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Old October 18, 2011, 08:46 PM   #1
Jerry45
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Frog Lube

Everything they say it is? "Frog Lube is the last lube & cleaner that you will ever need." Or a whole lot of hype?

http://www.froglube.com/videos.htm
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Old October 18, 2011, 09:25 PM   #2
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I am plumb out of frogs to lube. As far as "the last you will ever need", that I will agree with, it is the last thing I need.

And I have never heard a manufacturer selling a product by telling people "well, it works okay, but smells kinda funny, and that other stuff over there is actually better".
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Old October 18, 2011, 10:33 PM   #3
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Just found this http://www.froglube.com/docs/Frog%20...%203-25-10.pdf Just in-case anyone is interested.

I’m intrigued by this stuff. It sounds too good to be true. Usually anything that sounds too good to be true is.
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Old October 20, 2011, 12:25 PM   #4
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I have been using it for about a year now. I like it a lot, and my honest opinion is that it does a better job then the Hoppes I have. I have the paste type, but will be switching to the liquid the next time I need some. I would agree with everything they say on their website.
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Old October 20, 2011, 01:37 PM   #5
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Must contain some gold to be priced over $479 per gallon.
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Old October 20, 2011, 05:20 PM   #6
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Seems to be pricy for something derived from US plants. I’m skeptical by nature and when something sounds too good to be true bells and whistles go off. I’d like to try the stuff but at $10.00 for 4 oz. of paste or $16.00 for 4 oz. of liquid or $28.00 for the 4 oz. kit plus shipping… Well I’ve never been a gambling man.

One thing that has me really wondering is their claim of protecting the bore from lead and copper fowling. Safety data sheet says flash point is 480 degrees F. I’m reasonably sure the bore gets hotter than that, if only in the instant the bullet is fired. If it “burns” off how does it protect against fowling?

If they would sell 1 oz. or even 1/2 oz. for a couple of bucks and only charge a couple of bucks for shipping I’d be a lot more inclined to give it a try.
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Old October 20, 2011, 06:23 PM   #7
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The more you ck into this the moe it becomes a Mystery.

I tried it, bad move!
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Old October 20, 2011, 10:52 PM   #8
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You’re right! I just found this. If you just want to try it… ¼ oz. paste 1 oz. liquid and a micro fiber cloth $12.00 + shipping. So about $17.00 just to try it out.
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Old October 22, 2011, 08:17 AM   #9
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I've been using froglube for about 8 months. I was turned onto it by The smith at my local shop. He said it was the best stuff he'd seen in his 40 yrs of being a gun smith. Up until this point I'd used hoppes and slip and was happy with them.

I got my first small container and cleaned my 226. The biggest thing I noticed was how much crud it got off the gun that the other cleaners would take off. I pasted the stuff on heavy then heated the gun. After about 20 mins there was a big black puddle of crud under the gun.

I also noticed the slide and trigger felt better but this could have been in my head. After the next range trip I noticed the 226 was easier to clean. No scrubbing needed. Just wipe it down and run a bore snake and it's clean. Reapply, warm up then wipe Down and you're done.

For me it cleans better and makes future clean ups easier. Also seems to work as well as a lube as anything else I've used.
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Old October 22, 2011, 09:43 AM   #10
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If you put bacon grease, margarine, butter, or even generic general-purpose packing grease on your pistol and then heated it in an oven you would get a black puddle of crud under the gun.

This reminds me of the myth that got started in the automotive industry that running ATF through an engine before an oil change "cleansed" it. Mechanics would drain the oil and then fill the crank case with ATF or a mixture of ATF & oil and idle the engine for a few minutes. Then they would drain the oil pan again and the fluid would be dirty. Then they would fill er up with whatever oil they were going to use.

Well it turns out that ATF has less detergent in it than most standard motor oils and especially detergent oils. And when someone repeated that exercise using 5 quarts of premium detergent oil - they got dirty oil when they drained the engine.

You are heating the metal! All of the petro chemicals that are in the pores of the metal are going to become more viscous and when they begin to flow they are going to lift out any carbon particles with them.

This also reminds me of a trick door to door vacuum salesmen would do. They would vacuum a section of rug with the homeowners vacuum. Then they would go over the same section with the vacuum they were selling and would show the filter to the homeowner to prove how much better their vacuum brand was than the homeowners.

The reality though is that if the would have reversed the order, the same thing would have happened, the homeowners vacuum would have picked stuff up out of the carpet too, even after going over the spot with the salesman's vacuum.

Last edited by C0untZer0; October 22, 2011 at 09:50 AM.
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Old October 24, 2011, 08:34 AM   #11
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Well I've never tried to put bacon grease or butter on my handguns so i'll take your word for it. What I can tell you is I always clean my guns warm. I've worked with metal most of my life and you are correct that warming the metal opens the pores and allows crud to be released which is exactly why I've always used this method even when using other cleaning products.

When I did my 226 with the FL the first time It had already been cleaned with Hoppe's then lubed with Slip2000 and appeared to be spot less. Nothing would come off when wiped with a clean white towel. Before using the FL I warmed the gun slightly and wiped the whole thing down with a clean rag and a large amount of 91% alcohol, again nothing on the rag, nothing on a patch.

I pasted the gun heavily with FL and warmed it up and just let it sit. After a few minutes there was a puddle under the gun and the junk just kept coming off. After the second round with FL the black crud was gone.

I've run a couple of thousand rounds through it since then and clean up is easier. Most of the time requiring only a dry rag and a little more FL. I will tell you that I repeat the whole process at least once a month whether the gun has been fired or not. I'm sold on its ability to clean and lube. I'm still on the fence about long term protection against rust and corrosion.
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Old October 24, 2011, 10:25 AM   #12
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I found the same thing with FL. I cleaned with Hoppes until my drying patch came out clean and dry. I then used FL and and the patch came out cruddy. I also use it to clean around the action and bolt. Things just seem to work a little smoother. All those of us that have used it can tell you is what we have found in using it. You have to decide for yourself if the cost is too much for you or not. However I'd be more inclined to believe someone who has used it, good or bad results, then someone who has never used it at all and bad mouths it.
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Old October 24, 2011, 01:39 PM   #13
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Per their MSDS, it is a less than 50% POA which means the base oil has a lot of solvency. While they didn't state the actual cP of the fluid, this would be close to the pre-Katrina Mobil One that a lot of the guys are using except the Frog crap wouldn't have some of the additives that could create issues from free radical oxygen in the M1. POAs are expensive now considering the ethylene gas that is used to make them is getting scarce which is why the newer M1 motor oil is not anything like the old. So if you are using M1 and you bought it after Katrina, yer just using plain ol' motor oil and not the PAO based pre-Katrina stuff. Depending on the polar properties of the PAO, it should have tremendous film strength especially for a weapons application but you need to know that the PAO by itself does nothing to prevent oxides from forming like rust/corrosion so I would assume that there has to be something in the formulation to help with this issue. Unless you know from someone close experiences with it, I'd be inclined to use something with more track record in regards to corrosion resistance. Nothing like taking out a firearm that you treasure only to find it's a ball of rust.
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Old October 24, 2011, 01:55 PM   #14
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Product says its bioadegrable right on it's packaging. That may or may not be a good thing...
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Old October 27, 2011, 10:03 PM   #15
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Finally found the answer to my question.

Quote:
By Patriotz - This review is from: FROG LUBE CLP Lubricant Kit - 4oz Paste and 4oz Liquid (Misc.)
Just like to do a follow up review since my first one. I had plenty of opportunities to test frog lube's ability to remove copper fouling. Let me just say this first, all in all this is by far the best lube I have used. It removes lead fouling like nothing else. On top of that, it's environmentally friendly. It however does not have the ability to remove copper fouling. Being that this product repels petroleum products, there are still plenty of potent copper removers out there that are petroleum free. Either Barnes CR10 or KG-12, etc will get the job done for those seeking to remove copper fouling. If you do not shoot copper jacketed bullets, then frog lube is a complete gun care package for your firearms. I still keep my petroleum free copper solvents around in addition to the frog lube just in case I need to get rid the copper fouling.
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Old October 29, 2011, 12:36 PM   #16
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Well I done went and done it. I can’t find anyone that has used it that has anything bad to say about it so my curiosity has gotten the better of me and I ordered some. Since it doesn’t remove copper I won’t be using it in the bore of anything I shoot jacketed bullets in, i.e. rifles, carry pistol or any of my Glock barrels. BUMMER, I’ll still need two products, bore cleaner and Frog Lube, even if it works for everything else.

I’m very “critical” when it comes to promises made. I’ll give Frog Lube a skeptical but honest try. I’ll let y’all know (if y'all are interested) what I think of it as time goes by. Should be getting it in next week.
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Old October 29, 2011, 01:03 PM   #17
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Let us know what you think of it, after you try it out..
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Old November 3, 2011, 12:06 AM   #18
Jerry45
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Frog Lube came in today. I did two Glocks my 1911 carry gun and my AR. I washed my hand after doing each gun and I’ve washed them twice more. They are still slick. Not greasy but slick. Feels like I have Silicone on them. Any indication of its lubricating ability? I hope so.

The guns were “clean” before I started and I cleaned them with alcohol as per instruction. I heated them in the oven (no hair drier and there ain’t no sun at night). The paste turned to liquid on contact. When the parts cooled the FL turned back to paste. When I wiped everything down with the supplied microfiber rag it turned out they weren’t that clean. If nothing else it did a good job of cleaning and made everything nice and shiny.

I said I wasn’t going to use it in the boar. I decided to run some in one of the Glock barrels. The barrel boar had been cleaned with Hoppies until patches came out clean. As per instructions I scrubbed the boar vigorously, with a new brush, loaded with FL. After it cooled I ran a clean patch through. It came out black. Second patch came out clean.

I’m suppressed at how little paste it took to do a complete AR, (I mean everything from stem to stern) I removed the hand guards and the stock and did the rifle completely in and out and three pistols completely in and out.

I’m going to try to get to the range next week. I’ll take the AR and one of the Glocks. We’ll see how it goes.
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Last edited by Jerry45; November 3, 2011 at 12:13 AM.
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Old November 3, 2011, 08:45 PM   #19
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I got to go to the range today. I took my Glock 30 and my Colt AR. I have an aftermarket barrel for the Glock for shoooting lead. I had forgotten to season the aftermarket barrel so I did it this morning before I left. Shot lead through the Glock. Both guns ran fine. When the AR heated up there was noticeable moist FL around the fire control pins. Anywhere there was a tight place that I hadn’t wiped well became moist. I admit I was a bit liberal with the FL. When I got home I wiped the whole thing down. There wasn’t any external dirt. The bolt and fire control parts were wet with FL. It and the dirt/carbon wiped right off. I stuck everything back in the oven and did a second seasoning. I hadn’t seasoned the boar so I decided to season it too. It’s a Colt chrome lined. I cleaned and cleaned with FL and dry patches until I got tired. I was still getting a little gray on the dry patches.

I wiped the Glock down. There was black/carbon on the feed ramp and trigger assembly. The Glock has always been pretty easy to clean so I didn’t notice a big difference. Rail channels in the slide did seem to clean up a little easier. Boar cleaned up with one FL soaked patch and two dry patches. Threw it in the oven, heated it up and did a second seasoning.

Now to be honest I didn’t notice a really big difference cleaning or lubricating between FL and the petroleum products I’ve been using. Granted the firearms had only been seasoned once and the seasoning process added to cleaning time. Actually it took about as long for the whole process as it does when I clean using petroleum cleaner and oil. FL may have made cleaning and lubing a bit easier but I don’t want to be overzealous. What I did notice is… my hands are usually black, oily and smell like whatever product I’ve used when I’m finished. I wiped my hand off with the microfiber cloth that came with the FL. I had used it to wipe down the four guns I seasoned yesterday and to clean and wipe down the Glock and AR today. My hands are clean. Now that I think of it I’d better go wash them with soap.
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Last edited by Jerry45; November 3, 2011 at 09:24 PM.
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Old November 4, 2011, 03:13 PM   #20
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I looked at it and was glad to be sitting down when seeing the price. What I am using is EEZOX and I have found through repeated use of EEZOX that my barrels are easier to clean from lead fouling each time. I'll stick with the EEZOX.
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Old November 4, 2011, 07:53 PM   #21
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I originally felt the same way about the price. I was surprised how little it took to clean and season three pistols and an AR once and one pistol and the AR a second time. I hardly put a dent in the jar of paste. I used about 10 drops of liquid to get into places I couldn’t reach with the paste.

I’m still using Hoppies and oiling my bolt guns. The FL smells a lot better is easier on the hands and cleans up much easier. If I become convinced the FL is the shizzs I’ll start using it on them. If not I may give EEZOX a try. This is the first I’ve heard of it. I Gooled it and it sound pretty good. I’d be interested in knowing how it works on copper fouling. It was said the FL does nothing for copper and is one reason I’m not in a big hurry to use it on my bolt guns.

I had/have some copper in one of my Glock barrels. The initial cleaning with Fl didn’t seem to have done anything to it. The boar seemed extra clean but the brass coloring was still there.
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Old November 5, 2011, 08:52 AM   #22
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Why would you want to lube a frog?
Sorry, I couldn't resist.
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Old November 5, 2011, 11:31 AM   #23
Jerry45
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If you don’t lube them they stick to the pan. I hate it when the frog legs get burned.
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Old November 5, 2011, 01:54 PM   #24
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Don't know if it works or not. I use Mobil 1 Synthetic and Weaponshield.

Is this how they make that Froglube ?

http://xmb.stuffucanuse.com/xmb/viewthread.php?tid=3225
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Old November 5, 2011, 04:18 PM   #25
Jerry45
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I believe they use a 2 ton press and squeeze the snot out of them.

My cleaner and lube of choice for years has been Ed’s Red for cleaning and a mix of Mobil 1 and STP. Hoppies #9 to remove copper. When competing with my 1911s I use to get sprayed with “gun oil”. Old-timer introduced me to motor oil and STP. Its slicker then cat poop and stays on the gun. And it don’t get much cheaper.
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