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Old January 19, 2013, 09:17 PM   #1
Rford09
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Understanding the loading manual!

My dad and i decided to get into reloading last year, so we went out and bought a progressive hornandy reloader. Started out with 45acp, using CCI primers, once fired brass, hodgens titegroup powder, and 230 grain plated berrys bullets. I loaded them up with a recipe that I found on here. And other than my dad having a few jams we have had no problems with them.

So today we started setting up the 40 s&w dyes, I wanted to find the recipe in the loading manual, hopefully using the same powder. So I got out the hornandy manual that we bought but it only has info if you are using hornandy bullets.

So my question is how many different manuals do you have, wich one do you refer to? There's not always a recipe using plated bullets, so what do you go by?

Thanks in advance
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Last edited by Rford09; January 19, 2013 at 09:30 PM.
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Old January 19, 2013, 09:22 PM   #2
JohnMoses
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Try Hodgon.com
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Old January 19, 2013, 09:30 PM   #3
Rford09
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Once again I don't see the specific bullet on there that we are using.
I am assuming that the BERB abreviation is for Berrys bullets? And the FP is for flat point? We are using round nose, I. Don't even see any round nose on that list.
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Old January 19, 2013, 09:37 PM   #4
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Use recipes from the lead bullets for plated bullets
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Old January 19, 2013, 09:41 PM   #5
Fire_Moose
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And use data for a similar weight and shape

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Old January 19, 2013, 09:44 PM   #6
Rford09
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So I can go by the hornady manual for any 180 grain round nose 40 s&w
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Old January 19, 2013, 09:49 PM   #7
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Essentially. Make sure you start low and work up.

Also double check your bullet is not compressing the powder after its seated.

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Old January 19, 2013, 09:51 PM   #8
Nathan
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For plated bullets, generally I use JHP data, but keep it under 1200 fps. Cast days might be a better match, but it is usually very slow.

A powder like AA#5, Universal Clays or Unique would be ideal, I believe. Specific data is available from the maker.
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Old January 19, 2013, 09:58 PM   #9
Rford09
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How do I know the bullet isn't compressing the powder?
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Old January 19, 2013, 11:21 PM   #10
Fire_Moose
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I use the depth gauge on my calipers to see how Mich empty space is above the powder. The little pin that comes out the bottom as you open the caliper. And then check the amount of bullet that goes into the case. Simple subtraction.

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Old January 20, 2013, 11:51 AM   #11
Nathan
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Quote:
Also double check your bullet is not compressing the powder after its seated.

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Why?
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Old January 20, 2013, 11:59 AM   #12
Brian Pfleuger
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Compressed powder or not is irrelevant.
Lots of data is compressing powder.

Plated bullets are usually designed to stay under about 1,200fps, give or take.

Generally, start at starting loads for equivalent weight jacketed bullets and work up to mid-level loads or loads that reasonably indicate 1,200-ish fps for your barrel length.

In other words, if max data is showing 1,350fps and start data show 1,050, you'd want to be at about mid-level data since velocity increases are reasonably linear.

Having a chronograph helps a lot, so you actually know the fps and because your barrel length may not match the official data.
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Old January 20, 2013, 12:38 PM   #13
Fire_Moose
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I've always been told and read that powder shouldn't be compressed.

None of the data I use compress powder....not sure where your loads are coming from....

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Old January 20, 2013, 01:27 PM   #14
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Some data show compressed. One reason to use caution is you can cause the case to deform or bulge if you compress too much. Probably affects ignition as well if it is too tight.

I found the chrony to be a great tool on pistol rounds, since you can easily get too hot but on the other hand many semi automatics will not cycle reliably if pressure is too low. As other posters pointed out, i find 1100 - 1200 velocity give reliable performance in my guns.

I learned about this when have misfeeds with practice ammo. Turned out when I shot it thru a chrony it was getting 950 fps. data had predicted 1150. Changed powder, loaded to 1150, problem solved. New chrony paid for.
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