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Old October 13, 2012, 06:24 PM   #1
blueglass
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cleaning my first/new 1911

i have a shiny new springfield trp (my first gun) & want to use the right materials to clean it. i've heard good things about simple green & balistol. what else is there & why would you recommend the product? input is greatly appreciated.
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Old October 13, 2012, 06:33 PM   #2
qwiksdraw
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Ballistic is good stuff, I also use Safari Charlie's. Both do an excellent job.
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Old October 13, 2012, 07:56 PM   #3
Sheriff Gotcha
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I use Ballistol exclusively and it works really well for me. Give it a whirl its inexpensive for the size can you get.
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Old October 13, 2012, 07:56 PM   #4
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Hoppes #9. Don't get over-complicated with the plethora of options for cleaning nowadays. Hoppes has been around forever and works great.
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Old October 13, 2012, 08:37 PM   #5
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I love Eezox. Works fantastic. good for cleaning, preserving and lubing.
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Old October 14, 2012, 11:03 AM   #6
Nanuk
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Quote:
Hoppes #9. Don't get over-complicated with the plethora of options for cleaning nowadays. Hoppes has been around forever and works great.
Novel concept.
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Old October 14, 2012, 11:06 AM   #7
Amsdorf
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Ballistol.

I like to use foaming bore cleaning on my barrel.

Don't be put off by all the silly "best cleaner" debates.

Keep in mind these are tools, built to take hard use. They are not surgical instruments requiring sterilization between uses.

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Old October 14, 2012, 11:42 PM   #8
wingspar
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I remember helping my father clean his guns with Hoppe’s 9 when I was 5. I’m 66 now, and still use the stuff. Nothing special cause it’s a 1911. You are still cleaning powder residue. These kind of threads tend to go on for pages and pages with everything under the sun recommended by the end. Ballistol is good stuff too. So are a lot of other products.
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Old October 15, 2012, 07:22 AM   #9
g.willikers
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Lazy man way to clean steel guns:
Soak in mineral spirits (paint thinner) for about a half hour, swish around real good and blow dry with air compressor.
Or just let it air dry for awhile.
If you're really picky you can use a brush and do some scrubbing.
Lube and go buy or load ammo for the next time.
Plenty good enough unless it's going to be stored and not used again for a long time.
But that's not going to happen, is it?
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Old October 15, 2012, 08:23 AM   #10
Dashunde
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As long as you us ordinary gun cleaners, what you clean it with is less important than how you put it back together.

Google or youtube the phrase "1911 idiot scratch" to see what your trying to avoid.
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Old October 15, 2012, 08:33 AM   #11
Nathan
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I wrote this before and it still applies today: link

I still have no clear bore solvent of choice. I have used some gel, Shooter's Choice and Butches Bore Shine. . .all with good results. Just make sure it is labeled to break down copper, lead and carbon. It likely won't do a good enough job with lead, but the Weapons Shield will.

This setup will require a little work on your part, but you will have minimal junk! BTW, throw the extras with the cleaning rod away. There is no use for that stuff!
Weapon's Shield Link Weapon's Shield is generally only available online, but regardless of what gun buddies, range hero's, gun club experts or ex-GI's tell you, nothing else is in the same class! Break Free CLP is not a terrible second place choice.
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Old October 15, 2012, 09:58 AM   #12
tmorone
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#9 is tried and true...

I've recently converted to FrogLube and prefer that nowdays. It's a CLP rather than just a solvent and non-toxic/bio safe. Plus, it smells like wintergreen
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Old October 16, 2012, 09:59 PM   #13
WESHOOT2
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if you insist

Gun: Gun Scrubber, brake cleaner, MPro7.

Barrel: RB17, KLEEN-BORE Lead-Away cloth.

Afterwards: BreakFree CLP (as lube), Corrosion X (as preservative).
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Old October 17, 2012, 11:33 AM   #14
Fishbed77
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Hoppes #9 to clean.

Breakfree CLP or plain ol' gun oil to lube/protect.

No need for anything else.
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Old October 17, 2012, 12:48 PM   #15
Nathan
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Brake Cleaner or Gun Scrubber

I have used these before and they will rinse a part bone dry. Then you should reoil, but how often do you hear the advice to spray out the inards and add a few drops of oil after? Without a full detail strip and reoil, it is my opinion that these can remove more oil than normal oiling can replace, especially on an at or th like.

So now I prefer a non-deoiling cleaning method like, scrub with CLP, wipe as clean as I can wipe, then reapply CLP.

I would rather have a bit of unseen dirt with oil carrying it from harms way than a bone dry spot which I don't reoil.
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Old October 17, 2012, 02:15 PM   #16
ClydeFrog
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John Moses Browning...

If you are the proud owner of a new 1911a1 series .45acp, I'd suggest a few of these items....

www.Brownells.com www.weaponshield.com www.natchezss.com www.gunzilla.us www.eezox.com www.mpro7.com (LPX) www.midwayusa.com www.cabelas.com www.galls.com

Many shooters & gun owners use; Hoppes #9 bore cleaner, Viper bore-snakes(for barrel cleaning), Birchwood-Casey Synthetic Gun Cleaner, Ballistol, GI(OD) tooth brushes, clean, lint free patches or cloth, a 1911 tool(for minor repairs, service, etc).
A decent synthetic CLP(clean-lube-protect) product like Gunzilla, Weaponshield or LPX can aid you in general cleaning/storage.
I've used Ballistol often since the mid 1990s. It's great for rubber, plastic, wood, metal. It's also non-toxic/CFC free.
If you are new to firearms or shooting sports, I'd get a print copy of Brownells product catalog. They also have a detailed 1911 pistol parts-product catalog too.
NOTE: do not over-clean or use a lot of CLP/oil on your semi-auto pistol. This may cause problems or jams later on. A small amount or light spray will do the job. Excessive oils/cleaning products and improper methods are some of the most common errors professional gunsmiths or LE armorers see in factory training classes or career development programs.

Always check your pistol BEFORE you load or carry it for protection too. Dirt, crud or a broken part isnt something you should find in a critical incident.

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Old October 18, 2012, 11:59 PM   #17
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Only thing I use is Hoppes#9 and breakfree clp. When I was still enlisted all we ever used was brekfree clp. If its good enough to keep a ma deuce running in a desert enviroment its good enough for my guns.
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Old October 19, 2012, 09:05 AM   #18
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Plus one on Bacardisteve's comments. If you want another cheap but very effective regimen, try Ed's Red; it's home made and was devised by American Riflemans' Dope Bag contributer, Ed Harris. Here's the formula, tho a search on google will give it to you as well:

Equal parts by volume of: Automatic Transmission Fluid Dextron, Kerosene, Acetone, and Paint Thinner (or Turpentine). This will clean well, tho it won't remover copper. For a lubricant, divert a cpl oz. of the ATF and Kerosene. I buy the ingredients in the quart size, and mix them in a Gasoline Can...The old Coleman lantern fuel cans are ideal.

I've used it for all of my short and long guns over the years, and have found that over a period of months of steady use, it seems to reduce the amount of fouling of any type that's left in the bore.

HTH's Rod
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Old October 26, 2012, 04:17 PM   #19
pete2
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Breakfree CLP or Hoppe's #9. Of late I use CLP for cleaning and lube. I do add a little grease on the rails, lubriplate works fine.
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