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Old September 11, 2011, 10:30 PM   #1
pistol named Bertha
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shooting .38 special in .357 magnum

I've heard that you can shoot .38 special in a 357 magnum. I habe a s&w model 686 I'm 357 magnum....is it safe? Does it hurt the barrel? Pros cons please

I have just acquired around 100 rounds of .38 special...
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Old September 11, 2011, 10:33 PM   #2
MLeake
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It won't hurt it. In some revolvers, the .38 won't be as accurate due to the longer jump to the forcing cone - or so I've heard - but I've never noticed a difference in my revolvers.

Due to the shorter cases, though, crud rings can form in the chambers when you shoot .38. This won't hurt the gun, but should be removed by a good cleaning, if such rings form. The crud rings will often make it difficult to load .357 cartridges until they've been removed (standard solvent, brush, and patch cleaning, nothing fancy required).

I've heard some people claim the rings could cause pressure issues, if allowed to get really thick, but I've never heard of that actually happening. I clean my revolvers often enough that I'll never find out, either.
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Old September 11, 2011, 10:39 PM   #3
pistol named Bertha
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Thanks.....I love that revolver best shooting firearm I have......thanks fellow georgian I'm from macon.
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Old September 11, 2011, 10:47 PM   #4
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You're welcome. We're up in the Canton area.
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Old September 11, 2011, 10:49 PM   #5
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A .38 Special has a lower chamber pressure, which creates less stress on the frame, barrel and action vs. a .357 Mag. One thing I would not do is fire .38 Special lead bullets and then firing .38 Special jacketed bullets or .357 Mag bullets (jacketed or hard cast) without first doing a good thorough cleaning to remove the lead in the barrel. Firing a jacketed or hard cast bullet after a soft lead bullet without first doing a thorough cleaning of the barrel will make it harder to remove the lead fouling from the barrel.
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Old September 11, 2011, 10:52 PM   #6
MLeake
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Discern makes a good point. If you are used to shooting .357, you probably don't shoot much lead - since the only lead you normally see in .357 is gas-check hardcast for hunting. Soft lead at .357 velocities tends to foul the rifling pretty quickly.

But lead reloads in .38 aren't that big a deal, as long as you follow Discern's advice.
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Old September 12, 2011, 09:11 AM   #7
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I shoot thousands of lead .38 Special reloads through my .357s. I have a chamber brush from Brownells to deal with the buildup in the chambers. Kroil gets the lead out of the bore nicely. Accuracy may suffer a bit, but clay birds on the hill at 35 yards die with regularity, and the small pieces get pulverized as well.

I shoot very few full load .357s any more. All my K frame S&Ws see .38 Special almost exclusively. My N and L frame guns do rare .357 duty, usually when some younger folks want to see what it's like to shoot a full load. Then we get out the .45 Colt as well with full power loads and Rugers.

There is a school of thought that says firing a jacketed bullet after lead is the way to clear the lead. I don't bother.
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Old September 12, 2011, 09:40 AM   #8
lee n. field
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Quote:
I've heard that you can shoot .38 special in a 357 magnum. I habe a s&w model 686 I'm 357 magnum....is it safe?
yes

Quote:
Does it hurt the barrel?
No

Quote:
Pros cons please

I have just acquired around 100 rounds of .38 special...
Cons, possible build up of residue inside cylinder, making inserting the longer .357 cartridge more difficult until it's cleaned. Possible slight loss of velocity due to longer jump before the bullet encounters the rifling.
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Old September 12, 2011, 11:20 AM   #9
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I would think that most of the shooting done in this country, after .22LR, is probably .38 fired in a .357 revolver. Very commonly done.

As Lee above said, you'll have a ring of "crud" left in the chambers at the end of the cases that will try to block you getting longer Magnum cartridges in after shooting .38's. It can also make extracting the magnums hard to do. You'll be cleaning your gun anyway so just make sure to clean that crud ring out. Solvent won't do it, you have to scrape it.

There is a similar relationship in other guns, you can shoot .44 Special in a .44 Magnum, and .45 Colt in a .454 Casull, among others. The only time I've ever heard of any 'danger' is in that last one, if you get a crud ring in a .454 chamber by using the shorter .45 Colt cases, you could create a situation with a .454 cartridge afterward that could 'block' the opening of the case during firing and cause pressures to exceed safe levels. The lower powered guns are not near enough the 'red line' to ever achieve this kind of trouble.
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Old September 12, 2011, 12:54 PM   #10
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If I had a quarter for every .38 special round I fired through a 686, I'd have a fair sized bank account.

Back in the '80's, a shooter could buy .38 ammo for $6-8 per box of 50. I could reload 'em quite a bit cheaper than that. Working in a gun shop didn't hurt, either. My buddies and I didn't have much to do with video games and such; we shot guns for our entertainment, and we sent a fair amount of lead down .357 mag barrels from .38 special cases.

I wouldn't worry about it a bit. If the gun gets dirty, clean it. It's what you'd do with any other gun and cartridge combo, right? Shoot it, have fun, and be happy.

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Old September 12, 2011, 04:31 PM   #11
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Cleaning the carbon rings left over in .357 chambers by .38 special rounds is a piece of cake just so long as you clean regularly. Brush them thoroughly with a dry brush, one that hasn't been soaked in solvent. Even better, brush them with a brush that is in a slightly larger caliber than the gun's chambers. For example, I routinely brush my .357 chambers with a .40 cal. brush. Then, run a few solvent soaked patches through the chambers. Do this after every trip to the range and that should take care of 99-100% of the carbon buildup.

I've fired 1000s of .38 special round through my .357s. I've never noticed an iota's difference in accuracy between .38s and .357s in the same gun.
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Old September 12, 2011, 04:50 PM   #12
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It's kinda hard to see how the shorter length of the .38 case affects accuracy, since the bullet still has to pass through 4-6 inches of barrel to be stabilized and exit just like a .357 bullet. I've never really noticed a difference, and I bet that any negative effect on accuracy is way down in the "noise" for most shooters.

You can also use an empty, flared .357 case to clean the crud from the chambers on the firing line. It's helped me a lot even with my K-38, which has very tight chambers that are susceptible to crud buildup, making it hard to chamber .38s fully after a few dozen rounds.
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Old September 12, 2011, 08:20 PM   #13
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Quote:
...It's kinda hard to see how the shorter length of the .38 case affects accuracy...
In my 686, I could not find an accurate .38 Spl. cast bullet load (the only loads I shoot are cast). It may have to do with the increased bullet jump. In any event, I switched from .38 Spl. cases to .38 Spl. level loads in .357 Brass and found my accurate target/plinking/fast double action load.
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Old September 12, 2011, 09:27 PM   #14
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Cleaning the lead buildup in the cylinder in my 686 is a pain, so I just reload .38SPC-level loads... in .357 cases.

But to answer the OP, as others have, yes, it's safe to fire them.
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Old September 12, 2011, 09:36 PM   #15
KMAX
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Why I like 357 guns so much.

This is why I like .357mag guns over .38 Special only, because you have the option to shoot either cartridge from the same gun. Given the option of either caliber in the same platform I would always go with the .357 if the gun could handle it. More versatility.
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Old September 13, 2011, 05:51 AM   #16
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I regularly shoot lots of 38 spl's in my 686 and always clean it afterwards. Never had a problem with it.
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Old September 13, 2011, 06:59 AM   #17
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These days I buy and shoot a lot more 38 special guns than I do .357, but back in the day I always bought .357's working on the theory that I could shoot either ammo.

I made no particular effort to clean a "crud ring" out of them, and I never once had a problem. Maybe I just didn't shoot enough, but back then I was going to the range ever other day or so. I made no special effort to clean it, just routine cleaning.

I tend to think of the "problem" as more theoretical than anything else. I'm not saying it doesn't happen, just it must take more shooting and less cleaning than I do.
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Old September 13, 2011, 10:24 AM   #18
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Quote:
I regularly shoot lots of 38 spl's in my 686 and always clean it afterwards. Never had a problem with it.
+1. I shoot more .38 than I do .357 out of my S&W 686.
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Old September 13, 2011, 10:30 AM   #19
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Seems like 90% of folk shoot .38spl out of their 357 frame handguns. Less recoil and easier to control.

I do too.
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Old September 13, 2011, 12:03 PM   #20
rc
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All you need is a quick trip around the cylinder with a brush and you are good to go back to 357 mags. I've fired a lot of ammo through my 686 much being 38 special reloads. The only problem I've ever seen is the carbon bullet wax build up making inserting and removing 357 rounds a we bit sticky. Not a permanent thing, just use a brush. The only concern you might have is cleaning your gun after shooting 38 specials if you keep 357s in it for defense. If you practice with 38s and use 38s for defense it's not an issue. Shoot that ammo in your gun and stop worrying! The only thing that's going to be off about it is your sights.
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Old September 13, 2011, 08:33 PM   #21
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Quote:
Firing a jacketed or hard cast bullet after a soft lead bullet without first doing a thorough cleaning of the barrel will make it harder to remove the lead fouling from the barrel.
Nonsense. I've been shooting for over 40 years and have always followed lead with jacketed. It makes it much easier to clean.

Here's a lively discussion. Match point was made by pistolsmith and moderator (also a contributor to this forum) 1911Tuner.

http://thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=302172
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Old September 13, 2011, 08:40 PM   #22
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Here is my story on the issue and it supports most of the above comments.

I shot 100's of .38 spl in a Highway patrolman and just cleaned it after each session with no attention to the crud ring. Then one day it became difficult to shoot DA and difficult the cock the hammer for SA. Finally, I figured out that ammo was dragging on the recoil shield because the crud ring had gotten to the point that it would not let cartridges slide fully into the chambers as the cylinder turned and the cartridge moved along the ramped part of the recoil shield that pushes the ammo back in place after it recoils back against the recoil shield on firing.

I good cleaning and all was good. I now pay attention to the crud ring.
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Old September 13, 2011, 11:45 PM   #23
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No problem

38 spl is weaker than 357 mag. putting less stress on the gun AND your hand

With regards to accuracy, the only time accuracy is really important is while target shooting. If you intend on CC, put self-defense 357mag rounds in it while you CC.
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Old September 14, 2011, 07:44 AM   #24
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I rarely shoot .357 in my M19 and M66.....mostly shoot my own 158 gr wadcutter rounds.
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Old September 14, 2011, 05:13 PM   #25
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I haven't fired my 586 a whole lot, but I've noticed the crud ring starting to form a little. I've noticed similar results when shooting my buddy's .357 with .38 spl rounds. It wasn't a big deal, though, since it cleaned out pretty easily.

Everything has been pretty well covered. One major perk for me is that .38 spl rounds cost less than .357 magnum rounds. If you don't reload this can be really helpful.
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