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Old December 6, 2012, 03:14 AM   #26
AZAK
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anyone know of a website where I can get a replacement hammer for the Security Six?
www.gunbroker.com
search for security six hammer.

http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/Vie...Item=319766786

I love my six inch stainless security six; give me the velocity of the longer barrel!
YMMV
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Old December 6, 2012, 06:42 AM   #27
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If you can't find one on gunbroker, you might be out of luck. I seem to recall that Ruger was one of those companies that will not sell parts to their weapons, and they require you to send it to them for any gunsmithing. I am not sure if they still have hammers on hand for a Six gun.

And I think the sports car analogy is a bit off. Some guys have experienced a cracked forcing cone with relatively few rounds, while others have gotten thousands of rounds with no problems. So it's hit or miss.

If you go for a 65 (and they are a great gun), stick to 158 grain .357 and limit the use to maybe 10% of your shooting. Keep the fps to around 1100 and keep that forcing cone clean. I'm sure the gun will be fine.
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Old December 6, 2012, 07:23 AM   #28
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T'were it my decision, out of the three choices, I'd buy the 3" K Frame for concealed carry. 99% of the time I would feed it +P 158 FBI loads and go about my business.
As long as you don't make a habit of pistol whipping assailants the ejector rod should be fine. A 28 would probably be a better choice for buffaloing ner-do-wells...

I personally would hesitate and think long and hard before buying a Ruger (or anything else for that matter) that has already been modified for competition without knowing what else had been done to it, and who had done the work... but would have no problem with any other lightly used 4" Six for open carry, a 2-3/4" for concealed.

But you know what they say about opinions...

Go snag that K Frame before someone else walks away with it.
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Old December 6, 2012, 03:05 PM   #29
LAKE713
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Thanks, Azaz, for the link. And thank you, Homerboy, for the input.

Baba Louie, you bring up a good point about the competition work. I hadn't thought of that. What all is usually done in gunsmithing for competition work, aside from a trigger job?
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Old December 6, 2012, 03:51 PM   #30
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What all is usually done in gunsmithing for competition work, aside from a trigger job?
Standard tuning usually includes action job, chamfering of the cylinder charge holes, and installation of a fiber optic front sight. Conversion to DAO is common, but I wouldn't consider it "standard" (though it is on my match guns).

In all, tuning for competition doesn't generally involve anything radical, so just because it might be so tuned doesn't mean it's frail, temperamental or worn out. Or even close. Probably quite the opposite, in fact, and it's likely to be a pleasure to shoot. Any gun should be checked out closely to be sure it's in spec, though. The most common issue with true comp revos is usually a light trigger pull leading to reliability issues with factory ammo, but that's easy enough to fix.

Another issue with any modified Ruger was eluded to earlier: Some parts (e.g., the hammer, firing pin, etc) aren't sold by Ruger, so if one of these pieces of unobtainium breaks, the gun has to go back to Ruger. And they'll put it back to factory condition if it's been modified, which would be a bummer for someone who went to the trouble of tuning theirs for competition.
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Old December 6, 2012, 08:56 PM   #31
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Gotcha. Thank you. I haven't had a chance to hold the comp Security Six in my hand yet so I don't know what it feels like in operation. That definitely helps me gauge what to anticipate.

So how much would be a reasonable price for a good condition Ruger stainless Security Six w/a 4" barrel and a trigger job? $400? $350? More than $400?
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Old December 6, 2012, 09:10 PM   #32
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I am a Ruger guy, but all things considered I would go with the 3" smith fit carry
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Old December 6, 2012, 09:27 PM   #33
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A blued Security Six 4" is worth no more than $350, trigger job or not.
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Old December 6, 2012, 10:42 PM   #34
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Homerboy, would it be the same for a stainless Security Six in good condition with a trigger job or would that command a higher price tag?
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Old December 6, 2012, 10:54 PM   #35
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+1 on the 65 3", tho all are stout reliable revolvers.

My Model 65 3" caught my attention on a gun show table, I rushed home and culled two handguns and traded for the 65. I don't remember what I traded and don't care. It has a finish and trigger pull smoothed by use. I bobbed the hammer and put some Hogue rubber grips on it.
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Old December 6, 2012, 11:11 PM   #36
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F6Boomer, this one has factory slim wood grips (not the target grips), which I assume makes it better for carry but I'm wondering if you or anyone else has any experience with them and how they feel in your hand, especially if you have average to smallish hands (I'm 5'7" 165lbs).

Last edited by LAKE713; December 7, 2012 at 12:49 AM.
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Old December 7, 2012, 01:40 AM   #37
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If I am carrying a wheelgun I usually carry 145gr Silvertips in my L frame 586 no dash. but it is not a ccw.

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Old December 7, 2012, 03:24 AM   #38
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Very nice, armsmaster! A truly magnificent behemoth.

So what price should I offer for a good condition stainless Ruger Security Six with a 4" barrel and trigger job? I assume under $400 but just wanted to ask what you guys thought so as not to accidentally lowball the seller. It's down to that or the M65-3.
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Old December 7, 2012, 06:45 AM   #39
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I would not spend more than $400 cash for a 4" Security Six, and even that is a tad high in my opinion, but it would have to be very nice. I don't think the trigger job adds much to the value. I bought a perfect Service Six in 4" (no box, though) for $345 on gunbroker. With shipping and FFL it came to about $400. A 2.5" Six would bring about $50 to $75 more than a 4".

One thing I really like about the Rugers is how you can completely disassemble them with only a dime if you don't have a screwdriver. if you do buy the 4" Ruger, you can change the factory skinny grips to factory wood targets. CDNN has factory wood Ruger grips for $10.

As for rubber on the 65, I had the Pachmayr boot grips and it felt great. For conceal carry, the wood is better because it doesn't grip to clothes

If you're going to conceal carry, the Ruger shouldn't even be an option. That 1" does make a difference, not to mention the square butt on the 4". The 65 is the way to go as long as you understand that you're not going to be shooting alot of .357, and even then, make it 158 grain. And clean that forcing cone well. For open carry, home defense, or range use, I'd go for the 4" Ruger.
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Old December 7, 2012, 09:42 AM   #40
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thankfully TN is an open and conceal carry state. Thank you, Homerboy, you've been an awesome help!
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Old December 7, 2012, 10:50 AM   #41
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Lake 713,
I like Homer boy have had both K frame magnums from model 13 to 66. They are perhaps the finest shooting revolver ever made from S&W. But the revolver that I have owned the longest is a well use Ruger Police Service Six 4 inch. It has seen many rounds mostly 357 magnum from 125 to 158 grain. Its still as tight with no issues from the beginning in 1985. You have too decide. If you intend to shoot 357 magnums by a Ruger. It not, then a K frame magnum would be a excellent choice. By the way, Ruger did make Speed Sixes with 3 inch barrels. They are not common but are still more affordable than a S&W.
Good luck,
Howard
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Old December 7, 2012, 11:08 AM   #42
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Awesome, thank you, Roaddog. Yeah, I found a Speed Six here in TN but it's a 4" model (this all from private sellers; gun stores are too pricey ATM and probably won't get much better).

I was planning on shooting .357 and .38 SP/.38 SP +P on a 50/50 ratio but I guess I have my Chiappa Rhino for that. My S&W 629-4 Mountain Gun serves as a great open carry/hiking/camping gun and I've been thinking of a Glock 27 as a concealed carry pistol. So when it comes to versatile carry, the S&W 65-3 seems the way to go. However, I'd like to own a Ruger Security Six at some point (or a Speed Six if I can find one in a 3" barrel for a decent price) since I like not being limited in my options as far as power.

The fact that the 65-3 I know of is a 3" model as opposed to the 4" Security Six probably edges out for me. While I'm normally not a fan of redundancy in my arsenal, I'll probably end up owning both before it's all said and done. I like the look of both, for different reasons. The Ruger looks like an older Western style revolver while the M65 has that sleek sexy 20th Century look to it.

I guess I didn't know it before getting into it but this kind of seems like a Ford/Chevy or Mossberg 500/Remington 870 debate. Both are excellent. Both will serve well. Both have their pluses and minuses. Neither really edges out the either.
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Old December 7, 2012, 06:27 PM   #43
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If your intent is 50/50 .357/.38, then I would not get the 65. It will probably hold up if you use lukewarm loads and clean the forcing cone, but if you DO split a forcing cone, you have a paperweight. If by some miracle you hurt the Six, Ruger will keep it and sell you a new GP for below retail (like half price), so at least your ruined Six will get you something. And the Six series does not have the flat spot on the forcing cone that is the issue with K frame magnums. If the 65 is gonna be a concealed carry, shoot 95% .38 and follow it up with a cylinder or two of .357. Internet lore aside, I have had at LEAST 5 different S&W armorers tell me to limit my .357 in the K frames to 158 and only for familiararity.

Last edited by Homerboy; December 7, 2012 at 06:40 PM.
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Old December 7, 2012, 07:44 PM   #44
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Lake,

I have several real good carry guns.

1. 3 inch 65 'Ladysmith', bead blasted, red insert front sight, Ahrends grips, my own action job..

2. 2 1/2 M66-3 Combat Magnum, Secret Service stocks, my own action job.

3. 2 3/4 Speed Six, Secret Service stocks, Ruger DAO hammer, and my own action job.

4. 3 inch GP-100, S&W front sight (bit thicker and taller than standard), Secret Service stocks, and again my own action job.

5. S&W 640 (.38 Spl.), red insert front sight, Secret Service stocks, my own action job, and it is my first CCW when CHL started here in Texas.

But sadly I pack a Glock 27... yes I've lost my marbles but I'm a fool for snub revolvers.

Any of the above will do fine. The 2 1/2 Combat Magnum the easiest to pack. The 3 inch GP the one you can load the meanest ammo in. But all of '3m are excellent. I suggest Buffalo Bore 158gr LSWHP .38s (honest velocity from my Speed Six is 1100 fps!)

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Old December 7, 2012, 09:21 PM   #45
LAKE713
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Ha, man I have GOT to get my fangs on some Buffalo Bore. That ammo came up often on another forum when I was discussing getting my Marlin 1895 45-70 in fighting condition for Alaska. Buffalo Bore is the bee's knees apparently.
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Old December 7, 2012, 09:41 PM   #46
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I've never fired a Ruger other than a sp101. I really like it and carry it most days. That said I bought a Lnib 3" 13 this summer and I really like it and shoots like a lazer. The only thing I would change would be I wish it were ss
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Old December 8, 2012, 03:43 AM   #47
LAKE713
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I know this is only partially germane to the subject but do you guys find a 4" barrel significantly harder to conceal than a 3" barrel? Does your height and size matter a lot or is it more just a matter of comfort and versatility?
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Old December 8, 2012, 04:11 AM   #48
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The round butt conceals better than a square butt does. With the round butt grip, I like the balance of the 3" over that of the 4". I like the full length ejector rod of the three inch better than the truncated ones of the shorter barrels, too.
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Old December 8, 2012, 04:26 AM   #49
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That's a good point, MLeake; I didn't think about standard ejector rod length being flush with a 3" barrel but now that you mention it most revolvers I see have an ejector rod that size.
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Old December 9, 2012, 07:14 PM   #50
Deaf Smith
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A few suggestions Lake...







[/img]http://thefiringline.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=63945&d=1287617435[/img]

The last two are my favorite.. AND if you want more power...



My 625-3 .45 ACP 3 incher fills the bill. Bit heavy but it does fill the bill (and my .44 Mountain Gun is nothing to sneeze at either.)

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