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Old January 10, 2011, 01:18 PM   #1
shafter
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Ruger Transfer Bar Broken

Hey, the transfer bar on my Ruger New Vaquero just snapped off. This seems really strange since I never fan it or anything.

What's the procedure for having it sent back to Ruger? Will they charge to fix it?
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Old January 10, 2011, 01:23 PM   #2
quatin
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Call customer service on their website. If you have the paperwork proving you're the original owner and the gun is brand new, then you may pay just for the shipping.
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Old January 10, 2011, 01:30 PM   #3
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If you ask they'll likely cover the shipping too. They've done this for me even in situations where I wasn't the first owner.
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Old January 10, 2011, 01:35 PM   #4
44 Deerslayer
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The transfer bar is a customer replacable part. If you are comfortable doing it yourself, the transfer bar is a part that Ruger sells to the public. They should send you a free one.
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Old January 10, 2011, 02:10 PM   #5
Jim March
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Right, you can indeed install it yourself.

Once you do, check for "transfer bar pinch":

* Unload the gun.

* Check again .

* Bring it to full cock, and then lower the hammer while continuing to hold the trigger back.

* With the trigger still back, push on the back of the hammer.

* Release the trigger, slowly.

If the trigger "sticks" backwards, the hammer is "pinching" the transfer bar - basically, it's hitting the transfer bar with more force than is necessary. The hammer should glide forward as your finger comes off it, even with the hammer pushed forward.

Many of us suspect this is a factor in transfer bar breakage. User "Flatgate" on rugerforums.com is the first to come up with this theory.

When you have a Ruger that's "pinching" like this, the cure is to gently file at the area of the hammer that hits the transfer bar, until the "pinch effect" stops. You can do this without taking the gun apart - wrap a small bit of rag around the base of the hammer to prevent grit falling in and gently file on the area of the hammer that hits the transfer bar. Go slow, PUT DOWN THE DREMEL, check it every dozen strokes or so of a jeweler's file.
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Old January 10, 2011, 08:44 PM   #6
James K
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Hi, guys,

Jim and Flatgate may well be right, but I don't think just the hammer hitting (pinching) that transfer bar would be enough to cause breakage. Now, I have never seen a Ruger transfer bar break, so I am talking theory here. But I think it is more likely that looseness in the bar that would allow it to twist so the hammer hits it on one side would be a more likely cause of breakage, and that might be checked also.

Jim
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Old January 10, 2011, 09:08 PM   #7
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I'm betting on Flatgate's theory. The fitting of the transfer bar and hammer to the frame is critical on those designs.
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Old January 11, 2011, 07:27 AM   #8
shafter
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Thanks guys. I'm gonna see if the dealer I bought it from will arrange to have it sent back.
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Old January 11, 2011, 08:23 AM   #9
mete
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The forces on that part are not very great so it might have been a defective part .I'd like to see a photo of the fracture surface.
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Old January 11, 2011, 08:43 AM   #10
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My bet is on a defective part as well. They really are pretty straight forward to replace at home.
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Old January 12, 2011, 06:17 AM   #11
shurshot
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Ruger parts don't break that often. My hunch is Chuck Norris used yours to pick his teeth with...
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Old January 12, 2011, 09:43 AM   #12
batmann
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Were you actually shooting or dry firing? Ruger says dry firing is OK, but I never dry fire, I use snap caps. When you dry fire it can break the bar.
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Old January 12, 2011, 09:56 AM   #13
shafter
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Actually I do dry fire quite a bit. No fanning just snapping at specks on the wall.
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Old January 12, 2011, 11:42 AM   #14
Tallyman
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Ruger is pretty good about repairing their firearms. I sent back a Ruger 77/22 rifle that was not ejecting empty cases and a 1970s Ruger Blackhawk .30 carbine that had two sticking chambers so bad that I had to hammer out the empty cases.

Ruger rebuilt the bolt and lower part of the 77/22 which holds the ejector and magazine. They replaced the cylinder, the pawl and put new screws in the grips on the Blackhawk. Returned both guns directly to my house.

No charges for any of the repairs.

I paid to ship the rifle at my expense.

Biggest problem is, as a non-FFL, returning handguns. UPS wanted over $60 to return the Blackhawk. After some negotiations, Ruger finally sent UPS to pick it up at their cost.
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Old January 12, 2011, 06:48 PM   #15
Edward429451
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Unless they changed the laws when I werent looking, an owner of a gun can ship to the factory for repair and the factory will ship directly back to the owners house with no ffl involved.
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Old January 12, 2011, 06:53 PM   #16
jhenry
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Dry firing will not break the transfer bar. That is incorrect.
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Old January 12, 2011, 07:15 PM   #17
Tallyman
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The laws are the same. . .but as a non-FFL bring a handgun to UPS and tell them you want to ship it back to the factory or a gunsmith.

They will only ship over night air. A dealer can ship it surface at a much cheaper price.

Regardless of Federal laws, UPS makes their own rules.
==================================

Re: Unless they changed the laws when I werent looking, an owner of a gun can ship to the factory for repair and the factory will ship directly back to the owners house with no ffl involved.
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Old January 12, 2011, 09:32 PM   #18
Jim March
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Call Ruger and they'll send you a new transfer bar for dirt cheap, or possibly free. WAY cheaper than paying shipping.

You should learn to disassemble and reassemble your critter regardless. There's a number of good tutorials online. The mainspring is the trickiest, see also:

http://www.cylindersmith.com/Ruger-spring.html
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Old January 13, 2011, 07:23 AM   #19
shafter
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Well I WAS dry firing and it DID break so other than a defective part I don't know what to say.
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Old January 13, 2011, 10:36 AM   #20
drail
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It broke because the T bar was misfit or had a casting flaw. It is purely coincidental that you dry fired the gun. The hammer HAS to transfer most of it's energy into the frame. If all of it goes against the T bar it will fail. It is a crucial balance. If a Ruger breaks it would have broken whether it was being dry fired or with live ammo.
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Old January 17, 2011, 04:51 PM   #21
shafter
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Ruger offered to send me one. Is it a difficult thing to replace?
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Old January 17, 2011, 06:20 PM   #22
Jim March
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NO. Ruger SAs are easy to work on.

You do need to find hollow-ground screwdrivers or hex bits that fit the various screws. Brownell's has a neat screwdriver kit worth looking at:

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=2...ON_SCREWDRIVER

These bits are all specific to Ruger SAs. If you already have a handle get the bits only...the handle is overpriced but it does hold all the bits inside the grip. The hex drive pattern is standard...but for God's sake don't use any sort of power-driver. Seriously. If it's got a battery, don't use it on your gun. Period.

If you're going to take it down completely, and you will to swap the transfer bar, you might consider doing a spring kit at the same time:

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=2..._SHOOTERS_PAKS

If you want, you can also swap hammers to the SuperBlackhawk type, particularly if you're a "strong-side thumber" as opposed to an "off-hand cocker":

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/sid=2...AMMER_ASSY__SS

This is basically the same hammer as a Montado or "SASS Special run" New Vaquero. It drops the hammer "reach" distance down to near-identical with a pre-WW2 Colt SAA or most of the USFA models. The NewVaq is most closely cloned off of the post-WW2 Colt SAA which has a longer reach. With this hammer your gun will look less "period correct" but in truth it will handle closer to something Wyatt Earp might have shot back in the day .

SASS rules recently legalized this hammer for all competition.

Just sayin, if you have an excuse to tear it all apart, put it back together *right* .
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Old January 17, 2011, 08:22 PM   #23
shafter
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Thanks, I'll just put in the new transfer bar for now. We'll see how it goes!
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Old January 17, 2011, 09:01 PM   #24
atex350
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Just got my 44 special flat top back from my gunsmith. The transfer bar had broken. My gunsmith called ruger and the lady told himthey would replace the first one free and sent him one. He said it sounded like ruger may have had some bad ones. Before it broke it had a rough spot when you would cock the hammer, now it feel ssmoth when you cock it.
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Old January 18, 2011, 07:00 AM   #25
Jim March
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Ruger has official disassembly and reassembly videos up. Go to:

http://ruger.com/resources/videos.html

Click on the "tech tips" icon below, follow the "single action" directions.

Full teardown of this sort does NOT violate the Ruger guarantee...it's a supported thing, unlike S&W.
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