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Old November 1, 2012, 10:01 AM   #1
elkslayer4x5
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Location: Lane County, Oregon
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.338 Win Mag cases

I'm preparing to load for .338 Win Mag. I'm currently collecting brass as it does'nt seem to be readily avaiable, and have a question about the brass, Lyman 49 advises me to reload the belted mag cases only a few times, my question is where to look for signs of excessive wear, where will trouble first appear? The loaded ammo will be used in only one rifle, so I plan on neck resizing only. First time I've loaded a belted case, anything else I should watch for?
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Last edited by elkslayer4x5; November 1, 2012 at 04:21 PM.
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Old November 1, 2012, 10:18 AM   #2
Mike Irwin
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I've always found that the big problem poing with belted brass comes from brass flowing back towards the belt and creating a small ridge that's virtually impossible to get rid of without a lathe.

If you can, stick to neck sizing your brass only.

Keep your loads to the middle of the road, and you should get some pretty decent life out of your cases.

That said, I really, really, REALLY dislike belted brass. It's a pain.
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Old November 1, 2012, 10:27 AM   #3
elkslayer4x5
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Thanks Mike, helpfull information. As I posted, I plan on only neck sizing, figured that the less I worked the brass the longer it would last, not like I plan on sitting at the bench and firing off 2-3 boxes a weekend with that rifle. Not that I'm recoil shy, just don't want to become so.
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Old November 1, 2012, 11:26 AM   #4
Clark
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I have 7mmRM, 300WM, and 338WM reamers, rifles, and dies.
The brass for all three is about the same, with belts less than .215" from the case head.
Guys that know more than me are getting good results from
http://www.larrywillis.com/
I have one, but it does not work on super hot loaded brass. They are still a one shot deal.
For wimpier loads, the thing to remember is to keep brass segregated to one rifle. Or you will need that Willis collet die to get the brass fired in the looser chamber to fit in the tighter chamber.
It is kind of like the 40 S&W Glock bulge.
There is a region of the case that is protected from resizing by the shadow of the die opening chamfer and/or the shell holder top.
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Old November 1, 2012, 10:22 PM   #5
jheidrick
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Clark, could you please help me out?

Hi Clark, I saw your post on the 1903 Turk sporter and need some help on my project if you don't mind...could you let me know where you found your scope bases and your stock? Thank you!
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Old November 2, 2012, 02:34 AM   #6
Clark
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Most custom Mausers are surplus Military 98 Mausers with the bolt forged over or welded over or both. The receiver is drilled and tapped with 6-48 holes.
Threads on the barrel are cut at 55 degrees.
At Brownells the mount #45 and #46 are the most common 98 Mauser mounts at ~ $5 each retail in Aluminium.
955-010-045WB
#45 Base
Mfr Part: 48045
955-010-046WB
#46 Base
Mfr Part: 48046
At Brownells a Walnut wooden stock is probably the most common plan for restocking at ~ $80 retail.
984-100-098WB
Unfinished Mauser 98 Stock

But that is not what I did a month ago.
I put a Shilen stainless #3 taper 6.5mm barrel blank on a Parker Hale [Santa Barbara] receiver, reamed it out with a .260 Remington reamer. I cut the threads at 60 degrees. I put it in a High Tech Specialties stock [Bansner] with 5/8" pillar in the front and 1/2" pillar in the rear. I used a one piece EGW mount. I epoxied a pine plug into the butt of the stock and screwed on a Large grind to fit Limbsaver recoil pad and did not grind. I did not shorted the stock for pull, but left it long for prone shooting.
It is the rifle in the rear.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Three rifles ready to test fire 10-11-2012.jpg (71.4 KB, 5 views)
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Old November 2, 2012, 01:17 PM   #7
temmi
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I have a 338WM and I reload the cases about 8 times then toss them

I have had to use the Belted Magnum Collet Resizing Die one or two times.

http://www.larrywillis.com/

I use a bent paper clip to check for wear

Snake
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