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Old October 9, 2013, 09:52 AM   #1
papadork
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Frame replacement on Kahr CM40

I replaced the slide stop spring on my CM40 and managed to strip the screw hole in the process. I contacted Kahr and they won't send me a new frame because the frames are serialized. Best part is, my LGS wants $30.00 to ship it for me and Kahr will charge $65.00 just to look at it. So, am already in to this repair $100.00 dollars and that's without actually replacing the frame. Does it make sense to spend, potentially, 100's of dollars to repair a gun that only cost $400.00 to begin with? Or, should I sell this stupid thing for parts?

Any advise would be appreciated, thanks.
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Old October 9, 2013, 11:55 AM   #2
JustinBiscuit
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Why pay someone to ship it? Just take it Fedex

I would get it fixed. My guess its less expensive then $400 for a new one.
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Old October 9, 2013, 12:57 PM   #3
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Yes, I did find a FedEx store in my area. I guess I will send it back and hope for the best. Maybe they will warranty it since the slide stop spring came loose in the first place.
Thanks.
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Old October 9, 2013, 01:04 PM   #4
dean1818
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Kahrs are nice little guns but......

The slide stop spring is an extremely weak design on kahrs

Its plastic and be stripped easily, as well as having an exposed spring.....
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Old October 9, 2013, 01:20 PM   #5
Skans
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Is there even a "fix" for a stripped screw in a plastic frame? I'm leaning toward parting it out, unless Kahr will replace the frame at cost.

IMHO, bad design. That screw hole should be reinforced with steel. Steel screw + plastic in a critical area of a gun = disaster.
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Old October 9, 2013, 01:21 PM   #6
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Yup,
I was thinking I might trade this in for an Kahr MK40. Still have a tiny gun for that much bang. Plus, I won't strip the screw on the metal frame. I suppose I can get used to the extra weight.
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Old October 9, 2013, 01:23 PM   #7
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Is there even a "fix" for a stripped screw in a plastic frame? I'm leaning toward par

Parting it out won't be easy. Don't think these are very popular in my area.
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Old October 9, 2013, 01:28 PM   #8
Wreck-n-Crew
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Before you go shipping it back you might want to check out a local Gun Smith. May save you some time and money.

There are methods for refilling the hole with polymer. Thereafter a drill tapping to get you back in order. Not every Smith will be able to use this method,but may have other options.

Maybe a thread insert. I am not familiar with the exact location and visibility of the screw is after assembly, But the location might afford an easier fix.

The main thing is, they can give you options before you go dropping too much money into it.

Also I would have figured Kahr would have fixed this without charge. Maybe call them back and try to get a different tech/rep. I can't tell you how manytimes you will get someone on the phone who doesn't give you the right answers.
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Old October 9, 2013, 01:29 PM   #9
Skans
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Is there any way to fill the hole and and re-tap it? I'm wondering if a metal insert can be pressed into that hole if its widened out a bit?

(W-n-C must have been writing the same time I was, but beat me to the punch!)
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Old October 9, 2013, 01:30 PM   #10
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First thing I'd do is as Kahr if there's a larger thread screw available for this case or ask how do they fix this problem. Surely filling the hole with a quality epoxy or such and re-drilling a pilot hole it is worth a try. Sounds like a fixable problem to me. You might be able to even push some material into the hole ala stippling a grip, using a wood burner.
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Old October 9, 2013, 01:31 PM   #11
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Quote:
Is there any way to fill the hole and and re-tap it? I'm wondering if a metal insert can be pressed into that hole if its widened out a bit?
We must have been responding @ the same time!...lol
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Old October 9, 2013, 01:31 PM   #12
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I tried the local gunsmith with no luck. he told me to send it back to Kahr. I call Kahr again and lean on them for warranty work. Thanks.
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Old October 9, 2013, 02:22 PM   #13
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The option of a threaded insert would be a good choice if you decide to repair it yourself providing it's visibility is minimal or the screw head is wide enough to cover the insert.

As far as refilling the hole with polymer and re-threading, it is easy to mess it up if you are not careful. I would not recommend doing it on a gun frame when you can practice it on something else before you actually do a repair that may cost you big time. That is providing you have little choices.

I don't recommend anyone do what I do and anyone that does so must do so at thier own risk! If you think you would like to try to do so here is what I have done a few times with great success:

I have refilled and tapped holes in polymer before. The trick is in tools and method.

Using a good hard Polymer (not from a cheap plastic Chinese toy,..too soft)I covered the back of the hole with a small piece of metal (in this case a shim) and clamped it in place. Using a thimble locked in a small pair of vice grips I melted the polymer with a furnace lighter. (you can use a propane torch, just not it will get real hot real fast, keep it further away from flame).

Paying close attention to the liquidity, and not letting it get so hot it would catch fire (stinks bad and fumes are bad, do it outdoors if possible) I slowly heated the plastic. When I achieved a good melt I began to pre-heat the hole. This was the hard part, Heating it enough so that it just gets some light surface melt.

Poured the hot plastic in. (after a few seconds test for firming, smudging and gouging is easy)Then using the flat of a butter knife I leveled the surface, keeping contact within the repair as much as possible.

After cooling for a bit I proceded to drill and tap. Making sure the drill angle was straight as possible. Carefull not to wiggle I went in once wit the tap. Screw went in perfect and problem solved.

Note: Being able to mimic the texture of the frame will not be part of the process and if your repair is visible, well you get the idea.

But you can use a round, flat metal (such as the flat end of a steel rod) to print a smooth surface, centered with the hole. Heat it and stamp it to give a manufactured look.
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Old October 9, 2013, 06:19 PM   #14
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The screw hole is easily repaired. Just fill the screw hole in the plastic frame with epoxy putty. After the epoxy sets, drill a relief hole and use the existing screw to re-tap the hole. Then, carefully remove the screw and let the epoxy cure for 24 hrs.

Let the epoxy sit for an hour or two, before drilling and re-tapping. Don't install the screw right away, as you will then glue the screw in place.

There is a type of such epoxy putty which is made for plastic and will adhere perfectly to the Kahr plastic frame. It is called "Plastic Weld"....made by JB Weld. I use it often for all sorts of things - I used this exact stuff to build palm swells onto the sides of the grip on my CM9.
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Old October 10, 2013, 07:00 AM   #15
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Thanks everyone. Helpful posts as always.
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