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Old February 3, 2013, 12:11 AM   #1
Poindexter
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Join Date: September 2, 2009
Location: Interior Alaska
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New owner of new vaquero, 5 questions

I just took possession of a NIB New Vaquero, blued steel in .45LC with the TALO birdshead grip and 3.75" barrel. Absolutely love it. The gun and I are just the right size to each other for appendiceal carry.

Not suggesting people living south of me "need" .45Colt for CCW, I live in northern Alaska where good guys and bad guys both wear thick heavy winter coats. Also, I already own a Ruger Redhawk also chambered .45Colt, not looking to do anything crazy with the Vaquero.

1. Which Belt Mountain base pin and latch system should I get? I have run a few rounds of 270SAA in front of 7.5gr Titegroup. Brian Pearce calls it a 14,000 psi load. With 255 cast SWC I'll probably stick at or near 13,000 cup with about 7.8gr Universal Clays, according to Hodgdon. I'll chrono both of these once it is warm enough for my chronograph to work outdoors, I am expecting about 800ish fps muzzle and I think that will be fine.

What I don't want to do is drill a hole in the underside of my barrel for a set screw if I don't need it, doubt I do. Will just the BM pin and latch do the trick, or do I need to look at the middle range options with the Allen head set screw?

2Can I use just any old car wax? I haven't had a revolver that isn't stainless in a number of years. The manual from Ruger suggests I could put a thin coat of wax on it to protect the bluing from skin oils. Sounds like a good idea.

3.How long for the factory oil to cease and desist with the staining? I am halfway inclined to take the pins out and take the thing completely apart to clean all the old oil out of it. Seems like I get it clean, shoot it and find a bunch more of the old orange goo sprayed put of the action onto the cylinder, the ejector, the trigger guard, getting old. So far I am only through about 100 rounds.

4.If I shoot this thing enough to cut a significant groove in the top strap, what all parts would I need to move my birdshead grip onto some "other" new Vaquero? I imagine everything I would need is in my gun already, just want to be sure. I figure if I find a really good deal on a stainless new vaquero in .45 Colt I could someday move the black birdshead grip onto the stainless frame, have the barrel shortened and recrowned, bring over my ejector rod and housing an be good to go right? I don't really care about the blue and stainless aesthetics, but I do want the blued grip to be the only thing sticking out of pants when I open my jacket.

5. I have decided to pickup an inexpensive SA revolver in .22. Local to me I can get a Heritage Rough Rider with the plow handle grip for $219. I see there is another version from the same company with a birdshead grip. Can anyone think of a .22 SA revolver with a grip size and shape close to what I already own? I am thinking I'll just grab the local plow handle since it is pretty close, I am guessing the HRR birdshead will be smaller and thinner than what I have already.
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Old February 4, 2013, 10:40 AM   #2
Jim March
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On #4: won't happen. Ever. Not with a 45. You won't have powder burning fast enough for it to be an issue.
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Old February 4, 2013, 11:20 AM   #3
texagun
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1. Which Belt Mountain base pin and latch system should I get?

Go to the Belt Mountain website for information. You can call or email Kyle and he will answer all your questions. Email responses may take a couple of days because he might be working at his other job.

2. Can I use just any old car wax? I haven't had a revolver that isn't stainless in a number of years. The manual from Ruger suggests I could put a thin coat of wax on it to protect the bluing from skin oils. Sounds like a good idea.

Renaissance Wax works good for this application. It is available on Ebay and a small can will last you for a long, long time. Firearm museums use it and highly recommend it for firearms.

3.How long for the factory oil to cease and desist with the staining? I am halfway inclined to take the pins out and take the thing completely apart to clean all the old oil out of it.

As an alternative, you can use Gun Scrubber or non-chlorinated brake cleaner to get the grease out of the gun. Follow up with a good lubricant and preservative. I like G-96 in the spray can.
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Old February 4, 2013, 12:40 PM   #4
rclark
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Join Date: February 12, 2009
Location: Butte, MT
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1) Do you 'need' a Belt Mountain Base pin (running into problems with the base pin jumping)? Or just want one.... At any rate. I don't use the allen screw at all. I just leave it be on my #5 base pins. No need to to 'drill' anything. Also you have a 3 3/4 in barrel. First the pin is just a New Vaquero (medium frame) base pin. BUT, with the short barrel, you need a 'small' head on the base pin to allow the ejector rod to properly eject the shells. You shouldn't use therefore a #5 base pin for the shorty. Hope that kind of makes since! Kyle will sell you the right one if you ask .

2) I personally just clean my guns with Hoppes #9 and that is that (blued and SS) Sometimes I'll lightly oil the gun if put away for a few months. Not a big deal here. Never have seen any 'rusting'.

3) First thing I do is break my Rugers all the way down and thoroughly clean them. Then oil and good to go.

4) Never happen. You are good for several life times of shooting. Just go shoot it and enjoy.
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A clinger. When guns are outlawed, only outlaws will have guns. Single Action .45 Colt (Sometimes improperly referred to by its alias as the .45 'Long' Colt or .45LC). Don't leave home without it. Ok.... the .44Spec is growing on me ... but the .45 Colt is still king.

Last edited by rclark; February 4, 2013 at 12:45 PM.
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Old February 4, 2013, 01:30 PM   #5
Bob Wright
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As to the base pin, most of my Rugers still have the original factory base pin. Only two have the Belt Mountain base pin, and these guns I bought used.

As to cleaning out the goop, I've removed the grips and cylinder and dunked my guns in a deep pan filled with lacquer thinner and flushed out any factory stuff. This degreases the gun completely, so some type of oil or wax is required. I've never used wax, but do use my concoction of 50/50 mix of motor oil and Three-In-One machine oil. I wipe it on fairly heavily then wipe it down with a shop towel.

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Old February 5, 2013, 01:44 AM   #6
Poindexter
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Join Date: September 2, 2009
Location: Interior Alaska
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I have an actual walking base pin. I have gotten through a couple cylinders so far without having to shove the base pin back home, but a couple is "two", and at 100 rounds in and 6 rounds per cylinder, the other 14 times I have lit off a cylinder full I have had to push the base pin home at least once.

I have had the base pin out twice for sure, cleaned the snot out of it both times and have had a good look at the base pin latch. I think the plunger part of the latch is coming over far enough it ought to be holding the pin just fine if all the dimensions are correct, my latch comes out just a touch over 50% of the way across the hole the base pin goes through. Eyeball estimated just over 50%, I don't have a tool for that one.

I have an email in to Kyle.

Tried some car wax, Mother's brand, it was in the garage. Can't hurt the grip frame, if it burns off quick or ugly I will post up.

I'll think about a liquid degreaser if the old factory oil just won't let up. I figure it isn't really hurting anything, so I am less than anxious to undo the factory torque on all those screws and find whatever little pieces I drop on the floor - my first SA in a while. I am sure many of you can break one down in your sleep.

Thanks for the input folks.
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Old February 5, 2013, 05:21 PM   #7
5thShock
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Check your wax for abrasives. If it says polish it has'em.
Johnson's Paste Wax if you're not a firearms museum.
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Old February 9, 2013, 01:39 AM   #8
ZVP
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Join Date: June 20, 2009
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To prevent rust wipe the revolver down with CLP Break-Free. Heck it even prevente corrosion with Black Powder fouling!
I use it for everything!
BPDave
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