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Old February 16, 2013, 07:27 PM   #1
deerslayer303
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I DO NOT, like the new style LEE Molds!

These new molds are retarded! Lee should have left well enough alone! First of all, I prepped the mold as per LEE's instructions. I even took it one step further and put graphite on the top of the mold to try to keep the sprue plate from galling the top of the mold blocks. Well after only about 300 round ball cast the top of the molds block are galled. I kept the sprue plate pivot and locating pins lubed with beeswax. The sprue plate CONTINUOUSLY loosened up! And in one of the round ball cavities there is a rough tool mark almost looks like where the sprue was cut, just a rough finished mold and the quality of this one SUCKS! Then the icing on the cake today was one of the locating pins fell out. The old style LEE molds worked PERFECT, I have some that are still going strong after TONS of castings, no galling etc. I'm going to order a LYMAN mold RIGHT NOW!!!

Thanks for listening to my rant. I feel better now I got that off my chest. I do realize that its a 20 dollar mold, but still when I get in the groove making boolits I don't like to have to stop after I got everything set up and running.
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Old February 16, 2013, 07:31 PM   #2
TXGunNut
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Step up to the 6 cav moulds, I only bought the 2 cav mould to make a few "samples". Big difference in quality, even tho I found my 2 cav moulds quite acceptable.
I'd send it back, pretty sure they'll make it right. We all make mistakes sometimes.
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Old February 17, 2013, 07:50 AM   #3
steve4102
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I have a New style .401 SWC mold and I love it. Much better than my old style.
Call Lee and send it back, let us know how they handled it.
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Old February 18, 2013, 01:54 AM   #4
chris in va
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Interesting.

All Lee molds I've bought the past couple years have galled the aluminum, had loosened sprue plates and a couple dropped locating pins.

Sounds normal to me.
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Old February 18, 2013, 05:10 PM   #5
snuffy
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First, throw away the lee instructions. Forget about smoking the molds, and forget about using boolit lube to lubricate the mold or sprue pivot.

Go to the automotive store nearest you, look for synthetic 2 cycle oil. Buy a-----well the smallest quantity you can find. Use that to lube your molds, ALL MOLDS, not just lee. The pivot for the sprue plate, the locating pins for the blocks, and once the mold is hot, the underside of the sprue plate. The synthetic 2 cycle oil is the same stuff that bullshop sells as bullplate sprueplate lube.

That would prevent the galling, and the sticking of the guide pins that caused them to fall out. The boolit lube they say to use BURNS! Then it results in a sticky mess when it's done burning. The 2 cycle lube is a high temp lube, it's supposed to lubricate even at high temp, and does NOT turn to ash.
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Old February 18, 2013, 06:01 PM   #6
m&p45acp10+1
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I agree with the lubing with something other than bullet lube. I use Mobil 1. I have a case of it on hand for my truck. (92 Mazda with 345,000 Problem Free miles, though it is near time to do a break job.) I use a pipe cleaner, I preheat the mold on a gas stove. I dip the pipe cleaner, and then squeeze off the excess. I lube under the sprue plate, and I Lube the pins, and pivot point. It smoke for a couple of minutes, and is then good for the duration of my casting session.

Ok now back to casting. Need more .358 158 grain SWC for the weekend. It is casting weather. 75 and sunny with a wind chill of awsome.
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Old February 18, 2013, 11:29 PM   #7
chris in va
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Quote:
That would prevent the galling, and the sticking of the guide pins that caused them to fall out
Well, the pins fall out because they're not properly staked. I make it a routine to take a drift and punch a better stake on all new molds.
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Old February 20, 2013, 01:08 PM   #8
deerslayer303
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Thanks for all the replies Gentlemen! I will remember the 2cycle oil Idea for the new mold. I'm going to contact Lee today and see what they say. I have put the locating pin back in and cleaned it up. But I can't do anything about the machining mark (makes that side of the ball look like a cut sprue) in one side of the cavities.
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Old February 20, 2013, 03:58 PM   #9
Wallyl
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Lee Mold galling

I use a small candle on the sprew plate screw. After so many casts, with bullets in eth mold--touch it lightly to the top of the sprew plate screw..it gives enough to last quite awhile and it will not contaminate the cavities.

I will try some syn oil next time with mine. Syn oil doesn't breakdown under high temperatures... With the candle wax, it will evaporate without leaving a residue, so you have to replenish it, after so many casting cycles. No big deal IMHO.
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Old February 21, 2013, 03:03 PM   #10
chris in va
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Oh trust me, syn motor oil definitely leaves a residue and smells terrible as it burns off. I'm considering that 2-cycle oil suggestion.
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Old February 22, 2013, 04:51 PM   #11
deerslayer303
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FIXED IT!

Well I got the Lee mold whipped in shape. I just wasn't bothering sending a 20 dollar mold back and going through the hassle. So, I got some coarse and fine lapping compound. Starting with course and following with fine, I took some 000 steel wool and tore me off a little piece. Then dabbed a little lapping compound in the cavities, then with a #2 pencil (new one) I used the eraser end to grip the steel wool and i went to spinning it between my palms, like you would if you were lapping a valve into a head. Did it to both halves of the mold and VIOLA polished and machine mark free cavities. I'm sure the other methods are faster but hey it took me NO set up time with this method. I then removed the sprue plate and added a little fine compound to the shoulder of the sprue plate set screw and with a properly fitting screw driver I went to town working the screw back and forth then doing complete turns. This polished the shoulder of the screw and the hole in the sprue plate. Now the sprue plate glides on the screw like BUTTAH!! Then with a little fine compound on a piece of steel wool, I polished the under side of the sprue plate and the top of the mold blocks. With everything back together and a lite coat of 2 cycle synthetic motor oil it works smooth as silk. Can't wait to see how it does in a future casting session.
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Last edited by deerslayer303; February 22, 2013 at 04:58 PM.
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Old February 22, 2013, 06:31 PM   #12
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Now, hold on!!!!......

Quote:
FIXED IT!
Well I got the Lee mold whipped in shape.

Let's not rush to hasty conclusions just yet! Perhaps you'd better send me a box-or-so of them round balls when you first pour a few pounds and let me test 'em out, just to make sure.
I'd hate to see that you thought you fixed it, only to find out later that you were mistaken.
It's the least I can do for a fellow BP shooter/caster.
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Old February 22, 2013, 06:37 PM   #13
deerslayer303
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Absolutely
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Old March 14, 2013, 01:30 AM   #14
IROCZ
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Well? Did ya fix it?
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