10mm reloading issue

[mil-spec II]

I have reloaded several different pistol calibers but never 10mm, just acquired a glock 20 and have decided to reload for it. I have a set of lee dies for reloading the 10mm, the problem i am having is i am getting a a small bulge below the the bullet after seating, I have tried several things to remedy this with no resolve, please help!!!!!!
even though the bulge is slight it bothers and me, is this a recipe for disaster with a glock 20?

[Brian Pfleuger]

I assume this bulge is uniform all the way around?

Check the finished cartridge dimensions against SAAMI specs. I suspect you'll find that the bulge is within spec and the case is being sized small enough that seating the bullet is pushing it back out, creating the bulge. If so, it's normal and you're fine.

[Gbro]

i am getting a a small bulge below the the bullet after seating, I have tried several things to remedy this with no resolve

Are you having any feeding issues or is this something you don't like to see?

I get that with all my 1911 .45ACP reloads (hard cast most noticable) and I have one pistol that doesn't like them.
I read on here not to long ago where these loaded cartridges are run back through the resize die w/decapper removed just as far as nessesary to remove the bulge. I have plans to give this a try for my Para PDA.

[Xfire68]

Brian is likely correct. Your "issue" is normal and the rounds are fine.

[serf 'rett]

Will the 10mm rounds drop into and out of the pistol barrel? (Plunk test) If they bind, you have a problem. If they don't, well, there might be nothing wrong.

Gbro - You may create loose bullets running the cartridges back through a resizing dies. The die may compress the brass and lead bullet; however, the brass may "spring back" while lead stays compressed. Just a thought.

[Brian Pfleuger]

I would't resize the finished round. You'd be crushing the bullet and would likely ruin accuracy.

My 10mm rounds all look as the OP describes and I've never had a functional issue with any of them.

[Don H]

The "wasp-waist" effect will help a great deal in preventing bullet set-back when chambering a round, especially when repeatedly chambering that round.

[tank1949]

You may have too much of the wrong powder and are compressing load. But, you might experience more problems with a Glock 20 as you go down the road. I have one and had major problems with it at first: It would not detonate primer in subfreezing tempertures, and due to volital cycling, I experienced bullets dislodging from brand new brass. Glock had a recal on this freezing problem and I have since purchased Lee tapered crimp dies and I run brass back partially through carbide resizer again. I love the gun and it is deadly with AA and 155 H XTP at 1325 fps. I mean deadly!!! Good luck!

[bedlamite]

You might also try seating the bullet and crimping in different steps.

[tkglazie]

What bed said.

I would also add that you might "try" an FCD as the 4th stage crimping die and see how that works for you. I do NOT want this to turn into a pro/con FCD thread, but it is as least worth considering. Some of us like the way it smoothes out the bulges in what would probably be good ammo as is. I use FCD for all of my handgun calibers with full knowledge that it is not essential that I do so. I simply like the way the die crimps my ammo and ensures 100% chamberability. I even use mine with lead bullets with great accuracy. Be warned that some FCDs are much tighter than others, which I find to be the root of much of the anti-FCD sentiment out there. If I had a tight FCD I would not use it, either.

[Gbro]

Like I said;

I have plans to give this a try for my Para PDA.

Pitzza said;

I would't resize the finished round. You'd be crushing the bullet and would likely ruin accuracy.

Well yes, but then again it might not. Will keep that in mind and if i see any key holes in my target i will know why.

Gbro - You may create loose bullets running the cartridges back through a resizing dies. The die may compress the brass and lead bullet; however, the brass may "spring back" while lead stays compressed. Just a thought.

And I thank you for the heads up. However, like i stated, my Para will not shoot any of my reloads reliably as it is and i have had 1 misfire with factory loads and have a suspicion that was due more to the LDA feature than the cartridge, however i may be wrong. I did re-chamber that round and it misfired again and when pulled unlike the misfire i had a year prior with a .45 Colt Ultra-Max factory cartridge this one had powder and the primer failed to ignite.
I have a FCD die also so maybe a test batch of both are in order.

[WIL TERRY]

THAT BULGE is an excellent thing to have at the bottom of the bullets in your handloads for ANY autoloading pistol. I am sure you'll figure out why....
And so it goes..

[tank1949]

Gbro,

It sounds like that the case lip may be too crimped. If my memory serves me correctly, all autos head space on case lip. It is real ease to put too much crimp. I did one time and results on 45s was no boom. I was experimenting on fatigued brass that would not firmly hold 230 FMJs. The bullet actually went too deep into chamber. Not enough force back against firing pin. Manually drop on in stack and mark it. Just a suggestion!

[Mello2u]

mil-spec II,

You may want to consider buying a Dillon Handgun Case Gage to check your loaded 10mm Auto ammunition. Dillon offers case gauges for many different cartridges.
http://www.dillonprecision.com/conte...gun_Case_Gages

[DASHZNT]

Originally Posted by Mello2u

mil-spec II,

You may want to consider buying a Dillon Handgun Case Gage to check your loaded 10mm Auto ammunition. Dillon offers case gauges for many different cartridges.
http://www.dillonprecision.com/conte...gun_Case_Gages

I totally agree... I use a Dillon 500B Press with Dillon dies and their csse guage here. Never have a problem. You might have a small halo of the projectile but its nothing if you check it wifh calipers, the ones ive had eere not even a bulge. Like is said earlier, if you take your tims and check each one in a case guage youll know what needs fixing and whats good. Somefimes if yoj have "bad" ones, running them through the seater and then the crimping die thereafter usually fixes everything.. if not, the its uaully not a good piece of brass and i just toss it.. good luck.

DASHZNT

[r0sewood]

The bulge is very common with both the .40 and 10mm, really isn't an issue if they chamber fine. However, Lee has a fix for it. It is called the bulge buster, actually you can rig one up yourself if you have a Lee factory crimp die. For their kit, you unscrew the top of the Lee factory crimp die and leave the top open, then you thread in their bushing and put the catch container on top, you replace the shell holder with a push rod type thing and just push them through with your press. You just about need a single stage press to work it though.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/882...s-and-w-45-acp

[Brian Pfleuger]

Originally Posted by r0sewood

The bulge is very common with both the .40 and 10mm, really isn't an issue if they chamber fine. However, Lee has a fix for it. It is called the bulge buster, actually you can rig one up yourself if you have a Lee factory crimp die.

The BUlge Buster is for a different bulge, the one that forms just in front of the case head where it is not supported by the chamber.

This bulge is formed because the bullet is larger than the case and the bullet is effectively "resizing" the case as it's seated.

It's actually more of a ring than a bulge.

Looks like this:

http://www.xdtalk.com/forums/non-xd-...-magazine.html

The bulge you're talking about looks like this:

http://www.thegunzone.com/glock/case-bulges.html

[r0sewood]

Yes, you are correct, I didn't read his original post well enough to understand his problem.