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Old August 7, 2013, 03:23 PM   #1
rem44m
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454 Ruger Redhawk crimp jump

I'm wondering if any of you big bore enthusiasts have any input on factory ammo for the 7.5 in Redhawk while in Grizz country. I have a lot of experience with big bores and recoil so recoil is not something I'm particularly concerned with.

Most of my concerns come from crimp jump on the 454 which is uncharted territory for me. All the crimp jump info I find is related to the Alaskan and I don't know how this applies to the 7.5 inch Redhawk.

I bought a box of 335 grain hard cast hunter loads from Corbon so if any of you have experience with this load/gun combo I'd be interested to hear. Otherwise I guess I will have to wait till I get the chance to go light some off and see if the OAL changes.
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Old August 7, 2013, 03:36 PM   #2
James K
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I know of no specific information, but here is a good test. Load 6 rounds. Fire three. Mark the unfired rounds and the chambers with a felt tip marker, Check the unfired rounds; if they show no sign of bullet jump, put them back in the same chambers. Remove the fired cases and reload those chambers. Fire the same three chambers, but not the marked ones. Repeat several times. If the rounds you don't fire stay crimped and the bullet stays in place, that ammo is OK. If the unfired rounds show bullet jump or actually hang up the gun, change ammo or reloading techniques.

Jim
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Old August 7, 2013, 04:06 PM   #3
rem44m
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I'm going to try that. Thank you!
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Old August 7, 2013, 05:01 PM   #4
BIG P
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I guess I've been really lucky been using SRH 454 7.5 for a few years for Bear & hogs with a lot of different ammo. I've never had a single jumper even at the range shot some pretty hot & heavy loads, I'm talkin knock the rubber off the grips recoil still no jumpers hope you have the same luck. Love my SRH 454
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Old August 7, 2013, 06:22 PM   #5
rem44m
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Big P

That is comforting thank you. I hope my experience is like yours.
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Old August 12, 2013, 07:17 PM   #6
Poindexter
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My crimp jump test for handloads when I used to own a 500 SW and was using jacketed bullets was to measure one round real real careful like and write the COAL directly on the brass.

Mine was a five shot, so load it up and fire four, leave the measured one unfired, load it back up and fire four more.

If the COAL didn't change on the one that had been around twice but not yet fired, I figured I was using just enough crimp.

I have zero experience with .454. In 45 Colt I am running cast only, doing fine with just getting the outer edge of the brass flush with the surface of the bullet right behind the front band.

Even top end 32k psi redhawk only cast loads are doing fine crimped as preceding paragraph.
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Old August 12, 2013, 07:38 PM   #7
codefour
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I have had crimp-jump shooting my SRH 7.5". The bullets did not get far enough out to prevent the cylinder from rotating but I could clearly see a few had jumped a bit.

I was shooting a XTP, 300 grain Mag bullet over a stout dose of H110 (I cant recall the exact charge but it was a middle charge per the Hodgden web site.) I was using a very strong roll crimp. It looked more like a fold crimp into the cannelure. I followed the Speer manuels directions for the "big boomers". I had used this similar crimp on my 460 XVR using a 300 grain XTP Mag and never had a problem.

I am going to try 2400 next and a MBC 300 grain slug. I do not need 1500 fps anyway to kill hogs and deer.
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Old August 13, 2013, 10:04 AM   #8
Salmoneye
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James K gave excellent advice...
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Old August 15, 2013, 04:08 PM   #9
feets
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Never had a problem with my 7.5" SRH.
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Old August 15, 2013, 08:48 PM   #10
Lost Sheep
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Thanks for asking our advice.

The heavier the gun, the less "crimp jumping" is a problem. (The S&W and Taurus "Scandium" and Titanium revolvers are even worse, even in .357 magnum, than the Ruger Alaskan.)

The lighter the bullet, the less "crimp jumping" is a problem.

(Of course) the lower the power level, the less "crimp jumping" is a problem.

The greater the bullet tension (heavy roll crimp, or, better still, a lot of grip of the brass on the bullet through friction), the less "crimp jumping" is a problem.

So, use a smaller belling mandrel when you bell the case mouth during the loading process (if you reload) and carefully consider whether or not to use the post-sizing ring in the Lee Factory Crimp Die. Also, be aware that giving too much of a roll crimp can loosen the friction grip of the brass on the bullet.

Good luck.

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Old September 5, 2013, 10:42 AM   #11
rem44m
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I'm having troubles posting a picture.

For those interested, the results of my experimenting can be found here.

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=725011

Very unacceptable if you ask me. I could barely get through a cylinder full without them jamming things up.
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Old September 5, 2013, 11:21 AM   #12
Magnum Wheel Man
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... & if you're worried about it for use against dangerous game... I recommend "stiff arming" the gun... I had some that didn't jump crimp when fired "soft", but that jumped when stiff arming the gun, so those were really close to jumping crimp... here's me thread on it...

You're gonna whack yourself in the head with that thing...

http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=273411

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