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Old March 18, 2013, 12:36 PM   #1
craZivn
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SP-101 Owners: Do All SPs Do This?

Just noticed that when I pull the trigger in double-action mode, the trigger housing moves away from the frame just slightly. Just enough to slip a bit of paper into the crack:



It happens also on the left side of the gun, but to a lesser extent. The gap disappears when the trigger hits full-reset.

Does everyone else's SP101 do this too, or is it something I should keep an eye on?

The gun shoots perfectly.
I did fully disassemble and polish the internals, but I only used a soft Dremel wheel with rouge, so there's no chance I could have deformed any of the parts. Installed something backwards, maybe.

If y'all could check your guns and see if this is normal, I'd appreciate it much!

Thanks,
Ivan
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Old March 18, 2013, 01:13 PM   #2
Hammerhead
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Have you lightened the trigger return/latch spring?
Maybe the trigger link plunger is in the wrong spot?
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Old March 18, 2013, 02:27 PM   #3
wild willy
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Checked my wifes it doesn't move apart any.
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Old March 18, 2013, 04:01 PM   #4
oldgunsmith
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Remove the grip to see if the plunger that holds the guard ass'y. in place is out all the way. Rap the rear of the guard soundly with something that won't leave a mark on it. A nylon hammer works best, but the butt end of a large screwdriver handle will work. That should close up the gap. If it doesn't, or if it happens again, it might be time to have someone that is familiar with Ruger DA's look at it.
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Old March 18, 2013, 04:13 PM   #5
Venom1956
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more importantly whats up with that hammer? is that like some new cast or MIM part?

Nevermind googled it. damn. that just looks icky.

I think your frame is within spec. its not ideal but should be fine. call ruger and ask if your concerned.
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Old March 18, 2013, 10:08 PM   #6
craZivn
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Thanks for the replies so far! Trigger return spring is stock, trigger link plunger and trigger latch are in their proper places and properly engaged.

Oldgunsmith, you may have misunderstood my original post. The trigger housing moves away from the frame every time the trigger is pulled, then returns tight to the frame when the trigger is released.

What seems to be happening, is that the tension of the trigger pushing up against the hammer dog to cock the hammer is pushing the entire trigger assembly downwards and creating the gap.

Measured the gap with a feeler guage, at it's widest point it's .006.
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Old March 18, 2013, 11:24 PM   #7
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Doesn't happen with either of mine.
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Old March 18, 2013, 11:29 PM   #8
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That's not normal. I don't know what's causing it, but it shouldn't do that.

I'd send Ruger an email with a link to this thread.
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Old March 19, 2013, 12:08 AM   #9
craZivn
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Just submitted an inquiry via the online form on Ruger's website. Didn't think to link this thread on there though, that would have been a good idea. I will let you guys know what they say.

And a slight correction on the gap size, it's .007". Measured with a feeler gauge.

Thanks all,
Ivan
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Old March 19, 2013, 12:33 AM   #10
skidder
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The plunger that holds the trigger guard assembly is suppose to be tight... pulling the trigger assembly toward the frame at all times. I bet if you pull on the guard you can create the gap manually. It is defeniately a defect that Ruger should be notified of.

My guess is they will replace the trigger guard assembly. The easiest way for them to fix the problem.
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Old March 19, 2013, 12:32 PM   #11
craZivn
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Yep, I can create the gap by wiggling the trigger guard.
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Old March 19, 2013, 03:52 PM   #12
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I have three (two 357 and a 22), none of them do that.
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Old March 19, 2013, 04:21 PM   #13
oldgunsmith
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Sounds like it's time to have someone familiar with Ruger DA.s look at it.
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Old March 19, 2013, 09:24 PM   #14
craZivn
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Ruger replied to my online request and told me to call them for an RMA #. So I did, off it went to them today.

I got this gun ten days ago as a warranty replacement for a different gun that failed within a few weeks of purchase, I just seem to have no luck with guns as of late!

I wonder if it has anything to do with the fact that this thing had the number 13 scratched into the frame and trigger guard.
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Old March 20, 2013, 12:06 AM   #15
skidder
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You did the right thing.
Ruger has a great CS department. You should have no problem getting it fixed.

Keep us posted on the outcome.
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Old March 20, 2013, 01:12 PM   #16
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Never mind that, what's with all that ear wax on the grip?
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Old March 20, 2013, 03:37 PM   #17
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Thats not ear wax, its a very nice set of boxelder burl panels!!
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Old March 20, 2013, 08:06 PM   #18
Super Sneaky Steve
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Mine doesn't do that. I'd be curious to hear what Ruger has to say about it. They may fire it and send it back saying it past a test fire.
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Old March 20, 2013, 09:10 PM   #19
Mr. James
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1chig,

Why did your name spring immediately to mind?

That's a shameless plug for a fine craftsman, by the way.
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Old March 20, 2013, 09:48 PM   #20
1chig
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How you doing Mr James? I saw the opportunity. . OP none of my sp revolvers do that. Sorry your having trouble with a fine revolver.
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Old March 20, 2013, 10:18 PM   #21
Deaf Smith
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Something is not fitted right with that gun.

Nothing on the frame is supposed to move when puling the trigger. That includes the trigger guard housing.

Deaf
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Old March 20, 2013, 10:22 PM   #22
Dragline45
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Quote:
I did fully disassemble and polish the internals, but I only used a soft Dremel wheel with rouge, so there's no chance I could have deformed any of the parts.
Not true, I tested this out one day and only after a minute or two of polishing a piece of steel with a dremel and rouge it left a noticable shallow gouge in the metal. Try mothers mag polish next time, it is far less abrasive and actually gets it to a higher shine.
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Old March 21, 2013, 09:02 PM   #23
oldgunsmith
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The object is not to have nice, shiny pretty looking parts. Only specific surfaces should be worked for specific reasons and a dremel is not the right tool to do that. Nearly impossible to keep everything straight and level. A set of stones works much better if you know what you're doing. You don't polish ANYWHERE you don't know exactly what you expect to gain from polishing there, and know where NOT to polish and why. You don't just start polishing things just to be polishing them. Guessing where to polish or polishing at random doesn't work. I'm not saying that's what you did, just that I've seen a lot of guns screwed up pretty bad by someone doing that.
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Old March 22, 2013, 01:24 AM   #24
craZivn
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Thanks for the tips Dragline and Oldgunsmith! I polished my internals according to the guide on Teslamap, and took great care to polish only a little and used a low speed. I actually think I did not polish as much as it could have used, as there was almost no noticeable difference in the trigger pull after I was done. But I'll stay away from the Dremel in the future, thank you for the heads-up!

As far as the loose trigger guard goes, nothing I polished has any interaction with the latch or the hole it locks into, so I'm sure that it was not caused by the polishing.

Ivan
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Old March 28, 2013, 09:34 PM   #25
craZivn
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Called Ruger today to inquire about the RMA status, he said my gun is on it's way back to me as of yesterday afternoon! Later I got an email from UPS, scheduled delivery is Monday! Very excited to get my gun back!

The guy listed off the things they had done to it, I don't remember all of them but they included "adjust trigger guard", "adjust frame" and "replace pawl" (???).

Will update on Monday!
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