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Old January 9, 2013, 07:10 PM   #1
deerslayer303
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Alright Gonna buy and open top!

Alright folks, I've nixed the extra barrel GPR project. So I'm gonna finally buy an open top. And I'll be darn if I can figure out which one I want. What I do know is it has to be a "correct period revolver" So help me decide. I kinda want a .36 but that means I have to buy all the stuff that goes along with a different caliber. You know mold, wads and or punch. So can I have some suggestions. I love the way a '60 Army looks but its .44 and the .62 navy is basically a '60 Army but in .36. Can you guys give me some help. Is a .36 faster than the .44? Ok I'll quit babbling, I just can't decide at all . If the funds permitted I'd order one of each LOL. I even like the smaller guns like the .31 cal pocket guns.
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Old January 9, 2013, 07:33 PM   #2
10851Man
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I own both .44's and .36's and I prefer the .36 in every respect.

My latest want is a Pietta 1862 Colt Police in .36 caliber. This is basically a 1860 Sheriff's Model (5-1/2" barrel) but in .36 caliber. It's not "period correct" but it is the best of the 1851 Navy with the looks of an 1860 army, plus a gorgeous six-shot, fluted cylinder.

As far as velocity goes, .36 is faster, but the heavier .44 has more energy.
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Old January 9, 2013, 07:39 PM   #3
Smokin'Joe
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Take a lesson from Wild Bill. Go with the 1851. You won’t regret it.
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Old January 9, 2013, 07:42 PM   #4
Beagle333
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WHAT?!? You don't own an 1860? Egads man!!!!! You must remedy this immediately... if not sooner!
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Old January 9, 2013, 07:43 PM   #5
10851Man
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Love how this gun looks....

The 1851 Navy would be my second choice!!!!!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Colt Police Revolver.jpg (13.5 KB, 44 views)
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Old January 9, 2013, 07:56 PM   #6
deerslayer303
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Quote:
WHAT?!? You don't own an 1860? Egads man!!!!! You must remedy this immediately... if not sooner!
I know right I've been stuck on the Remmies! But I'm gonna order that TOP loading stand so I figured its time for an open top.
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Old January 9, 2013, 07:58 PM   #7
deerslayer303
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10851MAN,

Yeah that is a slick looking piece for sure!
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Old January 9, 2013, 08:09 PM   #8
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One won't be enough

No matter where you start.
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Old January 9, 2013, 08:27 PM   #9
deerslayer303
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Ok What is the difference between and 1860 Army (cut for shoulder stock) and an 1860 army civilian.

And should I be worried about a pistol with a steel frame but a brass back strap? I don't think its a problem. Did the original '51 nave have a brass BS?
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Old January 9, 2013, 08:28 PM   #10
Hawg
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Get the 51 and then the 60.
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Old January 9, 2013, 08:44 PM   #11
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FWIW, I've owned 1860s, 1861s, 1858s, Walkers, Dragoons, Pattersons, and an 1862 pocket police. By far the most enjoyable revolver to shoot, IMHO, is the 1851 navy. Feel and balance are perfect. Light recoil, ammo is cheap, and of course the classic look of the thing. Of all the BP revolvers I have owned, I am down to a Uberti Walker and two Uberti 51s.
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Old January 9, 2013, 09:56 PM   #12
red96ta
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Deerslayer, the difference between the civilian and army models is that the army model has small cutouts on the bottom of the recoil shield and a couple extra screws to attach a shoulder stock. The civilian omits the details with less screws and a full recoil shield.
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Old January 9, 2013, 10:47 PM   #13
arcticap
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3rd Model Dragoon.
It can be loaded up to 50 grains.
And it looks just like the original.
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Old January 10, 2013, 05:20 AM   #14
Hawg
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As for the brass grip frame don't worry about it, its a non issue. Yes the originals did have brass grip frames. Civilian models were silver plated. London navies had steel grip frames.
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Old January 10, 2013, 07:35 PM   #15
10851Man
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I love the brass backstrap and triggerguard as I can easily buff it out from sweat, unlike a blued surface....FWIW
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Old January 10, 2013, 08:27 PM   #16
Strafer Gott
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Those screws are IMHO, a really uncomfortable feature. I missed the opportunity to buy a stock. Can they be replaced by a flush screw?
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Old January 10, 2013, 09:26 PM   #17
Smokin'Joe
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I found a 1/4" diameter black plastic screwdriver used to tweak electronics. I cut threads on it, screwed it in place and cut it to proper length.

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Old January 11, 2013, 05:57 AM   #18
Beagle333
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I like the extra screw holes. I consider 'em to be instant access to the "transmission", in the event that I don't wanna do a full takedown cleaning.
I stick the tube of the Pb Blaster or RemOil can (WD-40, CLP, or whatever you use) in there and blow everything out through the space around the trigger.
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Old January 11, 2013, 08:04 AM   #19
Strafer Gott
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Nice plug job. I bet that's a lot easier on the trigger finger. These guys actually kick a little. Do you know the screw pitch?
Also, that's a neat little cleaning trick Beagle.
That's pretty much why I want to plug that hole. The gears and sand don't mix.
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Old January 11, 2013, 09:12 AM   #20
Smokin'Joe
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I just used the holes in the frame to cut the threads on the soft plastic rod. Taper the rod a bit so it will start in the hole and turn it.
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Old January 11, 2013, 09:48 AM   #21
Strafer Gott
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Thanks for the tip!
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Old January 11, 2013, 10:48 AM   #22
the Black Spot
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Forget the '60 or '61 or the '51 and just get a 1848 dragoon and u will b set!
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Old January 12, 2013, 11:32 AM   #23
deerslayer303
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Well thank you guys for all the tips on the open tops. I'm going to buy the 1860 From TomADC. A '51 Navy is next, then a '61, then a draggoon, then.........................oh man I've got it BAD! I need medication
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Old January 12, 2013, 02:28 PM   #24
Beagle333
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Quote:
I'm going to buy the 1860 From TomADC. A '51 Navy is next, then a '61, then a draggoon, then.........................
Now you need a Walker. You just gotta have a Walker in the safe. 'Touching off 60± grains in a revolver is practically a religious experience.
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Old January 12, 2013, 02:36 PM   #25
TomADC
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Quote:
Well thank you guys for all the tips on the open tops. I'm going to buy the 1860 From TomADC. A '51 Navy is next, then a '61, then a draggoon, then.........................oh man I've got it BAD! I need medication
I do have a Uberti 1851 NIB that would go nice with that 1860
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