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Old December 23, 2011, 11:55 AM   #26
k4swb
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Quote:
I was taught to stand the deprimed cases in about an inch of water to anneal. When the necks achieved the desired "color", you just tip them over into the water. That way, you are assured the bases never get hot.

I haven't annealed any cases in a LONG time, though.
Exactly my case (pun intended) too.
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Old December 23, 2011, 01:15 PM   #27
7.62 Nato
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Would this apply to nickeled cases that tend to crack because of brittleness?
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Old December 23, 2011, 02:47 PM   #28
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IIRC, you don't want to anneal nickel cases. Heat hardens nickel even further, which will scratch the bejeebers out of your bullets.
Varmint Al has written about it before.
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Old December 23, 2011, 07:40 PM   #29
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a good article on annealing

http://www.gun-tests.com/performance/jun96cases.html

mcmaster carr has a good price on the heat indicating liquid and crayons

http://www.mcmaster.com/#temperature-crayons/=fhsdqz
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Old December 25, 2011, 10:31 PM   #30
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Apparently, my computer skills suck; lets try this again, as it is very worthwhile.

http://www.6mmbr.com/annealing.html
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Old December 26, 2011, 01:53 AM   #31
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I found this statement in the article a little disturbing.
"If you have a polisher, polish the brass before annealing it. If you do not have a polisher, use a little Brasso or other brass polish on a dozen or so cases Polish them about half way down the case by putting a little Brasso on a soft cloth and turning them by hand."

I've always been told not to use products with ammonia on cartridge cases. Doesn't Brasso contain ammonia ?
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