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Old April 20, 2012, 10:46 AM   #26
FlyFish
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something called PTFE which is a Teflon based spray on lube.
PTFE (polytetraflouroethylene) is Teflon, or more properly, Teflon is Dupont's brand name for PTFE. There are lots of lubricants that contain PTFE, but I'm not aware of any that are formulated for case sizing.
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Old April 20, 2012, 10:48 AM   #27
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I dont think I would use Veg oil. It can be stickier than petroleum oil. But you know, It would probably work.
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Old April 20, 2012, 10:50 AM   #28
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I use Dillon's case lube 5000.
Quick easy to use. I wipe rounds after finished loading.
Hate pads, clumsy, messy, slow.
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Old April 20, 2012, 10:54 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike-Mat


Case Lube - What do you use and why?
In the past I used Lyman's case lube and a lube pad for resizing my 223 cases. Starting to reload for 223 again and cant find my tube of lube. Bought some Lee's case lube. It says it's water soluble, which means it must be water based. I put it on my pad and it dries out in 5-10 minutes (I live in the dessert).

I generally rinse my prepped cases in mineral spirits or Iso Alcohol to get the grease/oil off. So an oil base lube is fine with me.

What do you use and why?
First of all, if at all possible I neck-size - so I don't need lube. If I full-length resize rifle brass then I use Ideal Wire Pulling Lube. It is water-based and dries without residue.

I use Hornady One-Shot for 44mag brass on my SDB as my shoulder gets tired otherwise.
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Old April 20, 2012, 11:00 AM   #30
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Midway spray lube works for me. I tumble after sizing anyway so that takes care of any remaining residue.

Works for me.
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Old April 20, 2012, 11:06 AM   #31
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"...formulated for case sizing"

Lubricating a brass case against a steel die, requires a special formulation that is different than say, any other 2 metals that produce friction? I cant imaging a food grade silicone or PTFE will harm anything. If you look at the Remington gun oils, they contain PTFE.

I think as long as you clean it off, it wont matter which petroleum based or synthetic product you use, as long as it's doesn't have properties that can corrode the brass. That's why I'm considering Castor oil. It's clean, light, cheap and contains 1 thing... castor oil. It's specially formulated to relieve constipation, preserve eggs, make soap and lubricate delicate machinery.
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Old April 20, 2012, 11:42 AM   #32
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I stay away from Hot Shot and this is why.....

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Old April 20, 2012, 11:53 AM   #33
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Last night I used some very light machine oil. It says it was part castor oil, which is petroleum based. Someone suggested a mixture of light oil and Iso alcohol in a spray bottle. Spray it on and when the alcohol evaporates, it leaves a light oil residue. I might try that using castor oil.
Castor oil is not petroleum based, it is a very specific vegetable oil. It has an unusually high film sheer strength, and it's soluble in alcohol. So it should make a good spray lube -- like lanolin, but you might have to use more of it than you would lanolin.

You don't want "part castor oil", you want 100%, like from a drugstore or a fancy soapmaking supply store.

Good luck
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Old April 20, 2012, 11:56 AM   #34
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I've got a question for anybody using spray lube (like Dillon's). Can you use it on unprimed brass, or will the trace of lanolin that gets in the primer pockets maybe kill them? I just cleaned a bunch of deprimed .223 rifle brass last night and I still need to size them.
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Old April 20, 2012, 11:58 AM   #35
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I use Bag Balm. It's a mixture of lanolin and petroleum jelly. I use it because it works well and I got 10 ounces of it for $6.00. I've yet to stick a case with it.
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Old April 20, 2012, 12:07 PM   #36
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@zxcvbob: You are correct. I'm mixing up my Castor oil with my Mineral Oil.
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Old April 20, 2012, 12:55 PM   #37
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I'm with flyguy958.
STP
I've using it for over 30yrs, feels and lubes just like RCBS lube.
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Old April 20, 2012, 12:56 PM   #38
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Hey folks,

Rifleman said, "Hate pads, clumsy, messy, slow." He sure is right about case lube pads being messy. With the old RCBS case lube I use, they are also sticky. I hate messy and sticky.

However, while using my messy and sticky case lube pad, I only ever had a few stuck cases using a lube pad, and that was in the first year or so of reloading. Many years later when I tried the spray lube stuff, I had more stuck cases than I ever did with the old lube pad.

I did find stuck cases seemed to go away as long as I used enough spray, and I do not ever remember a lube dent with spray. I still get an occasional lube dent with the lube pad, but that is really pretty unusual. I think once you learn how to properly use the lube pad, you can pretty much eliminate stuck cases and avoid lube dents.

I hate messy and sticky, but I learned a long time ago how to avoid stuck cases with the lube pad, and I'll "stick" with it.

Best wishes,
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Old April 20, 2012, 01:12 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimkim
I use Bag Balm
I never thought of Bag Balm. Heck I haven't thought of bag balm at all for the last fifteen years, when I got out of the cattle business. I guess they still sell it at the co-op, or at Tractor Supply.

And, yeah, Castor oil is made from the seed of the castor plant. It's vegetable based and has lots of industrial, medicinal, and folk-remedy uses. It as also once used as an engine lubricant.
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Old April 20, 2012, 01:50 PM   #40
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Lubricating a brass case against a steel die, requires a special formulation that is different than say, any other 2 metals that produce friction?
You're saying that any lubricant designed to reduce friction between two metals is fine for case sizing? Really? How about the reverse? RCBS case lube in the crankcase maybe? I don't think so.
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Old April 20, 2012, 02:12 PM   #41
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@Flyfish: Well now your just being silly. You want to compare the contact of a shell with a die for 2 seconds, to an engine. A complex mechanical device that produces 12,000 controlled explosions per minute (assuming 3000 rpm and 4 cyl.). I don't think the hi temp and multiple moving parts of an engine are an apples to apples comparison. Somehow I don't think my dies will ever reach 230°f.

However, if you put any petroleum based lubricant in an engine crank case, it would work. It might not be good for improving the life of the engine, but it would provide a certain amount of lubrication for a period of time.

But lubricating a brass case, so it doesn't stick in a tool steel die, Yes, even vegetable oil would work. Hell you could use butter if you wanted to.

Mike
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Old April 20, 2012, 02:21 PM   #42
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@Sky Master: I saw the STP post and ignored it because there was no real information with it. STP makes gas and oil treatments. And from the post immediately before it, I didn't know if he was talking about lubing or clean cases.
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Old April 20, 2012, 02:31 PM   #43
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I use STP, put some on a pad over 40 years ago and have never had to add any. Pro: never had a stuck case. Con: leaves the case with slick residue which should be cleaned off to prevent increase in bolt thrust. Your choice, most work well. Goat
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Old April 20, 2012, 02:42 PM   #44
zxcvbob
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike
@Flyfish: Well now your just being silly. You want to compare the contact of a shell with a die for 2 seconds, to an engine. A complex mechanical device that produces 12,000 controlled explosions per minute (assuming 3000 rpm and 4 cyl.). I don't think the hi temp and multiple moving parts of an engine are an apples to apples comparison. Somehow I don't think my dies will ever reach 230°f.

However, if you put any petroleum based lubricant in an engine crank case, it would work. It might not be good for improving the life of the engine, but it would provide a certain amount of lubrication for a period of time.

But lubricating a brass case, so it doesn't stick in a tool steel die, Yes, even vegetable oil would work. Hell you could use butter if you wanted to.
You're right only so far as you say it's not an "apples to apples" comparison. Try using motor oil for lubing cases and see what happens.

The specifications for case lube are different than for motor oil, not necessarily lower.
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Old April 20, 2012, 02:47 PM   #45
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Unique case lube or Mink Oil. One tin will last forever, well, almost.
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Old April 20, 2012, 03:09 PM   #46
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Another vote for STP.

STP is the standard of excellence for case lubes. There may be others that are just as good but I don't believe there are any more effective. Pure lanolin is supposed to be excellent as well.
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Old April 20, 2012, 08:48 PM   #47
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Wire and Cable Pulling Lube (Premium Synthetic Wax). No stuck cases, easy to clean off.
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Old April 21, 2012, 12:24 AM   #48
William T. Watts
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RCBS case lube, never had a stuck case in 40+ years.. I apply the case lube with my fingers, twirl the case with my left hand and apply lube with thumb, fore finger, and middle finger of my right hand. I'm currently on my third bottle of RCBS lube which I may never finish. William

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Old April 21, 2012, 12:53 AM   #49
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Hello, I use Imperial, and when lubing inside case necks, motor mica. But for the really tough sizing chores..as well as wildcat case forming..nothing I have found is better than Corbin swage lube.
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Old April 21, 2012, 06:00 AM   #50
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Ued to use RCBS Case Lube -2 with a pad and it worked great until I picked up a larger caliber rifle and tried to resize those cases, seemed unusually difficult. Picked up some Imperial just because a guy I trust swore up and down it solve all my resizing troubles. Imperial does the trick and does it quite nicely and seems to last. Probably over 6000 rounds resized and not even 1/3 of the way through the tin of Imperial.
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