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Old August 20, 2012, 06:10 PM   #1
Kotaclem
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Tikka T3 broken bolt.. help

[IMG][/IMG]i have a Tikka T3 in a 223 AI and I have broken the back part of the bolt. it is where the handle fits on the bolt. I either need the piece put back on or a new bolt assembly. Or a whole new bolt if I could find one. any help would be greatly appreciated. It was silver soldered once but it did not hold.[IMG][/IMG]

Last edited by Kotaclem; August 21, 2012 at 07:38 PM. Reason: to add pictures
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Old August 20, 2012, 07:12 PM   #2
mete
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That handle was brazed on like some other makers do .I'd contact Tikka [Beretta] first .You could find a gunsmith to braze it properly .
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Old August 20, 2012, 08:07 PM   #3
Kotaclem
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It is not the handle it is the back of the bole that holds the handle
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Old August 21, 2012, 01:12 AM   #4
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A photo would clarify it for me.
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Old August 21, 2012, 07:49 PM   #5
Kotaclem
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I got a hold of bretta to day thay want 500to 600 for a new bolt so I nead tu get it fixed
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Old August 22, 2012, 06:31 AM   #6
mete
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Try to find a gunsmith who's a very good welder and have him weld it.
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Old August 22, 2012, 08:20 AM   #7
dahermit
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Quote:
silver soldered once but it did not hold.
Are you sure that you used "silver solder"? Or, was it "soft solder". True silver solder requires the metal parts to reach red heat. If the solder you used did not require red heat, the part was only soft soldered and certainly would not hold. If you do not know the difference between silver solder and soft solder, you should take it to someone who does (a gunsmith).
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Old August 22, 2012, 09:41 AM   #8
mete
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Soft Silver Solder melts at about 400 F it's about 95Sn-5Ag and it's often used to solder stainless steel as it stays shiney.It's not a high strength solder.
Hard Silver Solder is a high strength BRAZE ["solder " is used but is a poor term and often leads to confusion !] Melting points of about 1100 F or higher.

Braze or welding requires knowledge of the heat effect of the weld on the bolt .Front of the bolt must be kept cool and post braze/weld should be tempered.
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Old August 22, 2012, 10:11 AM   #9
Kotaclem
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I didnt do it I sent it to a person that didit. Do you know where I can get it fixed.
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Old August 22, 2012, 11:29 AM   #10
dahermit
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Quote:
Braze or welding requires knowledge of the heat effect of the weld on the bolt .Front of the bolt must be kept cool and post braze/weld should be tempered.
Or use a heat-stop paste that will keep the heat from conducting towards the locking lugs. The paste is frequently used by gunsmiths when forging bolt handles or welding on bolt handles. It is available from Brownell's or from most welding supply shops.
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Old August 22, 2012, 07:02 PM   #11
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Well, the handle obviously slides into a dovetail. Tighten the dovetail, tap the handle into it, let a good welder TIG a spot on the end, then polish the weld smooth with the surface. I will say that I have used the Brownells lo-temp and hi-temp silver bearing solders on a number of repairs. Properly applied never had anything come loose like sights and scope mounts. Supposed to have a shear strength of something like 25,000 lbs or so, not in shop to double check numbers. The trick to soldering, from silver brazing on down, is to have the surfaces CLEAN and to not overheat the metal. Takes experience. GW
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Old August 22, 2012, 08:31 PM   #12
Kotaclem
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Can you do it GW
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Old August 25, 2012, 08:59 PM   #13
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Well, I finally moved everything over on my screen and saw the break you spoke of. That is a defect in the bolt body and the manufacturer should make it good. Raise heck with 'em and send it back. GW
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