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Old June 12, 2012, 07:54 PM   #26
Huskerguy
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Thanks to everyone

Well, the LNL AP is ordered and on the way. I compared Natchez, Cabela's (low shipping for fathers day) and Midway who has it on sale right now. Turns out there was about $3.00 difference between the three ordering the exact same items. Some good advice on here and I am taking "some" of it.

I ordered the basic set up
Will start with one caliber (9mm) and go from there - no shell plates at Midway BTW so I still need to find one of these
Ordered extra springs for peace of mind
Did order the handgun powder measure and meter - it is good for charges under 5 grains - I load lots of Titegroup and feedback was 100% about this being a good deal and well worth it. They supposedly fixed the numbers being hard to read on it so I guess I will find out
Got the One-shot to clean it down prior to using - I have watched every youtube video I could find
Also picked up the big pack of extra bushings since the price was good.

I will hope the primer slide and springs hold in there as I have read they do go back. People actually weld on the slide. The micrometer stem looks like a good deal but is over twice as much as the basic one. Maybe later

Definitely going to get a powder cop die of some kind. Sounds like RCBS is the way to go. Have not researched it yet.

Oh, and the generic powder funnel as suggested by ks4swb looks like the way to go. Still need to get that baby coming. One funnel does it all and frees up a station.

I always enjoy talking with people on here and getting their input. Appreciate the help everyone. Will let you know how things work out. Someone asked it if this is my first attempt at reloading. No, I have an old pacific single - can't say I have loaded hundreds of thousands but enough to know what I am looking at.

Thanks Again
Huskerguy

Last edited by Huskerguy; June 12, 2012 at 08:19 PM.
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Old June 12, 2012, 08:57 PM   #27
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Sounds good. You'll be glad you bought that big package of bushings later on.

Real quick on powder stop/check dies: RCBS and Hornady both make a similar product (I think RCBS' is called a powder check die and Hornady's is the Powder Cop). These have a rod that rises from the top of the die to indicate the powder level in the charged case. There is a ring or line on the rod that you have to watch.

In my opinion the RCBS Lockout Die is vastly superior. It costs a bit more. It, too, monitors the powder level and a little rod pushes out of the top, but if the die detects a low or high powder level, it locks, preventing you from completing the press cycle. You set it and forget it (there is plenty of other activity going on to occupy your attention).

First time my Lockout Die activated, I had gotten a .357 Magnum case mixed in with the .38 Specials I was loading. I was rolling along when "clunk"-the ram would not go further. Had to stop and investigate until "ah ha". I was sold.

One LNL-AP tip I'd pass along is to make sure you keep the area around the primer shuttle clear of unburned powder, fired primer residue and other stuff. The tolerances are close and even a bit of foreign matter can cause the primer shuttle to stick. l got into the habit of cleaning it out with a can of compressed air every couple hundred rounds. Now that it's worn in a little it doesn't seem as sensitive.

I came from a single stage press, too and had to train myself to push the operating handle FORWARD to prime a case; that was a new movement. I had (ahem) a few loaded rounds with no primers when I started out with the LNL-AP.
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Old June 12, 2012, 10:30 PM   #28
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How much did it all cost you?! And I don't think you got the case feeder right?


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Old June 12, 2012, 10:50 PM   #29
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The press itself is $394.99 through Midway. Like I said, I filled three carts with the same three items including the press and the total cost was nearly the same.

BUT plan on spending a lot more money eventually. You have shell plates, extra pieces, metering stems (various kinds and calibers), bushings, powder die, PTE die, and the list goes on. I started to buy everything I wanted and my cart shot up to nearly $700 in a heartbeat.

Do like others have suggested - get the press and one caliber and learn to use it before moving on. That is my plan

The bottom line is you can spend as much as you want - I never mentioned the digital scale I still need. have fun - I will!

Hey Crunchy - is this the RCBS die you recommend: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/234...er-checker-die
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Old June 12, 2012, 11:54 PM   #30
south.texas.dead.I
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Huskerguy View Post
The press itself is $394.99 through Midway. Like I said, I filled three carts with the same three items including the press and the total cost was nearly the same.

BUT plan on spending a lot more money eventually. You have shell plates, extra pieces, metering stems (various kinds and calibers), bushings, powder die, PTE die, and the list goes on. I started to buy everything I wanted and my cart shot up to nearly $700 in a heartbeat.

Do like others have suggested - get the press and one caliber and learn to use it before moving on. That is my plan

The bottom line is you can spend as much as you want - I never mentioned the digital scale I still need. have fun - I will!

Hey Crunchy - is this the RCBS die you recommend: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/234...er-checker-die
I did all mine through grafs then did it through Midsouth shooters supply and they ended up being a bit cheaper.


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Old June 13, 2012, 06:30 PM   #31
Crunchy Frog
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No, that's the simpler Powder Check Die.

Here's the RCBS Lockout Die: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/536...s-lock-out-die
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Old June 14, 2012, 10:48 PM   #32
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C_F, There are two more powder measure rotor inserts you haven't mentioned: the powder dump (hollow for emptying the measure), and the XXL one they sell for charges in the 200-300gr range (I use one for my fifty). Use one of the Hornady split die rings on your powder drop station and tighten the assembly to snug+ in your press with a wrench. There will be no worries of loosening after that. I can heartily recommend an LED lighting strip over the shell plate. It really helps in spotting minor problems before they become mayor ones.
ETA: Buy a Lee Universal Decapping Die for your AP if you clean cases with SS media. Just put the die in the first station (the rest empty) and go to town.
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Old June 15, 2012, 06:36 AM   #33
Huskerguy
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Quote:
Buy a Lee Universal Decapping Die for your AP if you clean cases with SS media. Just put the die in the first station (the rest empty) and go to town.
Sorry for not getting it - but what is SS and what is the advantage to this?
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Old June 26, 2012, 11:09 PM   #34
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Interesting thread.
I am considering a LnL to add to my Lee Classic Turret. I really like the LCT system, but I am thinking 104 pulls of the lever instead of 400 for each 100 rounds would be a lot easier on my 75 year old arm and shoulder.
I am planning to use my Lee dies and Pro Auto Disk with the LnL, thus I am looking at the press, shellholders for 38 Super/9mm and 45 ACP, plus, the 10 pack of lock rings and the cleaner/lube.
I ALWAYS price everything down thru the freight with all the regular sellers. As you say, there is really not any difference in the total price, BUT, Natches is showing everything in stock, while the others are not.
Let us know how yours works out. You probably have it by now and are too busy to waste your time on the internet.
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Old June 26, 2012, 11:18 PM   #35
Huskerguy
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I have been pretty busy at work and with my family but managed to finally get it all up and running a couple nights ago. I am using all five stations and so far so good. I did about 20 rounds last night and only had one problem I can't figure out - had two rounds with no primers in them. I did have a couple see to hang up at the primer station but eventually went through. It is most likely that I am doing something wrong. I did complicate things with the PTX aftermarket insert someone in this thread suggested. It was a great suggestion, it works very well. I also installed the RCBS lock out die. Still fiddling with it and trying to understand exactly how to adjust it and how it works but if there is no powder or too much it does LOCK UP like it says. So far I would have to say I really like the machine. I have a long ways to go to get proficient at it but in time I think I will get there.
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Old June 27, 2012, 04:00 PM   #36
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When I first set my LNL up I took the time to make sure everything was adjusted for the cartridge I planned to load as for throws on the linkage. I proceeded to run about 300-400 empty shells through and all I was doing was sizing and depriming.

I had no primers or powder in place but I did cycle the press just as I would have if I was loading. Every stroke fully up on the ram cycled the empty powder measure and belled the case and every down stroke on the ram was pushed forward as if I were seating a primer.

I watched the heck out of EVERYTHING happening for a bit and if something didn't feel or look just right I stopped to see what it was.

During those practice strokes I felt like I needed to adjust a couple of things on the press and after those initial 300-400 strokes things were happening pretty smoothly.

The only real problems I have had since were my fault for forgetting to push forward to prime and making a powder mess which was cleaned up quickly with a can of air and a 3" soft paint brush.

I've now loaded somewhere near 10,000 rounds of mixed handgun ammo and have had no problems that were not my fault.

I have bought extra powder measure bottoms so I can leave one set for each caliber and then just drop in the www.powderfunnels.com PTX die and bolt up the measure and not have to reset the linkage.

I loaded many thousands rounds of handgun and rifle ammo for close to 30 years on a single stage RCBS RS5 press and agonized over switching to the LNL or a Dillon for months before I bought the LNL.

All that worry over nothing. Best move I ever made.
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Old June 27, 2012, 04:35 PM   #37
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A question here, and it would probably be pretty apparent if I were sitting at the press.
If your are using four dies, which space do you leave empty?
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Old June 27, 2012, 06:25 PM   #38
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IIRC, with 4 dies, station 2 or 3 could be left empty as long as the powder measure assembly was belling the case mouth. If you seated and crimped at the same station you could leave station 4 or 5 empty however I prefer seating at station 4, but I could be wrong without looking.
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Old June 27, 2012, 06:42 PM   #39
Huskerguy
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k4swb

I did pretty much the same thing as you. I pulled the handle multiple times just to watch things move. Then I put a part on and pulled it some more. Then I tried the de cap/sizing die and ran several 9's through that. Then I add the powder charge with no powder and the after-market expander. I fiddled with the activation of the measure and the flaring of the mouth. From what I can tell, this funnel will work in every handgun caliber I have. Correct?

Then in # 3 I have the lock out die and again, don't full have it all figured out but it seems to work the way it was intended.

In # 4 I have the bullet seating die which is pretty easy to set up.

Lastly, in # 5 I have my Lee FCD for a slight crimp.

I am like you I ran brass through many times over and over. I did make a bone headed mistake when I picked up a piece of brass and deprimed it and eventually tried to put powder in it. I couldn't figure out where this powder was coming from. Duh! no primers were in the machine yet. I wanted to do priming last after most everything was set.

When you say:
Quote:
I have bought extra powder measure bottoms so I can leave one set for each caliber and then just drop in the www.powderfunnels.com PTX die and bolt up the measure and not have to reset the linkage.
Do you mean you replace just the powder insert stem? http://www.midwayusa.com/product/631...ering-assembly

I need to go shot the loads I worked up and get back on the press. Thanks for the words of encouragement. Take care and God Bless
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Old June 28, 2012, 08:10 AM   #40
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Quote:
k4swb

I did pretty much the same thing as you. I pulled the handle multiple times just to watch things move. Then I put a part on and pulled it some more. Then I tried the de cap/sizing die and ran several 9's through that. Then I add the powder charge with no powder and the after-market expander. I fiddled with the activation of the measure and the flaring of the mouth. From what I can tell, this funnel will work in every handgun caliber I have. Correct?
Pretty much.

Quote:
When you say:
Quote:
I have bought extra powder measure bottoms so I can leave one set for each caliber and then just drop in the www.powderfunnels.com PTX die and bolt up the measure and not have to reset the linkage.
Do you mean you replace just the powder insert stem? http://www.midwayusa.com/product/631...ering-assembly
No, this is what you need:http://www.midwayusa.com/product/231...nge-powder-die
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Old July 8, 2012, 04:03 PM   #41
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Husker and k4, how about an update.
Mine should be here tomorrow. Looking forward to it.
I have not ordered a powder cop or lock out die yet. Others have posted that it is very easy to look at the powder in your case before you insert a bullet. I am used to doing this on my LCT, so I am hoping this will not be a lot different.
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Old July 8, 2012, 06:10 PM   #42
Huskerguy
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dickttx

I am all set up and running. I have been pretty busy and haven't had the time to really sit down and work everything through, just a few minutes here and there. I ended up getting the extra pistol rotor for small charges and it works very well. I load Titegroup with loads around and under 4 grains and this was meant for those loads.

I had some primer issues at first I will admit. I finally took everything apart in the priming area and started all over. I took the shuttle out and sanded it smooth, sprayed it with one shot and also sanded the slide it goes in. Checked the alignment of the piece that holds the primer tubes to make certain it is centered. Lastly I checked the adjustment on the top of the machine that moves the arm fore and aft for the primer shuttle to run against. I moved it fully away from me so the primer hole goes past center.

A very small piece of powder can sure slow things down when it gets caught in the primer button on the bottom. It hangs up ever so slightly and catches on the shuttle. Friday I ran about 150 rounds through and had one that didn't prime and one more that didn't full seat the primer. I am guessing the failure to fully seat was my fault. I try to over exaggerate the forward push and seat the primer but may have missed one.

I did discover I need a couple more bins for bullets and brass. That really slows things down not to have them right in front of me. I also set up the RCBS lock out die and it really works well. It does take some messing around with but it also does lock up your press with an empty or a double charge. I tried it just to see and it works.

As I imagined, a progressive is much different. There are a lot of things going on and speed is not my primary goal right now. I am still taking it slow to watch as much as I can each time. You asked about seeing the powder - yes you can but you need really good light and it is hard to get it in the right place. Once I get confident in what is going on I will greatly reduce the amount of time I spend churning out rounds. I would also mention that I do not own anything that takes large primers aside from my 30-06 which I plan to still reload on my old pacific single. Changing shell plates is a piece of cake. Really, it is all pretty simple once you take the time and really study how it works.

Last edited by Huskerguy; July 8, 2012 at 10:25 PM.
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Old July 10, 2012, 06:41 PM   #43
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Husker, does your new press seem to have the same amount of play that mine did as seen in the video in my post? Hornady is telling me it is acceptable. My serial is 39490 if yours is in the ballpark.
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Old July 10, 2012, 06:57 PM   #44
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Received mine yesterday afternoon. This is my initial experience.
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthrea...2&goto=newpost

I never became accustomed to reaching in bins for cases and bullets. Found an old crochet hoop several years ago and I use one ring for bullets and one for brass. You don't have to reach over and down into anything.
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Old July 10, 2012, 07:18 PM   #45
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I've only done 600 rounds in mine. I had primer problems the first time I used it but fixed it with this:

http://youtu.be/aB1cTeRz7sI

I have a powder cop but find the drop to be very reliable and am thinking about adding a bullet feeder. Not the Hornady $300 one but just a feeder die with some PVC pipe. I don't mind feeding cases but dropping in the bullets get monotonous!
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Old July 11, 2012, 08:07 AM   #46
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Ah, yes..
The dreaded grain of powder in the primer shuttle!

The only time I had issues with that was when loading .223 cases to near max load- which fills the case. If you go just a couple of grains too heavy at first by accident, kablooie- powder spill. And, it'll eventually work it's way into the primer shuttle and screw things up.

But I really do like the primer system on the LNL. Because it seats the primer on the downstroke- unlike other presses- there is nothing "else" going on. No sizing, no bullet seating. So, you can actually feel the primer seating correctly. If you get a tight primer pocket and it doesn't seat fully, you easily feel the resistance when the shellplate tries to rotate- and I just work it back by hand and torque on the lever a bit harder.

I just ran a batch of new Prvi 7mm-08 brass- and some of the primer pockets were so tight it was like running military 5.56 brass without decrimping the primer pockets.
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Old July 13, 2012, 10:57 PM   #47
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Remove your primer slide, take a file and lightly chamfer the leading edge of the bottom of the slide to give that one rogue piece of powder somewhere to go. (Polish the rest of the contacting surfaces while you are at it.
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Old July 14, 2012, 12:36 PM   #48
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GREAT idea!
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Old July 15, 2012, 02:31 AM   #49
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It works well and doesn't affect anything. Once you are done with your reload session, slide it back and blow it out.
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Old July 19, 2012, 10:54 AM   #50
jbrow117
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Strong Mount

I mounted my LNL AP on two 4x6 and a Dillion Stong Mount. I bolted it through the mount and 4x6 (2) and the bottom of the bench. This alllowed me to move the press rearward on the bench and stand up while I reload. It also allowed me to put one of the wifes little cake pans under the primer tube and eliminate the long plastic one. Mine works great.
In addition I bought some washers to take up the slop on the movable arms of the press and stop the twisting. I'm not happy about Hornady's tolerancing on some of their components but it works. Oh don't forget a RCBS powder lockout die instead of Hornady's powder cop!
BTW: thanks to all for some of the tips I picked up!
-=-=-=-=-=- ADDED to REPOST=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
DaD said!!!
double charge on lnl ap

I have a Hornady LnL AP
I have accidently double charged a cartridge by not paying attention.
This was accomplished by running case up into powder measure then lowering ram halfway, looking away momentarily, then proceeding to raise it
back up again. Luckily, I have a light pointed down on the area and it was
discovered in time. also using a powder which has enough bulk will help prevent double charges.
DaD
-==-=-=-=-=-=-
Yep or falling asleep and turning plate counter clockwise to fix a primer. Case on .45 can be double charged with W231 (I caught my mistake visually but thus the re-recommendation on the RCBS above which I added at a small cost) See my post in the Stupid mistake thread.
Good thread, Thanks!

Last edited by jbrow117; July 19, 2012 at 11:23 AM.
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