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Old August 14, 2013, 04:46 PM   #1
chaz12
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1872 open top wedge screw problem

I just got an open top revolver and I am having a problem with the wedge screw.

The screw is turned so the flat is about 90 deg counterclockwise from the wedge. In other words to get the flat facing the wedge I will need to rotate the screw clockwise 90 deg or counterclockwise 270 deg.

Am I right that the screw has a standard thread that would tighten clockwise? So I should be trying to loosen counterclockwise? Problem of course is that the screw will not budge either way, and like all these Italian screws it deforms if you put any force at all on it.

Other than heating the screw and using penetrating oil, any other things I could try to get this screw out?

Thanks

Chaz
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Old August 14, 2013, 05:02 PM   #2
Doc Hoy
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Chaz

Standard thread direction.

Get you some PB Blaster at the car parts store. Douche it down with that and let it sit for a bit. If you have a set of jewelers files you can dress up the slot. As a last resort you might try sticking it in the oven at about 275. Take the wooden grips off first. (I prolly dint need to say that but just in case.)

Or

Send it to me. I promise I will give it a good home.

;o)
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Old August 14, 2013, 09:13 PM   #3
44 Dave
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Does that wedge not have the catch spring. There is a guy I shoot with who has one, the screw has to be turned to the flat to remove the wedge.
Yes that PB Blaster, just used today getting a nipple out of an antique .30 squirrel rifle.
You may want to tap the wedge also if the screw is against it.
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Old August 14, 2013, 10:14 PM   #4
mykeal
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Why do you want to remove the screw? It's there to keep the wedge with the barrel assembly. I've never had to remove one in 35 years.
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Old August 14, 2013, 10:15 PM   #5
chaz12
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A little helpful information for first time open top owners:

This problem was partly my own making. As one of the other posters mentioned, the wedge and the screw have to work together. I think I had jammed the screw and wedge, creating a binding situation. Once I figured that out and moved the wedge just a tad the screw turned with just a little heat from a soldering iron. Not only that, but I find in the box that Uberti (or the previous owner) had provided a nice new backup wedge screw to replace the one I damaged while trying to remove the wedge. It's nice when something works out this easily on a firearm for a change.

And it is also true that the screw doesn't have to be removed... you just have to be able to turn it so the flat side lines up with the notch in the wedge.

Chaz
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Old August 15, 2013, 04:34 AM   #6
Hawg
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Quote:
Why do you want to remove the screw? It's there to keep the wedge with the barrel assembly. I've never had to remove one in 35 years.
Me either but the open top cartridge guns are a little different. They have a notch the screw head sits in with a flat spot on one side of the screw to allow it to be removed.
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Old August 15, 2013, 06:52 AM   #7
44 Dave
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Me either but the open top cartridge guns are a little different. They have a notch the screw head sits in with a flat spot on one side of the screw to allow it to be removed
Yes the one side of the wedge is behind the ejector on the conversion. The wedge does not have the catch spring, turning the screw flat side is the release.
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Old August 15, 2013, 07:49 AM   #8
45 Dragoon
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Yes, what Hawg said. I think that system is the best and don't understand why Colt didn't change the replacement wedges to the "solid notched wedge with flat side screw". Easier to manufacture and the wedge is trapped so it can't come out (or allow an ill fitting barrel assy to shake loose and fly off . . . .don't ask). I change all my wedges to a captured wedge (I reconfigure the norm. wedge) and it works very well. Barrel/cyl gaps stay in tolerance better (wedge can't move in either direction).
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Old August 23, 2013, 05:28 PM   #9
newfrontier45
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If you are using a properly sized screwdriver, it shouldn't be a problem. I believe it's the same as for the hammer spring.


Quote:
I've never had to remove one in 35 years.
Then you've never removed the barrel from an 1871-1872 Open Top. It's a requirement on these guns.
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Old August 23, 2013, 08:19 PM   #10
mykeal
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Quote:
Then you've never removed the barrel from an 1871-1872 Open Top.
Yep. That's correct.
Quote:
It's a requirement on these guns.
I learned something, thank you.
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Old August 30, 2013, 01:00 PM   #11
barnowl12
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'72 open tops'

Uberti packs an extra wedge screw in every box. I guess because they booger so easily.
Barn Owl
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Old August 30, 2013, 03:55 PM   #12
maillemaker
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I just bought an 1860 Army and did not realize that the screw is there so that the wedge can be partially removed just enough to disengage it from the arbor.

My screw head does not have flats on it.

Presumably you just have to somehow depress the spring on the nose of the wedge and tap it back through?

I've seen youtube videos where the wedge is pushed out with finger force. Not this puppy - gotta tap it with a piece of wood.

Steve
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Old August 30, 2013, 06:06 PM   #13
44 Dave
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Just did some work on my latest open top, which came with a marred up screw.
I remove the wedge screw and and file the head to give more clearance. After I get the fit to satisfy me I heat the screw a dull red then quench in oil. Looks good as new!
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Old August 31, 2013, 07:17 PM   #14
Hawg
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Quote:
I just bought an 1860 Army and did not realize that the screw is there so that the wedge can be partially removed just enough to disengage it from the arbor.

My screw head does not have flats on it.

Presumably you just have to somehow depress the spring on the nose of the wedge and tap it back through?

I've seen youtube videos where the wedge is pushed out with finger force. Not this puppy - gotta tap it with a piece of wood.
It will loosen up after it been removed/installed a few times. Just don't drive it in too deep. A new one should barely be past flush on the off side. No need to depress the spring or remove the screw.
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