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Old February 26, 2013, 03:37 PM   #1
Spammy_H
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Hornady LnL AP - Broken Pawl Won't Come Out

My press jammed, and in trying to "delicately" unjam it, one of the drive pawls sheared off. Hornady was kind enough to send a couple or replacements quickly, but I can't seem to get the pawl to come loose.

I've removed the adjustment screw, and the pawl "pops" up and down by the force of the spring underneath it, but I'm guessing that when it sheared off, it must've "staked" itself in the channel.

I'm guessing that I need to file / debur the lip of the channel in which the pawl sits in order to get it to come loose.

Has anyone else experienced this with the LnL?

Should I try to drill into the pawl to pull it out? How hard are these guys?

I tend to be a little conservative when it comes to beating the life out of mechanical equipment, so I realize that I may be a little too tentative.

Thanks for your help.
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Old February 26, 2013, 08:38 PM   #2
NESHOOTER
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You can try to drill it I think it will spin though, the pawls are tempered as the break and not bend. Once you get it out never put that type of pressure that unit don't like it.
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Old February 27, 2013, 11:08 AM   #3
Spammy_H
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NES - thanks. I'm going to try to clean the pawl channel opening, as I probably "staked" it in place when I broke the pawl.

I realize that I applied too much force, which took place after about 20 minutes or so of trying to unjam the press. I removed the shell plate to relieve stress on the sub plate and drive assembly, and manually worked the sub plate back and forth while attempting to operate the ram.

I finally slowly operated the ram to the up position, thereby breaking the pawl.

On another forum someone mentioned that the primer punch / shuttle may have hung up, causing the jam. If this happens again, I'll take a look at the priming system to see if it's what is not allowing the drive assembly to index.
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Old February 28, 2013, 03:28 PM   #4
Spammy_H
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Update - After installing the new left pawl (lightly hand-reamed the channel with a 1/4" drill bit), I adjusted it per Hornady: bottom the adjustment screw out, then back out 1 1/2 turns, and make small adjustments (1/16 - 1/8 turn at a time). Initially about half of the time the shell plate wouldn't completely advance on the down stroke, so I adjusted the pawl up a couple times to where the shell plate would completely advance on each down stroke.

When I went to reload, everything worked pretty well for the most part. However, I think that I am getting closer to the source of my initial problem, causing the lockup:

Several times the primer cam wire came unseated. I also had a few instances of the press not allowing me to pull the handle (upstroke of the ram/shell plate) initially. When I tried a second time, the handle would operate fine.

I did polish, clean and lube the priming system (emery cloth to polish, brake cleaner to clean, and liquid wrench dry lube sprayed and wiped down to lube) before starting.

I'm wondering if when under load (full shell plate), the shell plate isn't fully advancing and I would need to adjust the left pawl for more advancement, because the sub plate isn't completely lined up with the primer punch hole, causing the punch to hang up coming down out of the sub plate after priming on the down stroke.

Could this also cause the primer cam wire to break away as well?
Any thoughts?

Thanks.
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Old February 28, 2013, 04:22 PM   #5
cryogenic419
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Just in case it is a matter of pawl adjustment

http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=368171
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Old February 28, 2013, 04:50 PM   #6
FlyFish
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Two thoughts -

You should be able to tell if the shellplate is advancing sufficiently by attempting to move it by hand after advancing it with the press handle. If the pawl isn't rotating it enough, you'll feel it click into place.

I had a somewhat similar jamming problem with my LnL press that involved the decapping process. When depriming, the spent primers were getting stuck on the depriming pin, and then partially reseating themselves on the upstroke, which would prevent the press from advancing. Often, the first jam would result in the primer dropping off and then I was able to continue normally. It was a problem with some die sets but not others. I eventually fixed it by doing a little polishing on the primer punches for those dies that had the problem.

I wouldn't think that either of those things would lead to the primer cam wire breaking away.
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Old February 28, 2013, 11:35 PM   #7
NESHOOTER
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Quote:
I had a somewhat similar jamming problem with my LnL press that involved the decapping process. When depriming, the spent primers were getting stuck on the depriming pin, and then partially reseating themselves on the upstroke, which would prevent the press from advancing.
I would suspect this as well, by the way OP do you know anyone who owns one of these presses, I would contact your local friendly LGS and see if they can point you to a local range or the local reloader....
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Old March 1, 2013, 03:02 AM   #8
rajbcpa
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This happened to me 6 times. I gave up after 5 months of constant issues with this press. I bought a Dillon 550 and I have never looked back.
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Old March 1, 2013, 11:38 AM   #9
schmellba99
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You can always count on rajbaca to come in on any Hornady thread.

One other thing I would tell you to look at, especially since you have mentioned the primer cam wire is to make sure that the double nut that holds it to the base of the press (one under that fits into the machined slot and one on top that you tighten down) are tight. Every so often you need to make sure the top one is snugged down against the base of the press - when it comes loose, the cam wire will wiggle just a little bit during the press operation. Most of the time it is no big deal, but if it wiggles enough it will cause the priming system to not operate correctly and jam up the press.

I try to remember to check this nut every few thousand rounds. I actually bent the crap out of my primer cam wire at one point because of this. I was able to get it straightened back out without any problems, but bought another to have as a spare. Whenever I finally get around to changing them out, I intend to put just a drop of Loctite on the nut on the bottom of the press and the one on top to keep them from loosening up.

The last time I checked the top nut, it was still good and tight on my press, and that was after several thousand rounds. Maybe I put enough torque on it that I won't have to worry about it again, but it is something to keep in the back of your mind to check on occasion.
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Old March 1, 2013, 12:09 PM   #10
Spammy_H
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schmelba - thanks for the advice. I'll take a look at that too. I appreciate it.
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