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Old March 13, 2013, 06:10 AM   #1
BoogieMan
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Join Date: April 4, 2012
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1911 FTE problems

I have a Kimber Target II SS in 9mm. I had a few failure to lock open on the last round issues that went away around 4-600 rnds. When I got up to the 1100 or so count it came back intermittently. Careful cleaning and living with the issue kept me shooting well into the 2000's before I got fed up with the problem. I was also noticing that the slide was closing slow under fire. I could actually see it hanging before it would shut. Figured it must be time for new recoil spring. Changed the recoil spring to a wolf progressive #14 (factory spec) and while I was at it I changed the slide lock to a WC trying to get some change. I used light lithium grease (sprayed onto cardboard then dabbed on with a cocktail stray) on the slide and link. Went to range. I got about 5 shots in and FTE. Racked it, fired, FTE. Changed ammo (I was shooting reloads) Racked it, FTE, again, FTE. So I assumed the grease was an issue. Field stripped, wiped everything out and re-assembled dry. FTE, rack, FTE, etc... I used 125gr LRN reloads over 4gr of HP238, 115gr Federal ball, and some HP speer +P stuff. Results were the same across the board.
Note: A few weeks back I was given some Blazer alum that had been wet. I fired a few and the cases were blowing apart. Stopped shooting them. Gun was filthy but appeared undamaged.

I am waiting on a spring pack from #10-#15 and I plan to start with a fresh #14 and step down until I get a working gun.

Has anyone had any similar issues? Any other ideas what I should be doing or trying? Weather is getting nice and I want to be shooting steel comps, this gun isnt up to the job.
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Old March 13, 2013, 08:40 AM   #2
1911Tuner
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Details

First we have to determine whether the E means Extract or Eject.
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Old March 13, 2013, 09:10 AM   #3
BoogieMan
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Sorry. The E is eject. The cases are pulling back and when the slide moves far enough back I will get a stove pipe. I have never had a extractor/ejector problem. All my issues (IMO) have revolved around not getting the slide all the way back, including the failure to lock open on final round.
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Old March 13, 2013, 09:20 AM   #4
1911Tuner
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Fail to Eject

Could be short-cycling. Weak ammo or oversprung slide, coupled with a weak grip can do it. That would be the first place to look.

A guy came by here with a 9mm Colt Combat Commander with the same issues as you're having. The first thing I noticed was that the recoil spring was way yonder too heavy. I cut a 14-pound Government Model spring down to 24.5 coils and his ejection problems disappeared, even though it was still a mite bit oversprung.

Note that cutting a GM-length spring to work in a Commander will only work in Commanders with the standard recoil system. Bushingless/reverse plug setups will not work, nor will it fly with Colt Officer's Models.
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Old March 23, 2013, 04:22 PM   #5
BoogieMan
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For anyone who may be interested. I am reasonable sure I got the problem resolved. I did a careful cleaning and lubed with frog lube. Re-installed the #14 spring and functioned well but still had the failure to lock on last rnd. Dropped back to the #13 and it functions perfectly. Shot both factory and reloads with "0" issues.
Learned that I will not use lithium spray grease and the factory Kimber #14 is probably much closer to the Wolf #13. My kimber is fast and reliable once more. 2" groups at 15yds.
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