|January 25, 2013, 04:30 PM||#1|
Join Date: January 24, 2013
New to Reloading My Story So Far and OAL?
First off I want to say I have been looking threw some of threads here for awhile before I signed up and this seems to be a great place to find information from some really experienced people...Thanks....
I have been buying up reloading equipment for over a year doing alot of homework,,alot of reading and have spent alot of money and time doing so..But at this time I have not loaded the first round yet,,But I have learned alot about setting up my equipment/dies and how to trim,,deburr,,expand case mouths,,size,,seat bullets "dummy rounds",,Install primers...Pretty much alot of the case prep before the actual loading of live rounds..
So Far The Equipment I have is.
Hornady Lock N Load Progressive Press
Lock N Load Powder Measure
Hornady GS-1500 Powder Scale
Lyman Universal Case Trimmer
RCBS Case Lube kit
RCBS Primer Pocket Cleaner/Brush
Cabelas Deburr Tool
Lyman Magnum Bullet Puller
I have RCBS Die Sets For
Iam wanting to start with loading the 44mag which I bought some new Remington brass for and primed with Remington 2 1/2 large pistol primers and plan to use 180gr XTP for a Redhawk,,I cant decide between IMR-4227 or 2400 which Lyman recommends...The big problem that iam having is that Lyman recommends 1.610 OAL but I have some factory loads from Hornady loaded with the 180xtp and they measure 1.575Factory loaded Winchester 210gr Silvertips measure 1.585both shorter than the 1.610 that Lyman recommends..When loaded to the recommended 1.610 the brass is just to the edge of the cannelure...Lyman lists that OAL like it is the standard but comparing it to other factory loaded ammo its obvious that it isnt...What would be a safe minimum and maximum OAL for the 44mag??A length of 1.585 puts the crimp to about center of the cannelure on the 180 XTP,,That is the length I thought about loading.....I would appreciate any opinions on this and also on powder selection....Keep in mind that iam still learning and working my way into reloading slow and carefully...I also noticed the OAL that Lyman recommends for the 243win doesnt match my factory loads lengthThe 243 will be the next caliber that I start with...I will save the 243 for a future thread
Reloading supplies are out of stock at most places I have checked even online,,I cant find powder or a #1 Shell plate in stock,,,The prices on Ebay for shell plates for my press are way above normal some going for 3 times the original price
|January 25, 2013, 06:16 PM||#2|
Join Date: September 17, 2009
Don't use factory ammo as your guide. Use the book. OAL is based upon the particular bullet style / weight, and the powder charges are formulated accordingly.
You may want to see if you can find a periodical as well. Hodgdon publishes an annual reloading journal with current information. Use 2-4 sources to help "triangulate" toward the right solution.
My only recommendation on equipment would be a balance scale to compliment your digital one. Digital scales can be finicky - sensitive to temperature, other electrical devices (lights, esp. fluorescents), drafts, and level.
Use both scales until you are confident with your digital one. Some have ha success putting their scale in a cardboard box when reloading in a drafty place like a garage.
You may want to get a can of Hornady One Shot case lube. It worked much better for me when resizing rifle brass than the standard lube pad.
|January 25, 2013, 07:15 PM||#3|
Join Date: December 1, 2002
"I also noticed the OAL that Lyman recommends for the 243win doesnt match my factory loads length"
Lyman, nor anyone else, "recommends" any OAL at all. What the manuals all list is the OAL the test team used to develope the book's listed data. It's no more of an assurance for what's 'right' to anyone else than the charges they show.
Averaging data from various books is fun but meaningless. Start at the listed starting charges with any new gun or load and slowly, .2, .3., .5 grain steps depending on the size of the case. Work up to the book's max while watching for evidence of excessive pressure; probably won't happen. If it does, then what the book says doesn't matter; back off about 10% and call that YOUR max for that powder, case, primer and bullet in YOUR rig.
Seat your handgun bullets at the crimping groove unless you have reason to otherwise, especially so for revolver rounds. Otherwise, rifle or pistol, using a factory round as a gage is as good a place for a new guy to start as any.
Last edited by wncchester; January 25, 2013 at 07:27 PM.