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Old February 4, 2012, 11:35 PM   #26
browninghunter86
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wow as I learn more about reloading weighed Winchester brass out of 50 pieces not fired and out of those I got 3 groups of 3 that were same weight(no 3 sets were same weight either)!!! that is pretty poor and the others basically were not even within 0.1gr off of the 3 groups.... just found it interesting and wanted to post it in here
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Old February 5, 2012, 01:31 AM   #27
TXGunNut
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What about Hornady?

For rifles it's been RP for years now. Wasn't available for 32 Spl and wasn't happy w/ WW so I ordered Hornady. No flash hole burrs, very consistent lengths and weights. Neck case walls very uniform as well, good-looking crimps.
Dunno if anyone else is using it but I feel like I've been overlooking something.
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Old February 5, 2012, 02:17 AM   #28
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Been wanting to try Hornady brass, but just like the Nosler, it's constantly out of stock in the artridges I want it in.
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Old February 5, 2012, 08:31 AM   #29
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I've used the Hornady brass in my 7mm rem mag loadings, until my birthday when my #2 son gave me a bag of new brass from Winchester, Good kid, but he's still #2.!!! Nice brass so far.
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Old February 5, 2012, 09:51 AM   #30
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All i use is Remington. I would like to try Nosler or Norma but haven't as of yet.
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Old February 5, 2012, 10:16 AM   #31
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I always liked Remington brass over Winchester and Federal. Never paid the big bucks for the Norma etc as I just hunted. The Remington brass lasted longer and seemed easier to work with.
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Old February 5, 2012, 10:24 AM   #32
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For my .221 Rem Fireball I get the best caselife out of R-P brass. (Though at around $45 per 100 it is spendy. Good part is cases last well over a dozen times reloading.) I also have reformed FC, and LCC brass for it. They work just fine.

For .223 all of my brass is range pick up. Though I admit I will go out of my way to pick up Hornady brass. It is the easiest to reload. No having to remove primer crimps, the rims do not seem to bend even when fired from AR rifles. That means a lot to me. Bent rims make cases wobble, and come loose in my Lee Trimmer I use with a corded drill. I do not even pick up R-P brass if it was AR fired. The rims bend so badly 8 or 9 out of 10 will wobble out of the trimmer. Federal works just fine. About 30% to 40% will have crimped primer pockets. I like Black Hills LCC brass. No crimps to remove, and good case life as well.
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Old February 5, 2012, 10:31 AM   #33
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For my accuracy load in 308 for my bolt rifle I use Winchester brass, same as Black Hills. I'll be using Winchester in 6.5x55, and in the past I've used whatever brass for 30-06.

For my Saiga in 308 I load LC brass.

For my AR-15 I load LC, but for the 200 yard line I have a bunch of mixed headstamp free range brass I'll be using for practice.

For any pistol it is all mixed headstamp as I don't reload anything but plinking rounds for pistol.

If I were searching for "one ragged hole" I'd buy Lapua or Norma brass, but once I get a rifle load under 1 MOA I'm usually very happy and just stick with it.

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Old February 5, 2012, 11:14 AM   #34
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Anything in good condition...

This is just me because I load to shoot minute of deer at northeast distances, don't even check my loads on a bench let alone target shoot off a bench, everything off hand and shoot zero competition. On top of all that, "Top Shot" hasn't been sending me letters. For me worrying about slight variation case volume would be a giant waste of time.

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Old February 5, 2012, 11:28 AM   #35
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RP brass is fine for hunting, only issue comes when I'm trying to realize the accuracy potential of my hunting rifle. Then I have to sort by weight, trim, deburr flash holes, etc. A bag of 100 becomes 50-70 acceptable cases after a few hours' work so I'm thinking it may be cost-effective to pay a bit more for Norma, Lapua or possibly Hornady.
RP is my go-to brass for hunting rounds and is quite adequate as-issued for hunting ammo in the hunting situations I normally find myself in, it's just that I don't want to leave anything on the table accuracy-wise when building hunting ammo. When I'm counting on one bullet to help fill my freezer I like knowing it will hit exactly where I want it to if I do my part. MOA or near-MOA performance on paper gives me that confidence.
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Old February 5, 2012, 04:09 PM   #36
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Federal, then Winchester, and Remington last.
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Old February 5, 2012, 04:28 PM   #37
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6mm wildcat - .243 Win R-P
.270 Win - R-P (+nickel), Win, FC (+nickel), Norma
.30 WCF - FC, R-P, Win
7.62x54R - S&B, PPU, Win S&B, Win PPU (old)
.30-06 - Lapua, R-P (+nickel), Norma, LC 67, LC 69, LC 67 Match
.35 Whelen - R-P, Win (formed '06)
.444 Marlin - Hornady, R-P (shot shells)
.327 Federal - FC/Speer (as if there was a choice)
.44 Rem Mag - R-P, Win, FC

(If that isn't a jumbled mess...)

PMC, S&B, PPU and a few other brands of brass are not only not used for hunting in my "standard" cartridges, but I often go to great lengths to make sure they are far from my reloading bench. I have no problem with some of the "cheap" brands in certain cartridges, but they have no place in a hunting situation with readily available brass of higher quality, for minimal expense.
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Old February 5, 2012, 04:50 PM   #38
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220 Swift - Winchester. My Norma wore out, but the Winchester (highly prepped) works fine and shoots fine. The Norma might have shot a bit better, but that's hard to prove or disprove.

270 Win - Using Remington right now, but will transition to Norma (cases are bought) eventually, but there's no rush.

260 Rem - Nosler

223 - Nosler and Hornady. For a while I thought the rifle shot better with the Nosler, but that isn't the case (pun intended).

I like Nosler cases. I'd buy some in 220 if Nosler would make them, but they told me that they had no plans to do so. I'll probably eventually get more Norma cases, if they have them when I want them.
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Old February 5, 2012, 06:11 PM   #39
JACK308
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starline brass
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Old February 5, 2012, 06:52 PM   #40
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I use Starline brass for my Blackhawk 45 Colt.
For my hunting rifles I'll use just about any brand in good shape. Mostly Rem & WW cause that's easiest to find around here. I find that with care they can be loaded more accurate than I am.
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Old February 5, 2012, 07:44 PM   #41
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I wasn't terribly impressed with the quality of the last bag of Winchester .308 brass. so next time I will spring for either Norma or Lapua. The federal stuff that I had in the last batch was just fine, though the neck wall thicknesses were all over the map. As for pistol brass, the Starline seems to be better quality than the Winchester that I bought for my 10mm.
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Old February 6, 2012, 12:30 AM   #42
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Over the last couple of weeks I've been doing case prep so that I can get started in reloading with a friend who has done it for several years. He had a bunch of brass that I worked, decapping, cleaning and swaging (as needed) primer pockets, and trimming (which I learned should be done after sizing, not before, so I guess I just got a lot of practice at trimming), chamfering, and deburring. He has a vibratory tumbler but I did the last 180 .30-06 cases in my Harbor Freight sonic cleaner just to see how well it would work.

I paid my "bored and needing something to do" and "always interested in making money" 15 YO daughter a penny a piece to sort the brass by headstamp. Where noted as red it is milsurp with primer sealant and was sorted to check for primer crimps. The numbers following the headstamp are how many of each there were.

Here is the list of .223:

R-P 182
F-C 76
F-C red 172
W-C-C 15
W-C-C red 78
P-M-C 6
P-M-C red 19
P-U-U 1
P-U-U red 5
R-O-R-G 13
FIOCCHI 17
MATCH 7
WINCHESTER 3
MAL 2
TAA 2
T-Z 1
C-J 2
A-T-I 1
P-S 1
T-N-M 117
HORNADY 52
L-C 130
1/27/12 TOTAL: 902

Here is some 6.5X55 Swedish Mauser with 21 7mm Mauser that somehow got put in the wrong bin. All the brass gets checked probably three or four times before I'm done with it.

R-P SWEDISH 24
R-P MAUSER 21
PPY 40
WIN 4
8-7 16
P-M-C 71

Some .30-06:

R-E-M 6
L-C 2
WINCHESTER 19
WESTERN 2
R-P 61
SUPER-X 8
F-C 77
1/28/12 TOTAL: 351

And .45 ACP

R-P 303
WCC 51
WINCHESTER 227
FEDERAL 20
NICKEL 26
WOLF 4
T-Z-Z 6
*--* 1
R-A 2
C-B-C 3
SPEER 8
C-C-I 5
COR-BON 5
W-W 5
S&W 2
PMC 6
CARROLL 1
S&B 1
F-C 1
G.F.L. 5
1/29/12 TOTAL: 682

This is just part of all the brass I've done. All told there were around 1000 each of .223 and .30-06, a couple hundred each of 6.5 and 7mm Mauser, .30-30, .38 Special, .357 mag, .44 mag and maybe 500 of mixed headstamp 9mm (that didn't get sorted). For each chambering there are some headstamps where there are a lot of them and some where there are just a few. Unless there are enough to make up a couple of boxes worth, they get thrown in the "Mixed Lot" bag. These may get loaded for plinking rounds with the brass saved and segregated so we don't have to sort it all out again. Then again, we may just toss them in the recycle bin.

We are trying to get everything sorted by manufacturer for consistancy. I must have around 500 PMC brass for my Swedish Mauser, but it's the only one I have in 6.5X55 so that brass will just be neck sized and only ever fired in that rifle. I was going to prep the 60 milsurp cases I had in that chambering, but when I tried to decap it some did, some were very hard to decap, and some would not. Upon close inspection, I found that some of those were Berdan primed so I just put all of it in the "bad brass" bin for recycling.
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Old February 6, 2012, 09:42 AM   #43
browninghunter86
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the Federal's in 308 I have were alot more consistant weights than the Winchester I have. But going to stick with them for now until I find a good load with them and then go from there
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Old February 6, 2012, 01:35 PM   #44
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Weighing brass is pretty much an exercise in futility (and consequently, so is weighing final assembled rounds). It might be an interesting mental exercise for hyper-consistent reloading, but it is pretty much pointless for normal humans

I have a single bag of unfired brass (Starline) for 45 acp that I have never opened. 95% of my pistol reloading brass is WWB collected over the years from my own store-bought ammo. 100% of my 308 reloading brass is Remington Core-Lokt also recycled from personal store-bought ammo. 100% of my 30-06 reloading brass is surplus Lake City bought from the CMP as actual ammo.
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Old February 6, 2012, 05:36 PM   #45
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Quote:
Weighing brass is pretty much an exercise in futility (and consequently, so is weighing final assembled rounds). It might be an interesting mental exercise for hyper-consistent reloading, but it is pretty much pointless for normal humans
In one of my .30-06 loads, the difference between 0.490" groups and 1.5"+ groups is flash hole uniforming and weight sorting the brass. (100 yards)

That rifle sees use on Pronghorn Antelope, out to 600 yards. I don't consider trimming a full minute of angle to be very 'futile' at that range.
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Old February 6, 2012, 10:33 PM   #46
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Sorting by weight and deburring the flash hole when required are two of the most efficient loading operations and seem to have the most dramatic improvement as well...and you only have to do it once. I've not seen as big a difference as FM has but it's well worth it with RP brass. It was a complete waste of time with a recent batch of Hornady brass, however. Brass well within my tolerance and not a flash hole burr in the bunch.
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Old February 7, 2012, 05:49 PM   #47
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Starline for .38 special and for .45 Colt (long colt).
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Old February 7, 2012, 07:58 PM   #48
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Right now, I've been using a batch of CBC for my .223, but my choice varies a lot. For my .223, I always stay with the same brand within a batch, but change it out went it gets bad. I have a batch of Hornady on board next, and after that I'll work on the piles of FC and PMC I have.

For practice loads for my .30-06, I am just using unsorted range brass. It's loaded just so I can get some more trigger time with that rifle. When I load some hunting ammo, I'll use all Remington brass
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Old February 8, 2012, 09:53 AM   #49
JACK308
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starline
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Old February 17, 2012, 11:14 PM   #50
browninghunter86
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.223 Brass

Picking up range brass. Almost 95% is once fired and all types of headstamps. Picking it all up and seperating it by headstamp but what should I look for and what should I try to avoid? Also how do I know if the primers are crimped? I know mil surplus brass is but I don't know how to exactly tell
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