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Old April 16, 2014, 09:10 AM   #1
Lonestarsun
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schofield model three find?

Hello, first time post, I need some information and i'm hoping I can get it here... I found a model three Smith and Wesson Schofield it has been left to the rusty world but I can still see the serial number and the "US" stamp on the butt it has the markings on the sides of the pistol as well I will try to include a couple photos but they might not come through the serial is 3794 and i appreciate any info anyone might have for me! thanks in advance!
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Last edited by Lonestarsun; April 16, 2014 at 12:31 PM. Reason: photos added
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Old April 16, 2014, 11:12 AM   #2
PetahW
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Welcome to TFL !

The Schofield was produced in two versions, the First Model Schofield and the Second Model Schofield.

The First Model Schofield has a latch configuration that is rather pointed at the top and has a circle around the screw head at the bottom; the Second Model latch has a large raised circle at the top of the latch

Judging by it's SN, that Schofield is apparently a 2nd Model, and should have the issue 7" bbl, although after the Spanish-American War of 1898, the US Gov't sold their surplus Schofields to wholesalers/etc - some of whom shortened the bbl's to 5" and/or nickel plated them for commercial resale.


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Old April 16, 2014, 11:54 AM   #3
Lonestarsun
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thank you!

appreciate it petahw I have found that information as well however the main thing I'd like to know is the year it was most likely built and any history on but I'm coming up short of reference material but don't be offended I really appreciate your time and effort and I'm glad i have someone that agrees with what I found
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Old April 16, 2014, 12:21 PM   #4
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I didn't get, from your OP, that you wanted the date of manufacture.

The S&W Customer Service TN is (800) 331-0852, # 7.

The CS person can usually tell you the DOM (if called during business hours), or you can request / get the gun lettered by S&W for a $35.00 fee.

AFAIK, there is no online source for S&W SN's.



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Old April 16, 2014, 12:28 PM   #5
Lonestarsun
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thanks again!

I apologize I didn't realize I hadn't mentioned it in my first post but again many thanks!
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Old April 16, 2014, 12:31 PM   #6
RJay
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The Standard Catalog of Smith and Wesson lists the serial number sequence of the second Model Schofield .45 S&W in 1876 -1977 as 3036 to 8969. Smith and Wesson may be able to tell you when and where it was shipped, any other history , well, don't know.
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Old April 16, 2014, 12:41 PM   #7
Lonestarsun
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so I called Smith and Wesson and they gave me a little history so thanks guys!
it is a Smith and Wesson model 3 schofield 2nd model chambered in .45 S&W was shipped to Springfield armory in Massachusetts built in 1876 and to think i found this in the trash someone was throwing it away!
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Old April 16, 2014, 09:04 PM   #8
James K
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While I think that revolver is too far gone for a real restoration (too much metal would have to be removed), I would take steps to kill active rust and preserve what is left. I would replace the grips, having them made if necessary, and try to get the gun functioning, but not harm it further.

Jim
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Old April 16, 2014, 09:13 PM   #9
Lonestarsun
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That sounds like exactly what I was thinking! Need to figure out best way to neutralize the rust I was thinking of using ospho to do it any thoughts?
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Old April 16, 2014, 09:41 PM   #10
gyvel
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ALthought the outside condition is less than desireable, I would bet that the gun is still workable.
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Old April 16, 2014, 09:44 PM   #11
Lonestarsun
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I know the hammer pulls back and the springs are good enough it would most likely fire the round however the barrel is scary to think about firing out of it's so pitted however I can still see clearly the rifling...
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Old April 17, 2014, 12:49 PM   #12
Lonestarsun
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So I believe I'm going to soak it in WD 40 first to get it oiled and keep additional rust from developing and hopefully it breaks the present rust down some I'm just nervous about getting the rust out of the pits and the little books and crannies
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Old April 17, 2014, 04:26 PM   #13
gyvel
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You can use a bronze bore cleaning brush to help get some of the rust out of the "nooks and crannies."

I would try using one with turpentine, which seems to have a tendency to dissolve rust.
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Old April 17, 2014, 04:27 PM   #14
Lonestarsun
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I may just do that figure wd40 for a couple days to get it started wouldn't hurt though
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Old April 17, 2014, 07:35 PM   #15
gyvel
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Quote:
I may just do that figure wd40 for a couple days to get it started wouldn't hurt though
WD-40 is basically a penetrating oil, so it won't really hurt anything, but the turpentine will probably work a little more efficiently.

If you want the ultimate rust dissolver wihtout resorting to acids, go to your local tree-hugger health food store and get a couple bottles of "100% pure, natural wintergreen oil." (Not the stuff you get at Walgreen's.) It was a tip I got from a renowned, but now, unfortunately deceased, gunsmith.

A bottle runs about 6 bucks, but it lasts a long time as a little goes a long way.
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Old April 17, 2014, 08:05 PM   #16
Lonestarsun
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Hmmm sounds fragrant lol I will give it a shot thanks!
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Old April 18, 2014, 05:15 AM   #17
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Before going to drastic measures, I would suggest you try the electrolytic rust removal method.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Elec...val-aka-Magic/


Vintage Grips, available @ Midway ($21), makes repro grips for the S&W Model 3:

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/722...-polymer-black


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Old April 18, 2014, 08:50 AM   #18
Jim Watson
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I don't know how aggressive wintergreen oil is, but I would not do any strong rust removal treatment, certainly not electrolytic which is about as drastic a measure as I know of. short of sandpaper.

Oil and a coarse cloth or soft brush to get the active rust off and leave the patina of hard tight oxide is about all I would do to it.

The grips PetahW shows are for a New Model No 3 and will not fit a Schofield.
This is the style, but Schofield grips were walnut not hard rubber.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/565...ProductFinding
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Old April 18, 2014, 09:15 AM   #19
Lonestarsun
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thanks for the replies guys and I've never seen the electric way but I don't thing I wanna try that with a firearm of this age with out trying to do it more gently first WD-40 and a soft bristle toothbrush first then maybe a 0000 steel wool mixture I talked with a rather famous gun shop about what to do with it and they said WD-40 to penetrate and break the rust loose and then keep it oiled and continue with the plan until I have the money to get it restored by an antique firearms expert.... I'd rather do it myself but I really don't want to mess it up either
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Old April 18, 2014, 09:17 AM   #20
Lonestarsun
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and as far as grips go I am going to hold out for walnut made grips and try to get the best grain and everything even if I have to make them myself
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Old April 18, 2014, 12:50 PM   #21
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Those grips are flat, with no special cuts or notches to complicate things. Pictures will give you a very good idea of what is involved. You just leave enough wood so that you can drill for the locator pin without having to get it exact, then fit the grips in the normal manner.

Jim
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Old April 18, 2014, 04:57 PM   #22
gyvel
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Quote:
I don't know how aggressive wintergreen oil is,
It's not aggressive at all, but is a great rust buster due to its tremendous penetrating powers. I've used it often in breaking loose badly rusted screws, barrels from actions, and on rust clumps.
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Old April 19, 2014, 03:11 PM   #23
Lonestarsun
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Just spoke to a museum curator out where I live and they want to display my pistol as a veterans firearm display for an upcoming exhibit
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