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Old March 4, 2012, 09:23 PM   #1
TG29
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Glock won't disassemble without 2nd trigger pull

Glock 17C Gen 3

Normal disassembly steps doesn't allow the the slide to remove until I pull the trigger again, which sort of pushes the slide forward and free.
I was wondering what could have caused this, and if there's something I can do to fix it.

I have detailed stripped it before, a lond time ago, and have also dropped it about 20 something feet from a treestand last year, but I have shot it since with no problems.

Thanks
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Old March 4, 2012, 09:28 PM   #2
JohnKSa
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Do you have an NY trigger installed? It's not uncommon for guns with the NY springs to require that.
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Old March 4, 2012, 09:33 PM   #3
rebs
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what is a NY trigger ? I haven't heard of this before.
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Old March 4, 2012, 09:46 PM   #4
Uncle Malice
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I'm wondering if maybe I are retracting the slide too far when taking it apart and resetting the trigger...

If you can't figure it out, maybe stop by a gun shop and ask them to take a look.
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Old March 4, 2012, 09:55 PM   #5
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I would second the idea you are probably retracting the slide too far. You only have to move it back a fraction of an inch (1/8"?), pull down on the side latches and the slide should move forward easily of the frame.

If you pull it back say 1/2" and then move forward to the 1/8" spot you will have reset the trigger.
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Old March 4, 2012, 10:02 PM   #6
TG29
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No to the NY trigger, it use to work fine with trigger pull, slide back, locks down slide forward, but it is acting like that.
The trigger doesn't seem to reset, but pulls back just a little more throwing the slide forward and clear like something's catching.
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Old March 4, 2012, 10:14 PM   #7
Uncle Malice
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May be a broken trigger spring. Do a detail strip and reassemble to make sure all the parts are in good working order.
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Old March 4, 2012, 10:54 PM   #8
TG29
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Sorry I didn't mention this in my first post, but I just remembered taking the crimson trace off recently. CT pin out, factory pin in, no problems. Done it several times without any trouble.
Could something have happened then? Can the backstrap trigger housing pin go in if it's not lined up? Which I think this is unlikely because as soon as the CT pin came out the Glock pin went straight in.

Anyway, thanks for the responses. I've only detailed stripped this gun once and will have to look up the steps again to make sure I don't screw something else up. But that is definetly the plan when I get home.
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Old March 5, 2012, 12:54 AM   #9
JohnKSa
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rebs,

The NY trigger spring is a trigger spring that applies only upward pressure to the trigger bar instead of upward and rearward pressure like the coil spring that comes standard on Glocks. It is named NY because it was developed for the NYPD who wanted a stiffer trigger pull.

The NY spring has the effect of increasing the pull weight of the takeup portion of the trigger pull which makes it feel a little more like a traditional double-action pull. That's in contrast to a stock Glock trigger with a fairly light takeup pull weight.

A side effect of the NY spring is that it often makes it necessary to pull the trigger a second time to release the slide after the disassembly levers are pulled down.

TG29,

I can tell you what is happening. The rear of the trigger bar, after the gun is dryfired, should stay in the down position. That keeps the "sear" portion of the trigger bar from hanging up on the striker/firing pin protrusion that hangs down from the inside of the slide.

If the rear of the trigger bar isn't in the down (fired) position, the rear of the trigger bar will catch on the striker when the slide is pushed forward for removal. Squeezing the trigger again will force the rear of the trigger bar downward which will get it out of the way of the striker, thus allowing the slide to move forward for removal.

Normally, the trigger spring exerts a backward pull on the trigger bar which holds it fully rearward after the trigger has been pulled to dryfire the gun. If the gun has just been dryfired but the slide hasn't been cycled more than about a tenth of an inch to the rear, then that rearward force will also hold the rear of the trigger bar in the downward position since the "ledge/ramp" of the connector is now above the trigger bar and won't allow it to move upward. If you cycle the slide too far back, it flexes the connector over enough that the trigger bar can now spring back upwards under the force of the trigger spring.

If the trigger spring is broken, it's not exerting a rearward force on the trigger bar and the trigger may drift back forward a little bit when released. That would also allow the rear of the trigger bar to move upward a bit since the "ledge/ramp" of the connector is slanted upward toward the front of the gun. Since the NY spring doesn't exert a rearward force, the same thing applies.

I agree with Uncle Malice, the place to start looking is the trigger spring. It may be broken, or it may be that it was reinstalled improperly and has come loose on one end or the other. The coil trigger spring should always be installed so that the loop that goes through the trigger bar is curving downward--the open portion of the loop is oriented down. If it is installed with that loop upward, it is more likely to come loose.
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Old March 5, 2012, 02:24 AM   #10
TG29
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After detail strip and re-assembly everything works fine the way it used to. The trigger spring was still connected and looked to be in good shape, so I'm not 100% sure what the problem was, but this

"If the rear of the trigger bar isn't in the down (fired) position, the rear of the trigger bar will catch on the striker when the slide is pushed forward for removal. Squeezing the trigger again will force the rear of the trigger bar downward which will get it out of the way of the striker, thus allowing the slide to move forward for removal"

describes what I could have been feeling with that 2nd trigger pull.


Thanks for all the info and help it was greatly appreciated.
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Old March 5, 2012, 06:30 AM   #11
Uncle Malice
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Glad we could help and more glad that your gun is back in working order.

Be sure to hit the range and run some round though it to make sure it stays that way.
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Old March 5, 2012, 07:28 AM   #12
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From what you're saying; it's probably nothing but I would check the 'engagement' of that gun. It's supposed to be between 100% and 66% according to Glock (I've seen guns function fine with less, no double fires but why chance it?). It sounds like your gun may have more than 100%... I've never seen it but it's certainly possible and it may be causing your trigger pull to be longer/harder than it should be. That's my $.02 anyways...
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