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#1 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: January 10, 2012
Posts: 1,587
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shooting lead bullets in a rifle ?
what is the pro's and con's of shooting lead bullets in a rifle ?
I am asking about 357 mag rounds. |
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#2 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: September 19, 2008
Posts: 3,275
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Pro:
* Can be less expensive to shoot than jacketed boolits, ergo, more bang for the buck. * Can be more accurate than jacketed, with proper loads, lubes & bore cleaning. Con: * Usually must be driven slower then jacketed boolits or suffer swift bore leading/fouling * May not hold together sufficiently for adequate penetration larger game like deer if the lead mixture's soft enough to expand; or pencil through if they're cast very hard. * For best accuracy, the bore MUST be scrubbed clean of any previous fouling from jacketed boolits. (And visa-versa, of course) * If your .357 rifle is a levergun, most flat-nosed, Keith-style, square-shouldered lead boolits may not feed very well from the magazine of some rifles. * Depending upon your involvement & wallet, lead melting & boolit casting can end up taking up a LOT of time & equipment - but pre-cast boolits are also commercially available, too. . |
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#3 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: June 16, 2008
Location: Wyoming
Posts: 8,603
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I don't shoot anything but lead in my Marlin 357 and I don't underload them.
They are the same full house loads I load in my Model 29, that being 14.5 grns of 2400 and 150 grn LSWC bullets. Zero problems supper accurate. If there is a disadvantage I haven't found it. As as a side note, I also shoot lead bullets in most of my other rifles. Including gas guns.
__________________
Kraig Stuart CPT USAR Ret USAMU Sniper School Oct '78 Distinguished Rifle Badge 1071 |
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#4 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: July 17, 2007
Location: Salina, KS.
Posts: 174
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It is an awfully easy shooting round when loaded for plinking. I'll also add to the above that lead is something you learn how to load, or suffer the consequences. Sizing, lubes and alloy need to be pretty specific for certain needs. I feel that once my lead shooting gun is broken in, there is less fouling overall and certainly less wear and tear on the barrel. My 10 year old 357 Marlin has way over 20,000 rounds, and is going stronger than ever. Its been firelapped, and is very accurate with my plinking load of 6gr. of Unique with a 158gr. bullet or a Beartooth WFN lookalike for hunting. Incidentally, it kills very well...
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#5 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: January 17, 2012
Posts: 5
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i have a 45acp ar15 upper that i run 185 lead swc on top of 3gr of clays in. i love this combo! it is now one of my more favorite rifle to shoot, and it is also one my daughter's favorites. that means i dont know how much longer it will be mine.....bill
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#6 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: January 10, 2012
Posts: 1,587
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Quote:
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#7 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: December 26, 2004
Location: Louisville KY
Posts: 11,718
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Just use gas checks.
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#8 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: June 1, 2004
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 1,182
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Shot some Hornady 158 grain LSWC's over 5 grains of Universal today in my Handi rifle. With open sights from a rest 3 shots went 3-1/2" at 100 yards. Very quiet - no sonic crack and low recoil. I might have to put a scope on it and see how accurate they really are.
Just plain fun I guess. |
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#9 |
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Member
Join Date: May 20, 2010
Location: The Cowboy State
Posts: 45
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Leading is more often caused by using bullets not properly sized to the throat and bore. In most cases .001 over bore is needed. Leading is a result of gas cutting. Gas passing around an undersized bullet leaves droplets of hot lead in the bore. If you are going to shoot lead measure your throat and bore to find the correct bullet size. If you cast your own bullets you can change alloys lubes or gas checks to get the right bullets. Most handgun bullets cast from WW metal [BHN12] can provide a bullet for 1,500 fps. Gas Checks are for the most part a waste of money in handgun bullets. I use Gas Checks in pure linotype bullets at speeds above 1,500 fps up to 2,200 in .30 cal loadings. Bullets can be cast to provide about any results you want. The lead bullets have downed every kind of game and won many 1,000 yards matches.
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#10 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: August 26, 2008
Location: 1B ID
Posts: 5,396
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Quote:
__________________
"Such is the strange way that man works -- first he virtually destroys a species and then does everything in his power to restore it." |
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#11 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: September 15, 2007
Posts: 776
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I cast the Lyman 358 "cowboy" bullet with the huge, single, grease groove, and a slightly beveled base, and lube with a homemade lube of yellow beeswax, olive oil, crisco, and a little canola oil. I made the lube for blackpowder, and had really good results in that application. In the 357 mag using 2400 powder it is spectactular. No fouling whatsoever. Just a dry patch thru the bore after shooting. Occasionally a dry brush for a few strokes followed by a dry patch.
The added benefit is that when I shoot the rifle, people downwind say the smell reminds them they want McDonald's french fries. People I don't even know down wind from me frequently and without provocation tell their buddys they crave McDonalds. I smile inside! |
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#12 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: June 1, 2004
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 1,182
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I 'butter' the bores on my 30-30, .357 and .45 Colt carbines. After cleaning and drying I wet a tight fitting patch with liquid Alox (LLA) and give that several passes down the bore. They are used only with lead bullets lubed with LLA and at medium pressures. Leading virtually disappears. Clean the bore with mineral spirits.
Add a vegetable fiber wad behind the bullet and you have a low smoke, super clean burning target load. I can easily go 100 rounds or more without cleaning. |
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#13 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: February 18, 2008
Posts: 1,552
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Is Break Free adequate for removing lead in any rifle such as the Romanian M-69 .22 Trainer, or is it better to use the very strong Hoppe's #9?
Most of the ammo tends to be Blazer etc. Last edited by Ignition Override; September 7, 2012 at 05:19 AM. |
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#14 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: October 14, 2009
Location: Sunshine and Keystone States
Posts: 3,398
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Quote:
__________________
My guns include S&W and Colt revolvers, Colt and Ruger pistols, Remington 870 shotgun, Henry and Marlin .22LR rifles, Hi-Point 9mm carbine and Lancaster Arms AK. I reload handgun rounds with a Lee hand press, over 18K rounds since Nov. 2009 with nary a squib nor kaboom.
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#15 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: February 2, 2007
Location: Iowa
Posts: 2,553
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Quote:
To the OP, buy some and give it a try. Not really any reason not too. |
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#16 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: August 26, 2008
Location: 1B ID
Posts: 5,396
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Quote:
Get the lead out when you see it. Don't make things worse for yourself, based on an old myth.
__________________
"Such is the strange way that man works -- first he virtually destroys a species and then does everything in his power to restore it." |
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#17 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: September 13, 2005
Posts: 2,585
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Also-and here the CAS shooters should have a lot to add-depending on the make and vintage of your 357 rifle, lead bullets may not shoot that well. Marlin changed from MicroGroove to Ballard rifling for just that reason.
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#18 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 4, 2001
Posts: 6,573
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Is Break Free adequate for removing lead in any rifle such as the Romanian M-69 .22 Trainer, or is it better to use the very strong Hoppe's #9?
Hoppe's will do somewhat a better or faster job, but to remove leading from a .22 barrel you also need to use a bronze bore brush with the solvent. No bore solvent that's remotely safe to use around humans can "dissolve" leading. Removal takes some time and a brush. For larger bores, you can buy a Lewis Lead Remover kit from Brownell's. These are available for pistols and for rifles. They don't make one for .22, but if you own a larger caliber rifle or pistol you shoot with lead bullets, a Lewis kit is almost a necessity for good maintenance. The Lewis kit removes leading quickly and without any risk to the bore. As a matter of fact shooting a few jacketed rounds after shooting bare lead can remove some minimal fouling. This can also blow a ring or bulge in the barrel. When a jacketed bullet is fired down a leaded bore, the bullet has to try to force most of the leading out in front of it. If the leading is just a little too heavy the bullet can't push it out of the way fast enough and the high pressures can bulge or ring the bore. People get away with doing this for years, then they shoot a different load or shoot just a little more then normal and are shocked to find a bulge in the barrel. |
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#20 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: January 10, 2012
Posts: 1,587
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Also you can take pure copper from a scrubbing pad and wrap it around a used brass brush to remove lead from your barrel. Poor boys can be found is grocery stores, make sure is says 100% copper.
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#21 |
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Staff
Join Date: November 2, 1998
Location: Colorado
Posts: 15,418
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I think what Reb was referring to is Chore Boy. I use it myself. Poor Boy to me is the muzzle loading, iron mounted, Southern rifle that is devoid of any fancy features found on the longrifle. The fancier ones do have a buttplate and even a metal patchbox.
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Vigilantibus et non dormientibus jura subveniunt. Molon Labe! |
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#22 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: August 26, 2008
Location: 1B ID
Posts: 5,396
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Aye, Chore Boy. Don't use off-brands. Most (if not all) are copper-washed steel. The only pure copper version I have found is the actual Chore Boy brand.
Works great. I don't even bother with other methods, any more.
__________________
"Such is the strange way that man works -- first he virtually destroys a species and then does everything in his power to restore it." |
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