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Old September 1, 2011, 02:19 PM   #1
kingfisher
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Join Date: September 1, 2011
Posts: 3
drill and tap receiver on Winchester SXP Defender

I purchased a tac-star side saddle shell holder for the Winchester 1300 to install on my Winchester SXP Defender.

The thru-bolt replacement for the pin in the rear of the receiver fits fine, and the side saddle sits nicely on the receiver. H

However, the clip at the bottom edge of the side saddle does not fit the edge of the loading port on the SXP. It looks like the walls of the SXP are thicker than on the 1300.

I would like to drill and tap a 3/16" hole into the receiver, possibly 2 of them, to attach the side saddle.

i have attached an image of the locations where i want to put these holes.

the 1st arrow shows the pin that is replaced by a bolt in the standard installation of the side saddle. this works fine on the SXP, as I mentioned above.

the 2nd arrow shows the location of one hole i want to tap into the receiver. it would be just in the aluminum of the receiver itself, and would fit a 3/16" short bolt. i could use a 1/8" instead, possibly. this would be the second attachment point for the side saddle

the 3rd arrow shows where the second new hole would be. i am not sure it is necessary. the side saddle has a curved flange that hugs the curved top of the receiver (I have an arrow pointing at that from the number 3 also), preventing the saddle from swivelling on the rear pin in the counter-clockwise direction (looking at it in this image). but that flange does not stop the saddle from swivelling up (clockwise). the second attachment point (at arrow number 2) would prevent this clockwise swivelling, but it is colinear with the rear bolt (arrow number 1), therefore, a third attachment point at arrow 3 would be nice, as it would reduce flexing and generally firm up the attachment of the sidesaddle.

OR maybe i only need that 3rd point, and should skip the number 2 connection.

what do you guys think?

is it OK to drill either or both of these holes? i have the tools and skill to properly drill and tap the holes to a precisely controlled depth.

the lower hole (number 2) seems like it would be OK, since that is right next to the open loading port anyway and certainly is not under pressure. the upper bolt location is closer to the action and the chamber, but still not under pressure at firing (i think).
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File Type: jpg SXP_defender_leftside_tapholes.JPG (54.7 KB, 106 views)
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Old December 1, 2011, 11:42 AM   #2
chinaman0389
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Join Date: December 1, 2011
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hey i Hope you didnt drill and tap your SXP Defender yet...I never had to drill or tap to get my side saddle to stay in place... i just bent the metal on the side saddle to be able to hold on while shooting...if you want i can show you a picture just pm me
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Old December 3, 2011, 03:56 AM   #3
Clark
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Join Date: December 4, 1999
Location: WA, the ever blue state
Posts: 2,994
I got this 12 ga Browning A5 made in ~1922 that has (4) 8-36 holes drilled and tapped for scope in a 2.5" x 0.5" pattern.

With those holes, I dickered the seller down to $200 in 2007.
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File Type: jpg Browning A5 with holes drilled and tapped.jpg (57.3 KB, 36 views)
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Old January 1, 2012, 08:49 PM   #4
kingfisher
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Join Date: September 1, 2011
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chinaman: actually i did drill and tap it, and its working really well, no issues inside, the end of the screw is flush with the receiver inner surface. the side saddle holds on very tight and snug with no play whatsoever. if you have a moment, i'd be interested in seeing what you did to make the clip work. i fiddled with it a bit and decided it would be loose and unreliable. kudos to you for getting it to work

clark: i appreciate the cautionary tale! however, i dont sell guns or land. i'll keep this for as long as it functions, then i'll scrap it. that said, if i had an antique like that browning, i'd drill holes in me before i drilled holes in it, what a crime! i wonder when they were drilled?

thanks for the responses guys!
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