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Old February 13, 2013, 01:44 PM   #1
DreadPirateWesley
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Long Range custom build

Hey all. New to the forum but pretty excited to see all the great threads. I've been reading non-stop for the last few days. I'm trying to build myself a long distance rifle but don't know where to go from here. I have decided on starting with a classic Mauser action in 6.5x55 Swedish. I really like the ballistics and want to keep it out of magnum calibers. For the barrel I want to have between and 26" and 28" for a full burn with a 1:8.5" or 1:9" twist. That's about as far as I've gotten. I don't know any manufacturers for where to find a barrel to these specifications and I don't know how heavy I should go. I also I know it isn't very powerful but would a muzzle-break be overkill? Next step is finding a stock. Any ideas where to start there?
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Old February 13, 2013, 01:47 PM   #2
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ITD Custom Guns, give'em a call they specialize in custom mauser rifle work and it's reasonably price, they feature Douglas Barrels.
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Old February 13, 2013, 02:15 PM   #3
Scorch
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Quote:
I'm trying to build myself a long distance rifle but don't know where to go from here.
Well, people typically do some research into what is currently in use and successful and then proceed from there. First of all, can you describe what you mean by long-distance rifle? If you mean a rifle for shooting 1,000 yds+, then that is generally referred to as a long-range rifle. If 1,000 yds is not in the plans, then you can build a target rifle for shooting to 600-800 yds.
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have decided on starting with a classic Mauser action in 6.5x55 Swedish.
Not the best action for a long range rifle. Most serious builds are done on a Remington, Savage, or aftermarket action like a Surgeon or a Panda or BAT. But you can use whatever you want, just realize going into it that there are minimal parts available for Mauser actions, and there will be many other challenges in the quest for accuracy.

Your choice of cartridges is not bad, 6.5X55mm Swedish is a very capable cartridge, and there are .264" target bullets available. But, again, there are better choices.
Quote:
For the barrel I want to have between and 26" and 28" for a full burn with a 1:8.5" or 1:9" twist.
A 6.5X55mm would be at peak efficiency out of a 26" barrel, I don't know if you would gain much with the additional 2". You understand that 28" is a special order barrel, right? Most barrel blanks are 25"-27", but you can have a barrel made any length you want up to about 36".

In order to stabilize the 139 gr-140 gr bullets, a 1:9 should be sufficient, but you can order whatever twist you want from some makers (cut rifling in odd twists is easy to do, button rifling is different).
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I don't know any manufacturers for where to find a barrel to these specifications and I don't know how heavy I should go.
There are numerous barrel manufacturers, and most have web sites. Study up and decide what you want, most will not advise you. They make barrels for a living, and are good at what they do. machinists turn down and profile barrels, and they are good at what they do. Some barrel makers offer profiled barrels, but they charge extra for it.
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I also I know it isn't very powerful but would a muzzle-break be overkill?
I have seen muzzle braks on 22-caliber centerfires, it is a matter of choice. I will tell you, though, that many target shooters do not like to shoot around shooters whose rifles have them (nothing like dropping out of the X-ring to really tick somebody off), and some ROs will move shooters with brakes on their rifles to the far end of the range.
Quote:
Next step is finding a stock. Any ideas where to start there?
Again, there are several companies that make pre-carved unfinished stocks. You will need a stockmaker to get one fitted and finished in a way that will help you be competitive. That is what I do, I am a stockmaker. There are others in the country, not too many any more I suppose, but still some are out there.

Again, sit down and plan it out first, then find and buy the components, then find a good gunsmith to help assemble the barreled action, then stock the rifle. If you do it right, you will be in action next year.

Or you could just go and buy a good factory rifle to start with and build your dream rifle for next year.
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Old February 13, 2013, 03:55 PM   #4
mapsjanhere
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Couple questions - are you going to use a Swedish 96 action or are you planing on using a classic 98 stile? Are you planing on strictly bench shooting at a range or lugging it around? Do you have a donor rifle with trigger etc. or are you starting from scratch?
For barrels, check Lilja, Douglas, Hart, Shilen, Krieger, none of them are going to sell you a bad barrel. As for weight, go as fat as you want to carry. If all you're doing with it is taking it out of the trunk and onto the bench, keep it full thickness (all barrels start out as 1" blank or so anyway, so you're saving the manufacturer money). Don't overdo the length, short and fat is what most precision shooters seem to prefer.
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Old February 13, 2013, 04:47 PM   #5
DreadPirateWesley
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its the Swedish 96. Yes I have a donor rifle and will be doing specifically bench shooting at 1000 yrds. I have a store bought rem 700 that I use right now but I wanted to make a custom. I'm not terribly attached to the Mauser but I have not read about any accuracy issues with a controlled feed vs a push feed but perhaps I'm not looking in the right place. if this is going to present an issue I can always go with another action. Thanks for the great comments all keep them coming with any questions. Like I said before this is my first custom build and any help would be appreciated.
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Old February 13, 2013, 04:59 PM   #6
tobnpr
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Anyone that balks at brakes "why do you need one for such a wuss caliber", does so out of ignorance...and that's giving them the benefit of the doubt that they're not just plain stupid.

For long-range shooting, they are very valuable in reducing recoil and jump to the extent that it's much easier to spot your own hits....negating the need for a spotter. With about a 3/4 second flight time at 600 yards, it allows the rifle to settle back and re-acquire the target through the scope around the time of impact.
Proper form- driving the rifle from straight behind when shooting prone- and correctly loading a bipod minimizes muzzle jump and helps keep you on target. But since adding a brake to my 7-08, I'll never not have one on a long-range stick.
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