The Firing Line Forums

Go Back   The Firing Line Forums > The Hide > The Art of the Rifle: Bolt, Lever, and Pump Action

Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old July 10, 2011, 11:42 PM   #1
troopcom
Senior Member
 
Join Date: June 24, 2011
Posts: 222
Mosin Nagant m91/30

What is the best year Mosin Nagant to buy? I'm talking actual Russian Mosin Nagant M91/30.
troopcom is offline  
Old July 10, 2011, 11:46 PM   #2
.300 Weatherby Mag
Senior Member
 
Join Date: September 6, 2008
Posts: 1,777
Personally.. I would rather own a Finnish M39 or Remington or Westinghouse built m91 than any Russian 91/30.. And I own an excellent Tula built 91/30. I also own a Remington built m91...
.300 Weatherby Mag is offline  
Old July 11, 2011, 07:08 AM   #3
ksstargazer
Senior Member
 
Join Date: December 28, 2004
Location: Flint Hills of Kansas
Posts: 316
There is no best year for a M91/30. The main difference is the hex reciever on the pre 1936 rifles. If you want significant differences, you need to go with a Finnish mosin. The Finns are consistently more accurate and in the case of the M39 mentioned, you will have better sights and stock. I have about 30 mosins and my Finns are my most prized firearms.
ksstargazer is offline  
Old July 11, 2011, 07:23 AM   #4
9-ball
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 21, 2011
Location: Belgium
Posts: 340
The sniper versions (recognized by a curved bolt handle) were hand selected for accuracy. About years, I'd just look for one made outside the war ('41-'45).
__________________
Quality of life is measured by number of rounds fired, quantity of life by number of rounds left to fire.
9-ball is offline  
Old July 11, 2011, 07:55 AM   #5
chris in va
Senior Member
 
Join Date: December 26, 2004
Location: Louisville KY
Posts: 12,527
None. If you feel the need to get a shoulder bruising bolt action, at least look at a Mauser. My Mosin just sat in the safe after a couple range trips.
chris in va is offline  
Old July 11, 2011, 08:14 AM   #6
rdf.hack
Senior Member
 
Join Date: June 7, 2011
Posts: 173
With Mosins its not really a matter of year, but bore condition. You want rifling that extends to the end of the barrel, even if it is worn. My 1929 91/30 has worn rifling at the crown but it can get a 2 in group at 100 on a warm barrel, on a hot, from 2.5 to 3 inches, and this is with crappy Romanian light ball.

Counterboring is a process where worn rifling is drilled out, so your barrel has a few inches of no rifling which will affect accuracy. In wartime 91/30s you will find a boatload of CBed ones. I would say use JG sales and pay the extra 30 bucks to get a handpick for best bore, that will give you a good base of 91/30 to work with, from there you can leave it as it is or free float the barrel and pillar and/or bed the stock and you can end up with an excellent shooting military rifle in almost original military configuration.
rdf.hack is offline  
Reply

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:39 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
This site and contents, including all posts, Copyright © 1998-2014 S.W.A.T. Magazine
Copyright Complaints: Please direct DMCA Takedown Notices to the registered agent: thefiringline.com
Contact Us
Page generated in 0.05422 seconds with 7 queries