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Old January 15, 2012, 04:54 PM   #1
compglock17
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Backwards primer

I was shooting in a mach a week or so ago and one time, I pulled the trigger, no boom, just a click. I checked the round after the course and found I had seated the primer in backwards! I just wondering, is there any way to get the primer out? Id think that trying to de-prime with conventional methods would cause a "bang" and I don’t want that! Its only 1 round, so Im not too worried about scrapping it, but I was curious if there was any way to get the live primer out? Also, I have since increased my diligence of checking my loaded runs before they go in the box!
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Old January 15, 2012, 04:57 PM   #2
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I have never had a problem depriming a backwards primer. I'm not going to a speed record when I do it though .
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Old January 15, 2012, 04:59 PM   #3
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Same here. Pull the bullet then deprime slowly.
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Old January 15, 2012, 05:54 PM   #4
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^What they said. Wear safety glasses.
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Old January 15, 2012, 05:57 PM   #5
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Another trick I have read on here is to drape a towel over the press as you do it slowly to slow/stop metal projectiles from blasting in every direction -IF- it should detonate.

I've also had to deprime these a couple times... no struggle with it. No "pop" either.
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Old January 15, 2012, 06:00 PM   #6
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I, also have deprimed a few backwards ones. Go slowly, gently, using "feel".
Should be a non-event.

As mentioned before, take all safety precautions for eyes, ears, digits, etc, just in case Murphy's around.
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Old January 15, 2012, 06:02 PM   #7
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Primer is in backwards right? Put a drop of WD40 on it, pull the bullet, decap at whatever speed you wish and throw the primer in the garbage.
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Old January 15, 2012, 06:03 PM   #8
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I have done that, but not often. Slowly and gently ... safety glasses and you should have no problems.
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Old January 15, 2012, 06:31 PM   #9
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If the primer goes off it's not going to blow your arm off. All it will do is make a pop. Just put it in your press and deprime like you always do. I drop them on the floor in the reloading room all the time and some go off when the wife vaccuum's and nothing happens. Just dont try to prime one after you install powder and bullet or you may get hurt.
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Old January 15, 2012, 06:36 PM   #10
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if your that worried about it you could render the primer inert by putting a drop of oil in it and letting it sit for a bit before depriming it. I would still use caution when depriming though.
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Old January 15, 2012, 08:06 PM   #11
Sport45
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Don't count on oil to deactivate it.

Put on your safety glasses and use an inertia bullet bullet to remove the bullet making sure the primer isn't pointed at anything important while swinging the thing. (I'd just go outside and bang it on something.) Once the bullet and powder is out run the case slowly through your sizing or universal depriming die. Save the primer if you want to reuse for range/practice ammo as long as the anvil is still in it.

Or just toss the whole thing in the dud bucket at the range...
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Old January 15, 2012, 08:24 PM   #12
Edward429451
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Indeed, oil probably will not deactivate the primer. If you think about how primers work then you will understand that there is little to no danger decapping a live primer.

When a gun fires the cartridge, the firing pin is hit with a sudden and fast blow which transmits a sudden and fast blow to the primer which sets it off. Make no sudden or fast movements with the firing pin in your decapping die (sic) and it will not set off the primer. Nice and easy.
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Old January 15, 2012, 08:45 PM   #13
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What Edward says is true. However WD40 WILL kill primers. Especially if dripped into an open primer.
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Old January 15, 2012, 09:05 PM   #14
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toss the round to the defective ammo bucket ???
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Old January 15, 2012, 09:22 PM   #15
Jerry45
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Do you know how much that bullet and brass is worth????
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Old January 15, 2012, 09:30 PM   #16
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Its called a liquid safing fluid and though I've never used it on a primer, they do work.

But really it is a primer after all. Don't have any bodily object right below your brass and you are fine if it goes off or not.
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Old January 16, 2012, 08:42 AM   #17
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I've done this twice in 4 years of reloading a lot of rounds. Neither made it off the reloading bench as I check each round before they go into the ammo box.
I let my mother-in-law deprime them.
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Old January 16, 2012, 09:25 AM   #18
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When this happens to me, I slowly/carefully remove the primer, turn it around and reuse it. No big deal.
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Old January 16, 2012, 10:27 AM   #19
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Quote:
Primer is in backwards right? Put a drop of WD40 on it, pull the bullet, decap at whatever speed you wish and throw the primer in the garbage.
Quote:
What Edward says is true. However WD40 WILL kill primers. Especially if dripped into an open primer.
Quote:
if your that worried about it you could render the primer inert by putting a drop of oil in it and letting it sit for a bit before depriming it.
As others have said it doesn't work. I couldn't find the thread but when I do I'll post it here. Someone took around 12 case and primed them. Then shot WD-40 in all the cases. Fired one after an hour and it went bang. After two hours still went bang. After one day still went bang but a little weaker. Shot one every day for eight days and they all went bang but just a little weaker than a new primer.
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Old January 16, 2012, 10:42 AM   #20
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take the precautions everyone has listed and go slow. I wouldn't think it would go off not being set in a pocket to hold the anvil. Kinda like if you set one high and it won't go bang.
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Old January 16, 2012, 10:42 AM   #21
CrustyFN
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This isn't the one I was looking for but it's basically the same result.

Quote:
To Kill A Primer
By Stu Farish


A lot of people hold to the notion that WD-40 and some other solvents will easily deactivate any primer. I got to wondering just how true this was in fact.

It seems that somewhere along the way, the companies started doing something that seals the compound a lot better. People have soaked them in WD-40, penetrating oil, water, for several days and then found that they fired just fine.

I happened to have some primed 30-06 brass boxed up. I had some loaded up, decided on a different load & pulled the bullets & powder. I decided to do a test of my own. Say 5 cases of each thing I try. They've been sitting around, primed but unloaded, in an ammo box for a year or more. So I can use 5 as is, 5 with WD-40, 5 with water, 5 with Dillon Case Lube, 5 with motor oil, 5 with Kroil, and 5 with Break-Free penetrating oil. Soak them for 4 or 5 days and then see how many go bang.


I have 5 cases each:
Untreated
Liquid wrench
WD-40
Rem Oil (spray)
Dillon Case Lube
Water
Alcohol
Kroil

Each batch of 5 cases were treated, then placed mouth up inside a plastic ammo box. The box is now closed, which should help reduce any evaporation.

This batch happens to be Winchester Large Rifle primers. Yep, it'd be worthwhile to try a bunch of different ones to see if I get different results. I'd expect the same brand to respond about the same, ie WSR I'd expect to do about the same as WLR. But Federal & Remington primers may respond very differently. I'll probably try to continue this as time permits, do one type at a time & compare the results.

Day 1, after 24 hours:

Untreated - normal discharge. Could see smoke exit the rifle muzzle.

Liquid wrench - Weak. primer ignited, but could not see smoke exit muzzle. Smoke visible inside case.

WD-40 - Weak. primer ignited, but could not see smoke exit muzzle. Smoke visible inside case.

Rem Oil (spray) - Weak. primer ignited, but could not see smoke exit muzzle. Smoke visible inside case.

Dillon Case Lube - Very Weak. primer ignited, but could not see smoke exit muzzle. Slight trace of smoke visible inside case.

Water - Very Weak. primer ignited, but could not see smoke exit muzzle. Slight trace of smoke visible inside case.

Alcohol - Very Weak. primer ignited, but could not see smoke exit muzzle. Slight trace of smoke visible inside case.

Kroil - Weak. primer ignited, but could not see smoke exit muzzle. Smoke visible inside case.

In short, all primers ignited to some degree
Here is the link if you want to see all five days.

http://www.predatormastersforums.com/killprimers.shtml
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Old January 16, 2012, 11:20 AM   #22
mrawesome22
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Pushing the anvil into the cup makes a primer sensitive.

I would imagine a primer loaded backwards would have the anvil pushed into the cup very firmly and would be ultra sensative.

Be careful and go slow. It is a primer not a nuke.
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Old January 16, 2012, 12:20 PM   #23
UncleLoodis
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easy decision

For me, it's an easy decision. It's ONE round. WD-40 it, and discard. Murphy's Law is alive and well. There's things worth taking chances on and there are those that are not worth it. IMO, this falls into the latter category. Good luck to you, regardless of which you do.
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Old January 16, 2012, 12:24 PM   #24
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by the way

By the way, maybe I'm crazy, but what I do is put all my new live rounds in plastic boxes (Berry's Bullets makes GREAT boxes!), and visually inspect them all, one by one, as I am human and have made the same error as you (backwards primer).

Then, I take a blue Sharpie pen and run it over all the backs of the rounds...it helps me quickly determine which are mine at the range when I'm picking them up! The ink comes off when I polish them before reloading, but it's easy to do again.
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Old January 16, 2012, 01:04 PM   #25
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Quote:
Then, I take a blue Sharpie pen and run it over all the backs of the rounds...it helps me quickly determine which are mine at the range when I'm picking them up! The ink comes off when I polish them before reloading, but it's easy to do again.
I do the same thing when working up a load. I use a different color sharpie for each load and put a label on the box. That way if I drop them or they get mixed up some how I still know what they are.

Quote:
For me, it's an easy decision. It's ONE round. WD-40 it, and discard.
I would save the WD-40, why waste it.
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Last edited by CrustyFN; January 16, 2012 at 04:16 PM.
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