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Old February 18, 2012, 11:11 AM   #1
fozzy
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Will CLP remove Johnson's paste wax?

I’ve almost completed a rebuild of a Norinco NHM-91.

For the latest step, I paste waxed and buffed everything.

Tiny pieces of cotton and lint from my cheep buffing wheel are stuck everywhere.

Will Pro Shot 1 Step or Break-Free CLP strip off the wax (thereby defeating the purpose of waxing in the first place)?

Thx,
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Old February 18, 2012, 11:42 AM   #2
mete
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Anything with a solvent would probably remove wax ! Try a brush like and old toothbrush to remove the lint .
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Old February 18, 2012, 12:19 PM   #3
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And use the vacuum cleaner to pick up what you brush away.
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Old February 18, 2012, 12:52 PM   #4
Bill DeShivs
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Why use a buffing wheel to wax a gun? Just use a soft cloth.
WD 40 will probably remove the wax. Ammonia will, for sure.
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Old February 19, 2012, 11:04 AM   #5
fozzy
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Does this mean I need to rewax after every thorough CLP cleaning?

What happens if I wipe it down with Pledge furniture spray (contains water, wax, and evaporators).
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Old February 19, 2012, 04:34 PM   #6
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What's wrong with oil?
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Old February 20, 2012, 10:17 AM   #7
fozzy
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If mineral spirits takes off wax, I figured gun oil may.

It took so long to wax every piece (complete disassemble sans pressing barrel off trunnion) I didn’t want to waste my wax job (If CLP will strip off wax).
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Old February 20, 2012, 01:43 PM   #8
fozzy
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I just tested both Pro Shot 1 Step and Break-Free CLP.

Both removed some wax.

So, I’m going to strip the wax and oil (because cleaning will eventually remove the wax anyway).

Dang, the wax looked good though.
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Old February 20, 2012, 01:52 PM   #9
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Perhaps a high gloss poly would be a better choice?
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Old February 22, 2012, 12:08 PM   #10
fozzy
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Just to be clear …

The furniture was stained, multiple layers of poly applied, and then waxed (tired of wet sanding to get every single tiny blemish out of the final poly coat).

All blued metal was also waxed (looked awesome). But both Pro Shot 1 Step and Break-Free CLP removed some wax. So I stripped the wax off all metal and oiled because I didn’t want to rewax the metal after every cleaning (too much work).
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Old February 22, 2012, 01:52 PM   #11
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I think waxing blued metal is best done before a hunting/outing trip or before long term storage/display. It provides rust protection when you know you will be in rain or humid conditions for multiple days, or when you won't be wiping it down frequently.

If you are just going to the range for the day and will be cleaning it soon after then wiping it down with light oil is best. Especially if you use or clean the firearm often.
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Old February 23, 2012, 09:22 AM   #12
fozzy
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NWPilgrim, perfect. That makes sense. Thank you.
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Old February 24, 2012, 02:19 PM   #13
drail
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Use CLP. Forget the wax thing. Wax works great for museum exhibition items in a controlled environment. The first time the metal gets hot the wax will evaporate away. What do you think happens to the wax job on your car if it's parked out in the summer sun? If you want to shoot the thing rather than store it in a case CLP will do everything you need.
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