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Old August 4, 2012, 11:12 PM   #26
Whitetail99
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I ment .270 win idk why or how that happened. Sorry for the confusion.
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Old August 5, 2012, 04:22 PM   #27
Lost Sheep
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Welcome to the forum and thanks for asking our advice.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Whitetail99
Ok just to clarify. What do I need to go with the lee classic?
Thanks for baring with me! I've prob. Really got on y'alls nerves asking some really stupid questions.
A notebook so you can keep track of your loads' performances.

A mallet. Not a hammer. Brass is the hardest metal you want to be hitting the steel dies with and rawhide, wood, plastic or hard rubber is better. Really hard rubber.

A scale. The one powder dipper that comes with the kit severely limits your power and powder options. Besides, consistency of powder charge is important to accuracy. If your technique is good, you can dip accurately with a dipper, but how can you really tell how consistent your performance with the dipper is? You can count the granules or you can weigh the results. 0.1 grain minimum resolution. Some electronic scales only tell you to 0.2 grains. (Grain is a unit of weight, not granule count - 7000 grains equals 1 pound) If my post seem simplistic, remember, I have no idea of your experience level and others of all experience levels will be reading this thread.

Calipers. Measuring the length of your loaded cartridge is important, The length of the case, too and the diameter of the bullet. Also, one of the important "tells" for brass wearing out or pressures being too high is casehead expansion and other things. You have to be able to measure to 0.001"

A block of wood so you don't dent your work surface, especially if you are using household furniture.

A loading block or two. If you load 50 cases at a time, put one loading block (the receiving block) on one side of your work area and the other (the supplying block) on the other side. As you process each case through the step you are performing, place it the receiving block. I put primed cases with the primers up so I can give them a mass inspection (I also feel the primer with my finger immediately after seating to ensure it is seated just below flush) for a last verification. Cases charged with powder started out primer-side up (to ensure they are empty) and end up in the receiving block case-mouth up and get a mass inspection by with a strong light to ensure all are charged with the same depth of powder.

All this shuffling around (the loading "algorithm") is designed to minimize the chance of a botched or missed step and to maximize efficiency. Some handloaders copy an algorithm (or method/procedure/whatever) from their mentor or design their own their own personal style. I have given you the center of mine.

A dropcloth (cloth, not plastic, which is noisy, doesn't drape well, lets primers roll around too easily and collects static electricity which may cause powder spills to scatter) makes cleanup and finding dropped stuff much easier. Get one twice as large as you want, spread it completely out, under your worktable and chair and 5 feet further, at least. A dropped primer can hit the edge of your chair and bounce quite far. (And don't EVER say "I will pick it up later".)

Every experienced handloader has not one, but a library of handloading manuals available to him/her. At least all that will volunteer a book count. That is, no one with more than 5 years experience has ever publicly admitted to owning only one. The early chapters of almost all manuals have their early chapters devoted to the "how tos" and the "whys" of handloading. Written by different authors with different writing styles some will tread aspects of loading with different emphasis than others. Multiple coverage of subjects ensures you get a variety of viewpoints and what one may cover thinly, others will cover thoroughly. The "ABCs of Handloading" contains no load recipes, but is a good introduction to the activity, as its sole purpose is to teach the subject. I am told that recent editions are scarier than 20 year old issues. "ABCs" is compiled by editors of many different authors and re-published anew every few years. Check for older editions at your local library or used book store.

Your shooting glasses will do for eye protection, but I keep a dedicated pair for reloading. Bigger lenses. If I used the Lee Classic Loader all the time, I would probably spring for a full face shield. I have never set off a primer while loading (with the Lee Loader or with any press), but have testimony that some have. I would wear a strong leather glove, too. Safety first.

About setting off primers. While it is extremely unlikely for you to light one up while loading it would be educational to load up an empty case with a primer, chamber it and fire it. You will get an idea of how powerful and noisy it is (out of a barrel it will be quieter). Fold a paper towel in quarters and hang it over your muzzle. Have a look at the embedded products of combustion and feel the amount of grit. Imagine that in your eye, the skin of your cheek or even just your hand.

Reloading isn't rocket science or even bomb disposal, but it does involve smoke and flame and things that go very fast. Know what can go wrong, take appropriate precautions and go forth. Millions have done so before.

A chronograph would be nice (can be had for under $100) but probably is not in your budget. But eventually you will want one, trust me.

That's all I can think of right now. I will repeat the list.

Scale
Manual(s)
Mallet
Eye protection
Piece of wood to take the inevitable dents
Calipers
Notebook
Loading Blocks
Dropcloth

Good luck.

Lost Sheep

p.s. You did not ask for this advice, but I will offer it anyway. Add up the cost of 15 boxes of ammunition at retail over-the-counter price. Add up the cost of the Lee Classic Loader (and the accessories I have listed) plus powder, bullets, primers and 50 brass cases (enough to make those same 300 rounds). Add up the cost of a Press and accessories plus the powder, bullets, primers and cases). Compare the three figures. Not so far apart, are they? Then consider the convenience of a press vs the small size of the Lee Classic Loader (again, with the accessories).

Having said that, I have a Classic Loader for every caliber I load for. I never use them any more. The press is so much faster and more convenient for me. But when I add a caliber (and loading dies for my press), I always add a Classic Loader. I don't really know why.

Lost Sheep

Last edited by Lost Sheep; August 5, 2012 at 04:29 PM.
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Old August 5, 2012, 04:45 PM   #28
tekarra
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I started with a Lee Classic Loader and would not recommend buying one. Instead, buy an inexpensive single stage press, dies and a few other accessories. You will buy them sooner than later, so invest in them now rather than the Classic.
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Old August 5, 2012, 06:06 PM   #29
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Quote:
Having said that, I have a Classic Loader for every caliber I load for. I never use them any more. The press is so much faster and more convenient for me. But when I add a caliber (and loading dies for my press), I always add a Classic Loader.
Impossible for me to do this. The Lee Loader selection is very limited and I reload for far more calibers than what is made by Lee. Either Present or past.

Yes, by all means use a mallet instead of a hammer. When I don't use a mallet I use a hammer handle. Works just fine.

IMO all the other items are just gravy on the taters.
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Old August 5, 2012, 07:14 PM   #30
CharlieDeltaJuliet
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I still use my Lee Classic for my .308's and my 50 bmg loads... I love it, but it can be slow.
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Old August 6, 2012, 08:20 PM   #31
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Quote:
Just noticed something, where did you find a Lee Loader in 270 WSM caliber? There is a total difference between 270 Winchester and the 270 WSM cartridges.
Yes, do make sure you get the right Loader for your cartridge.

For the Lee Loader, you need a plastic-headed hammer and a funnel (unless they come with them- I forget) and you'll want a digital scale if you use any charges that vary from the dipper-full. And it's not necessary to get an expensive scale, in fact, I use a $5 unit from Harbor Freight. I check mine frequently with a new Yankee 25-cent piece, which weighs 0.2 ounces avoirdupois or 5.67 grams.

Also, Lee's own handbook would be ideal because he has a ton of information, including the full rundown on using the Loader, it's inexpensive and covers more calibers than practically anybody's.

I used a Lee Loader for... years, and got consistently excellent results hunting with my reloads. In fact, I didn't even know at the time just how good the accuracy was; I thought everybody's handloads were that good.

Nothing wrong with the Lee Loader.

Dave
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Old August 6, 2012, 08:48 PM   #32
Joe Rush
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I agree with WARNERWH. get online and find a used RCBS single stage Rockchucker. You can pick them up for under $50, they are beefier than Lee's stuff and are simple.

If you just starting you have to at least have a good scale, and good load data. Research your loads. Just because your buddy uses it in his gun, has never been good enough for me. I value my guns, health and life better than most of my friends do.

Joe
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Old August 7, 2012, 02:14 PM   #33
Whitetail99
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I know what u mean joe. I don't feel like losing a face. Im talking to a guy any a rockchucker kit whit some powder and a couple of extra things that he bought sepereatly. He's asking 300 is that a good price?
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Old August 7, 2012, 02:30 PM   #34
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Not sure how good of a deal that is not knowing all of the stuff that is coming with the kit.

On another not the Lee Breech Lock Challenger Kit will do all that you ask, and at 1/3 the price of the RCBS kit. $104 add a manual, and dies. Oh and powder, primers, projectiles, and brass. For less than what you are paying for just the kit you can be loading.

I have been using the Lee Breech Lock Challenger press for over 3 years. I have loaded over 45 thousand rounds on it. I load everthign from hand gun to rifle. I also use it to reform cases for 2 different calibers. Flimsy it is not. If I am puting so much pressure that the press would break, I am doing something wrong. Yes some rounds when reforming take some force, none of them enough to break the press. I once ripped the wood on my bench reforming, though thicker wood, and some washers added no problems since.
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Old August 7, 2012, 06:05 PM   #35
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..absolutely Yes...!

Hi Whitetail99.....YES! I loaded with my Lee Classic
in .303 for about a year; then I decide to buy a single stage press. It is very
easy to load with the kit. you only need primers, powder and bullets, and a hunk of wood.
Have fun;

Tony
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Old August 14, 2012, 07:54 PM   #36
Whitetail99
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Problem solved! I traded for $580 dollars worth of reloading gear. Thank y'all so much!!!!
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Old August 14, 2012, 08:29 PM   #37
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What did you get? I was about to also recommend a used single stage press (preferably RCBS but any bench mount is going to be so much easier to use that the wack-a-mole)

I started with a rockchucker, a 5-0-5 scale and a set of dies. I would pour powder into a cereal bowl and tap tap tap powder into the scale with a spoon. Later in our teeny duplex I mounted the Rockchucker to an apt size table that barely fit into the bedroom closet and let me shut the doors. Then I would pull it out on weekends into the living room to load.

You know where this is going! It is very satisfying (and economical) to load your own ammo so consequently, it is very addictive. The economy is poor, grandpas reloading gear can be had for pennies on the dollar at yard sales. Buy all the good deals you can even if not your caliber and trade it off on the gun boards for stuff you can use. This has been working very well for me.

Welcome to the reloading world. You're a minority now. I read that only 3% of gunowners (worldwide) hand load their own ammo. Read everything you can get your hands on, ask questions. fwiw, I have 11 load manuals. Even old manuals are good because they have good articles in them and if you load your own ammo, your friends will know it and you may be bequeathed someones old powder in the original containers...then you'll have data for it in the old manuals. It's happened to me a couple times now. How about a couple pics?
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Old August 15, 2012, 12:19 PM   #38
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Lee reloading on the cheap

I have two of the Lee Breech Lock hand presses

See at: http://leeprecision.com/reloading-presses/single-stage/
(scroll down)

This tool is really handy for short runs, de-capping, resizing, etc. I use a Lee Classic Turret Press, often in single-stage mode, and all work.

You'll like the Lee Breech Lock for quiet operations at 2:00 AM!
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Old August 15, 2012, 07:48 PM   #39
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Started with a Lee Classic in 30-30. Loaded about 20 rounds and got my RCBS Rock chucker. Purchased the rock chucker in 1975 still no signs of wear.

Picked up a junior with dies and accessories for 25 dollars. for my son.

I like the single stage presses for rifle rounds.
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Old August 18, 2012, 05:49 PM   #40
Lost Sheep
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Some research

I have compiled a few web sites that seem to have some good information (only some of which came from me).

Go get a large mug of whatever you sip when you read and think and visit these sites.


Sticky-contains much general information.
http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=230171

Sticky-contains much general information.
http://thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=238214

"Newby needs help." (A typical new reloader thread). My posts are 11 and 13
http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=430391

"Just bought my first press. Needs some info tho." (A typical new reloader thread)
http://thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=659358

"I am looking at getting into reloading for the first time" (A typical new reloader thread)
http://thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=658971

"Considering reloading" (A typical new reloader thread)
http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=488115

"Interested in reloading" (A typical new reloader thread)
http://rugerforum.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=13543

"Is the lee classic loader a good starter loader?" A thread from someone considering the Mallet-driven Lee Classic Loader.
http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=497313

"Lee Classic Loader Kit" My post, Minimalist minimal is the seventh post down.
http://rugerforum.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=107332

"45 Colt question-Lee loader" Another Lee Classic Loader thread
http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=498638

"Best starter kit?"
http://rugerforum.net/reloading/3325...beginners.html

"To kit or not to kit?" That is the question. My thread. Hard to read apparently
http://rugerforum.net/reloading/33660-kit-not-kit.html

Informed by my 2010 repopulation of my loading bench (If I knew in '75 what I know now)
http://rugerforum.net/reloading/2938...andloader.html

Thoughts on The Lee Classic Turret Press
http://rugerforum.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=135951


Use what type of scale? (poll)
http://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=448410

Good luck

Lost Sheep
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Old August 21, 2012, 04:13 PM   #41
Whitetail99
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Here is what comes with the kit

RCBS Rock Chucker Supreme Master Kit (RCBS 9361) $319.99
Included in kit
- Rock Chucker Supreme Single Stage press
- 505 scale
- Uniflow Powder Measure
- Speer Reloading Manual
- Hand priming tool with small and large primer plugs
- Folding Hex Key Set with 0.050", 1/16", 5/64", 3/32", 7/64", 1/8", 9/64" and 5/32" keys
- Universal Case Loading Block, which holds 40 cases in most rifle and pistol calibers
- Case Lube Kit, which includes a 2 oz bottle of Case Lube-2, a case lube pad, 2 case neck brushes for .22 through .30 calibers and an accessory handle
- Powder Funnel for .22 to .45 caliber, including the Winchester Short Magnum calibers
- Chamfer and deburring tool for .17 through .60 caliber

RCBS Rocker Chucker Shell Holders QTY 4
- Shell Holder #4 - 7MM Rem Mag, 300Win Mag, 338 Win Mag ( RCBS 9204) $6.99
- Shell Holder #10 - 17 Rem, 222 Rem, 223 Rem (RCBS 9210) $6.99
- Shell Holder #3 - 308 Win, 30-06 Springfield,45 ACP (RCBS 9203 ) $6.99
- Shell Holder #27 - 357 Sig, 40 S&W, 10MM Auto (RCBS 9227) $6.99


Other items
Frankford Arsenal Quick-N-EZ Case Tumbler Master Kit with EZ Rotary Media Separator 110 Volt (414369) $69.99
RCBS Swagger Tool Kit (RCBS 9841) $42.99
Frankford Arsenal Digital Caliper (604242) $18.49
Frankford Arsenal 30oz Bottle Brass Polish (472108) $27.99
Frankford Arsenal 8lbs of Brass Cleaning Media (730107) $14.99
Frankford Arsenal 12 oz Bottle of Case Lube (204960) $12.99
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Old August 21, 2012, 04:28 PM   #42
Whitetail99
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Not sure how to post pics....
Or I would
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Old August 21, 2012, 07:10 PM   #43
Lost Sheep
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Nice setup

I forget, do you already have the dies?

Note that when Lee Precision sells dies, they come with the $7 shell holder included.

Lee dies are not as nicely finished as RCBS, Redding, Hornady or Lyman, but they do the job as well. Redding is reported to be smoother operating and there are some minor differences, but most loaders find little difference between brands in the finished ammo.

I'm not trying to steer you to or away from any brand. Just suggesting you check them all out.

Lost Sheep
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Old August 21, 2012, 10:34 PM   #44
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Only thing I can see that I do not agree with is the tumbler and media selection.

Quote:
Frankford Arsenal Quick-N-EZ Case Tumbler Master Kit with EZ Rotary Media Separator 110 Volt (414369) $69.99
Above made in china.

http://www.cabelas.com/product/Shoot...3Bcat104661180

Made in the U.S.A. Now before folks start off on chinese made products here we are talking about the same price point with close to the same products, one made in china, other made in the U.S.A.

Plus it also comes with all the tumbling accessories needed.

Another plus for the Cabela's tumbler set is with Cabela's forever customer satisfaction warranty it good forever, not just a year. But then theres a reason chinese products are only warranted for a year, right?

Quote:
Frankford Arsenal 30oz Bottle Brass Polish (472108) $27.99
Forget this, get a bottle of liquid Auto Polish from WalMart or any auto supple store, works just as well Plus it deposits a layer of polish that prevents tarnish, the Frankfort does not. Nu-Finish is one of the favorites, but any liquid auto polish will work just fine.

Quote:
Frankford Arsenal 8lbs of Brass Cleaning Media (730107) $14.99
Really got took here. Media is coarse enough more than likely it will stick in the flash holes and clog up the primer pockets. Here is a better choice which will work just as well if not better and the cost is much lower. Plus it comes freight free.

http://www.drillspot.com/products/52...bs_blast_media

Other than the above recommendations you made good choices, maybe not the brands that I would buy but excellent choices anyway.

Good Luck
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Old August 21, 2012, 10:38 PM   #45
jcwit
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Quote:
Problem solved! I traded for $580 dollars worth of reloading gear. Thank y'all so much!!!!
Well its obvious that money was not an object! Went from a $25.00 wack-o-mo to almost $600.00 of equipment.
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Old August 22, 2012, 07:26 PM   #46
Lost Sheep
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Quote:
Problem solved! I traded for $580 dollars worth of reloading gear. Thank y'all so much!!!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by jcwit
Well its obvious that money was not an object! Went from a $25.00 wack-o-mo to almost $600.00 of equipment.
Equally obvious that you have not been loading for very long if you think it surprising that a $25 budget has any difficulty turning into $500+

Lost Sheep

Quote:
Originally Posted by edit from Lost Sheep
jcwit, Thanks for the PMs. I believe you understand now my intent was humor, but for the benefit of the thread, let me be clear.

My intent was humor and poking fun at (at least at myself) over how much equipment costs can creep up. Witness the "Big Grin" smiley icon.

To the forum, I ask forgiveness for the appearance of being snide or insulting. My intent was entirely playful.

Last edited by Lost Sheep; August 23, 2012 at 08:10 PM.
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Old August 22, 2012, 07:41 PM   #47
jcwit
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Quote:
Equally obvious that you have not been loading for very long if you think it surprising that a $25 budget has any difficulty turning into $500+
Equally obvious that you do not know me at all. Been reloading for 50 years. Mounted presses--6, calibers I reload approx, 40, Firearms I reload for over 70.

Don't claim I know it all, but I'm far from inexperienced.
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