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Old January 9, 2013, 07:57 PM   #1
delta tide
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Deburr new Starline brass?

Just received my first case of new Starline brass. I planned on spending the night deburring, but they don't seem like they need it. Do you other Starline users deburr or just load and shoot?
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Old January 9, 2013, 08:44 PM   #2
RobertInIowa
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I treat new brass the same as fired brass, just to be sure everything is uniform. Plus some of the new brass will usually have a bent mouth or two. Just my preference.
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Old January 9, 2013, 08:48 PM   #3
Misssissippi Dave
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I don't with new pistol brass from Starline. Rifle may be different. I don't know about that.
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Old January 9, 2013, 08:57 PM   #4
rclark
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All new brass (Starline and others) gets deburred. Just a couple of back and forth motions, inside and outside each case. Done! Only have to do once in the lifetime of the case. Now feed into sizing die and so on (treat as fired cases). There will always be a few that feel 'rough' when using the hand-tool.
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Old January 9, 2013, 09:40 PM   #5
maggys drawers
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I always do for both pistol and rifle. Just one time, only takes a second and I don't have to second guess about whether it was done at the factory or not.

Pistol never gets done again, rifle will get done after any trim.
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Old January 9, 2013, 10:07 PM   #6
William T. Watts
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I see no point deburring new straight wall pistol cases, the mouth of the case is belled,as a last step the case and bullet is taper crimped.. However, I do uniform primer pockets, deburr flash holes, check case length.. New rifle cases is another matter, they will have the expander partially run thru the neck, primer pockets uniformed, flash holes deburred, OAL checked, and checked in a cartridge case gage. William

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Old January 10, 2013, 01:29 AM   #7
Edward429451
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Chamfer the inside of the case mouth, resize the brass and load..
Revolver brass is roll crimped, not taper crimped.
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Old January 10, 2013, 09:49 AM   #8
sundog
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I just put 500 Starline 45 Colt cases into use. They needed deburred. I shoot cast, and the last thing I want is to purposely induce etching along the bearing surfaces of the bullet.

About crimping. There are times when I taper crimp straight wall cases, so roll crimp is not always a hard fast rule. Sometimes the taper crimp just works 'mo betta'.
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Old January 10, 2013, 11:53 AM   #9
delta tide
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Thanks for the advice fellows. As always, it's great to get everyone's opinions and experience.
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Old January 10, 2013, 12:09 PM   #10
twobit
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ditto on this below //

I always do for both pistol and rifle. Just one time, only takes a second and I don't have to second guess about whether it was done at the factory or not.

Pistol never gets done again, rifle will get done after any trim.


Did 1000 Starline 45 colt over the holidays. Went ahead and sized and primed all as a batch for later loading.
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Old January 10, 2013, 12:14 PM   #11
Unclenick
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To be sure everyone is on the same page: Deburring either refers to removing a wire edge from the outside of the case mouth with a female cutter, or to removing punch burrs from around the inside perimeter of the flash hole. If you buy cases that lack wire edges or burrs, and you are satisfied with their length or are not reaming the flash holes, there is no value to adding the operations. Examples for me are pretty much all Lapua and Norma cases, which come chamfered and deburred around the case mouth and are formed without flash hole burrs.

Case mouths may have wire edges from the saw, though final polishing by the manufacturer usually eliminates them pretty well, leaving only the trim pattern. Chamfering the inside of the case mouth can help smooth seating. Most often, though, if you are making match loads or loads that are to be crimped, you trim the cases to a uniform length, at which point you will have to chamfer and deburr the case mouth if your trimmer cutter doesn't handle that simultaneously.
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Old January 10, 2013, 01:34 PM   #12
Kevin Rohrer
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Even new cases need to be FL resized and trimmed. Then you can debur and chamfer to your heart's content.
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