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Old July 28, 2011, 12:53 PM   #1
ryans01z28
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New to reloading guidence needed

im new to reloading and to this forum and want to start reloading .223's for my AR15 and looking for a set up that will work best for target/coyote shooting/hunting. ive done some reading in my lymans 49th addition and a few ppl on line say they like the H335 or varget powder.

here is my set up
DPMS 20" bull barrel with a 1-9" twist
this will be my 1st time reloading and i bought a lee 3stage turret press with double disk kit.
i have the gun sighted in with 55gr bullets right now.
any more input would be appreciated.

Last edited by ryans01z28; July 28, 2011 at 01:22 PM.
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Old July 28, 2011, 01:38 PM   #2
dcody40
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Well your in the right place and asking good questions.

The first thing some of the group would suggest is to read all the stickies, this is all the info that will get you started.
Now You should read all of the reloading manual, and the others that are suggested.

Here's my input to your new project. Assuming you already have the materials you need, this is powder, primers, brass, bullets. And the correct dies for your Lee turrett.

Decap and resize. the brass, even if new brass, I'd go ahead and resize. You will figure that out all by your self. You will need to lube the cases, so they don't get stuck in the die. Then you clean the lube off, several methods used. Another thing to learn.

reprime, either on the press or by a hand tool.

add your powder load. You best have a scale to check your powder drops.

seat your bullet. To the recommended COAL.

crimp your bullet. Recommended for an autoloader. Only crimp to keep the bullets from moving around. You can get a zillion responses for this topic, try the KISS principle. Read the book.

Now I drop my resized cases in a chamber guage and then again after loading a few to check my settings, this is a good tool, less than 20$. Get one.

record your load, in a notebook, Notebooks don't need batteries, and never remove a page from this notebook.

try out your loads and see how they do.

Good luck and stay safe.

Duane USN/ret

Reloading with Blu/Red/Grn/Ora
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Old July 28, 2011, 01:46 PM   #3
ryans01z28
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My question did not say how do I reload 223s but what powder did ppl found to be the best match for target and coyote hunting, and as stated in my 1st post I have a lyman 49th addition that I've been reading. I have no power no bullets no nothing right now. I'm waiting for my press with dies to arive and the only other thing I have is a tumbler other than that I'm in the dark still

Just to make it a little easer 4some ppl what recipe are you using with a 55grain bullet? Is it a boat tail bullet exct. exct.

Last edited by ryans01z28; July 28, 2011 at 02:10 PM.
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Old July 28, 2011, 02:09 PM   #4
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There are lots of good powders for .223, you just have to find one that suits you. I like IMR 4895, but I've been using it for several decades and every rifle caliber I have has at least one 4895 recipe. But, there are lots of other powders that work just as well, or better than mine. Depending on your rifle.

You see, handloading is really dependent on your rifle. What your rifle likes. The only way you're going to know that is by testing. There are literally a dozen or more good powders for the .223, and people are loathe to give recipes because there are so many potential variations.

The biggest question is: which powders can you find locally to use? Look in your manual and find the .223 recipe page. Then, find the recipes with 55 grain bullets, then make note of the powders that give the best velocity. Then, look around and see if you can find those powders locally. That's the powder you will use for testing.
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Old July 28, 2011, 02:09 PM   #5
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What powder does your lyman suggest?
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Old July 28, 2011, 02:21 PM   #6
ryans01z28
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The best powder lyman suggested was varget at number 1 but had about 15 other powders also. I heard H322 was good but wasn't on lymans list. I found H322 at this sporting store that's going out of business for $19 +tax per pound but didn't buy it till I knew 4sure I could use it
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Old July 28, 2011, 02:42 PM   #7
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First and foremost

WELCOME TO TFL!

There are many powders which will give excellent accuracy in the 223. Your weapon will have it’s own likes and dislikes. And may like entirely different powder/bullet combinations than an identical rifle. Bottom line - - - you will just have to test several.

The twist of your barrel will dictate the use of certain weight bullets. You should know what your twist rate is before going further.

My recommendations for a 55 gr bullet would be to try Varget and TAC as starters. If neither works well, try BL-C2 and either IMR 4895 or H4895. I have not tried the newer powders Benchmark or IMR 8208 XBR .


Below is a listing of a few factors I have come across which affect accuracy. Other folks have published articles and books on these categories.

Primer: strength, brisance - is a measure of the rapidity with which an explosive develops its maximum pressure
Barrel: length; tightness of bore; height of the lands; distance of bullet to lands; temperature of barrel;
Lock Strength: the force which is applied to the primer by various strength firing mechanisms;
Bullet: bearing surface of bullet, alloy of bullet; shape of bullet; distance off rifling;
Brass: new/used elasticity; manufacturer, volume; crimp;
Powder: new, aged, old, batch powder was from;
Weather: ambient air temp., barometric pressure, humidity
Elevation: above sea level
Other: I am sure I have not listed all

Good Shooting!
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Old July 28, 2011, 03:54 PM   #8
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This has worked for me for many years in AR's and Mini=14's:
LC brass
CCI SR primers
H335 (follow load manual recommendations)
Hornady 55 gr JSP (can use their FMJ as well)
I do not crimp

YMMV
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Old July 28, 2011, 09:54 PM   #9
Shoney
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Instead of editing your original post, it is less confusing for readers if you add a new post answering the questions.

Since you have a 9 twist, you should consider a heavier bullet. The 9 twist is ideal for 65 thru 75 grain bullets. Some weapons will stabilize the 55 and produce OK groups. However, when loaded to it’s potential with the heavier bullet, you will get noticeably better groups, especially at/beyond 200 yards, especially in a wind.

My choice would be the Sierra 69 HPBT.

Good Shooting!
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Old July 28, 2011, 11:07 PM   #10
ryans01z28
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i see, well maybe ill try a 65 gain bullet. i was shooting my 55 grain out to 300yds with consistent groups all were within 1/2" to 1" of each other which i thought was pretty good. i was wondering still if it would be good to pick up some of the H322 since it was discounted to $19+ tax. im heading back to my other home this wknd and want to pick it up if they still have it. can i use the H322 with a 55 or 65 grain bullet and get good performance?
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Old July 28, 2011, 11:14 PM   #11
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Actually, reloading for your AR15 is a little more cut and dried than for other calibers. For instance, there's only two primers you should be using and positively do not use others. You want to use Rem 7-1/2's or the CCI Mil-Spec primer (#41?).

Powders I've had good results with
IMR-4064
BLC-2
IMR-4895
H-335
RL-15
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Old July 28, 2011, 11:17 PM   #12
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i have CCI primer number 400 small rifle primers, that was what the guy at the store said and thats what it said on his chart so hope that is write
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Old July 28, 2011, 11:39 PM   #13
Edward429451
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I don't think that's them. The Mil-Spec primers have a thicker cup for the Mil-Spec rifles and if you use regular small rifle primers you risk piercing a primer.
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Old July 28, 2011, 11:56 PM   #14
ryans01z28
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you gota be ****tin me... i looked at the chart my self and it said i need these primers. i bought 1000 of the things i hope your wrong cuz idk what im going to do with them if there wrong
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Old July 29, 2011, 12:16 AM   #15
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This chapter from an older Sierra reloading manual has the answers to a lot of your questions, and more information on top of that -

http://www.exteriorballistics.com/re...sgunreload.cfm

I believe the danger from using too sensitive a primer is slam-fires rather than pierced primers. Pierced primers will damage your gun, but slam-fires have the potential to damage you, especially if it is out of battery.

I also suggest you pay particular attention to full-length resizing.

Good luck.
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Old July 29, 2011, 12:50 AM   #16
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H332 will work in bullet weights from 40 to 80 grains. However, in several hundred 223 threads over the years, I do not recall anyone saying that their best accuracy was with that powder.

If you do not use the hard cup primers, sooner or later you will get a slam fire. CCI's are harder cup than most primers, but the CCI #41 are NATO Spec. And a general rule of thumb is to use magnum primers (CCI 450) with ball (spherical) powders.
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Last edited by Shoney; July 29, 2011 at 12:55 AM.
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Old July 29, 2011, 09:22 AM   #17
ryans01z28
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So thoes are indeed the wrong primers 4shure is what your saying? I'm going to go back to that store this wkend and look at that chart to see what these primers are for because it showed these primers for 223s I'm 99% sure not sayin I don't believe u
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Old July 29, 2011, 05:28 PM   #18
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Well I just talked to a local guy that makes guns and I asked him what he thought about the primers and he said he would use the cci#400 in a heart beat. I also talked to him about powders and he of coarse said there's lots to chose from so I think I'm going to try the H322 since I have seen some testing done on that along with the H335.(Not heat sensitive)
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Old July 29, 2011, 06:03 PM   #19
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Ok I will help a bit. I have a 1 in 9 Savage bolt action that I load for. I also load for a several different AR rifles for friends.

Primer: (Have used CCI 400, Rem 7 and a half, an Winchester.) Make sure they are seated slightly below flush.

Cases: Mixed Headstamps.

Powder: Hodgdon H335

Bullet 55 grain Hornady V Max, and 55 grain Winchester FMJBT.

All worked well with 25.0 grains of powder. (Note all rifles were tested with lighter loads prior to check for function, and pressure signs.)


This load in my Savage Model 12 LRPV has not failed to drop coyotes out to 400 yards. (Farthest shot was 415 yards measured with a lazer range finder.)
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Old July 29, 2011, 06:06 PM   #20
ryans01z28
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That is the same recipe I was going to go with EXACTLY for my AR
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Old July 29, 2011, 06:15 PM   #21
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I would recomend a note of caution. Load some starting at 23.8 grains then go up in .3 grain increments to 25.0 to assure it is the load that particular rifle works well with.
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Old July 29, 2011, 06:18 PM   #22
ryans01z28
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Yeah ur right on that. I wasn't going to go and load them that much right away
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Old July 29, 2011, 11:23 PM   #23
ryans01z28
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Ohh I was going to ask, is there a way to set the primer tool up so it seats it just past flush?
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Old July 30, 2011, 12:08 AM   #24
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YOU HAVE SO MANY QUESTIONS AND NOT ENOUGH ANSWERS, You should read read and read some more. Know exactly how to reload before asking every Tom, Dick and Harry and still not knowing for sure how and what to do for sure!!!! Get your reloading manual, it should tell you everything you need to know
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Old July 30, 2011, 12:10 AM   #25
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Quote:
Ohh I was going to ask, is there a way to set the primer tool up so it seats it just past flush?
The pocket depth will determine the seating depth. You want to seat them all to the bottom of the pocket. Primers that are high or flush with the base are from dirty pockets or not mashing them all the way in.

My AR loads these days use Wolf SRM primers. I bought them because they have a harder cup than their SR primers and they weren't marketing the .223 primers at the time.

Quote:
i was shooting my 55 grain out to 300yds with consistent groups all were within 1/2" to 1" of each other which i thought was pretty good.
That is very good. What 55gr bullet were you using that gave 1" groups at 300 yards?
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