern cleaning chemicals introduced over the last ten to fifteen years have made brushing pretty completely unnecessary. The main problem is the average user either uses obsolete chemistry or just doesn't give the chemicals time to work. If you don't let them work five to twenty minutes, you are patching out unexpended chemical agent.

When you are cleaning multiple guns, the longer sit time is easy to achieve. You just go from one gun to the next, and pretty soon it's time to go back to the first gun.

20 minutes is about the longest most common bore cleaning chemicals keep working to any significant degree, but I've had Gunzilla keep penetrating and pulling deep carbon out a pitted bore (whose pits were glazed over with solid carbon) for several weeks. Same with Mobile 1 motor oil's detergent agents. On another track, Wipe Out's product called No Lead is the best lead remover, IMHO, and it has to sit 60 minutes. But the most common modern chemicals I use, like Boretech products or the KG products are normally fully expended within 20 minutes. They are most active during the first 5 minutes, so the 5 to 20 minute time frame is marks when it the time to patch them out or refresh the application if needed.

I've tried several systems, but here's what I do most of the time now: I carry a couple of pump sprayers to the range with me; one with Boretech Eliminator and the other with Gunzilla. For rifles, after they've cooled enough to keep my hand on the barrel, I pump a couple of squirts of Eliminator into the chamber with the muzzle is down. This is to let the product run down and wet the whole bore. I plug the chamber and bore and pack up and head for home. By the time I get home, unless it's a stubborn and very heavy fouling bore, the bore fouling is all dissolved or loose. I run a wet patch followed by a dry patch. Done.

Eliminator has excellent corrosion inhibitors and can be allowed to dry out in a bore. It's water-based and almost odorless, so my wife doesn't complain about the "smells" creeping up from the basement. But if I don't know when I'll shoot the gun again, I usually follow up with LPS-2 or other corrosion inhibiting oil.

For handguns, I carry a pump sprayer of Gunzilla and spray the bore and, after a heavy shooting session, will field strip and hit the rest of the mechanism with it while still at the range. I then put the gun in a plastic bag and head home. By the time I get there, all the fresh carbon comes off easily with a small rag or an old toothbrush wet with the same Gunzilla. Ed's Red or Mobile 1 also works for the home cleaning if you prefer them. The thing I like about Gunzilla is you can just wipe off the excess and it leaves a lubricating film that doesn't attract dust.

If the pistol bore has metal fouling, I clean the Gunzilla out with a short spray of carburetor cleaner or Bore Scrubber before applying a loose wet patch of KG-12 for copper or of No Lead for lead fouling. KG-12 sits 20 minutes. No Lead sits 60 minutes. A dry patch followed by a wet patch of Boretech Eliminator and 5 more minutes before a final dry patch. Done.

The reason for using Boretech Eliminator at the end is to get carbon that was under the metal fouling and to test for remaining copper. KG-12 does not turn blue or green as it eats copper. It just gets a sort of light orange-brown. What makes it great is it is both fast and has a huge capacity for dissolving copper. Eliminator does not have that sheer capacity, but it is also very fast and it does turn blue in the presence of copper, so it's a good indicator of the presence of copper. It's so fast, it will turn a patch light blue from attacking a brass jag just in the time it takes to push a patch through the bore. For that reason, Boretech sells special alloy jags (their Proof Positive line) that aren't attacked by their copper solvent products. I have those for rifle, but just use old Hoppe's plastic jags for handguns.

To clear up one point of confusion: Scotch-Brite and its imitators have abrasives intentionally bonded to their Nylon substrate fibers. That's why you can buy them in different grades from rough to polish. Plain Nylon will not abrade like Scotch-Brite does. Indeed, it's a popular material for plastic bearing bushings, such as are used on a number of rotary tumblers you can buy.
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