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Old October 16, 2010, 10:45 AM   #1
New_Member_Name
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1911 extractor questions

i had some problems yesterday with stovepipes, so i took a look at my extractor and idont know enough about this to say its bad or not, i've tried asking others on other boards and didnt get too far. so i thought i'd try it here.

i took 2 pics to show the questionable issues.
first, should there be a gap between the bullet and the back of the slide like this?


second, i tried the test where you put the bullet in the slide and you are supposed to be able to shake it around without falling, and just putting the bullet in the extractor and slowllllly turning it level, this si what it looked like


not sure what to do here other than take it to a gunsmith and have them resolve it. i took it apart, and checked it out, but i'm not ready to do anything to it yet, untill i know for sure that this is bad.
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Old October 16, 2010, 04:26 PM   #2
sophijo
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extractor info

http://www.m1911.org/technic2.htm
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Old October 16, 2010, 07:27 PM   #3
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i've looked at that site too many times and it doesnt answer the questions i have.
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Old October 16, 2010, 10:22 PM   #4
TXGunNut
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You're frustrated, give it a break. One thing I don't think the linked article addressed is a small chip on the part of the extractor that engages the rim of the case. Insufficient tension seems the likely culprit and sometimes addressing it requires a new extractor.
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Old October 16, 2010, 10:49 PM   #5
DnPRK
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Sometimes you have to replace mediocre factory parts with known good aftermarket parts.
Wilson extractor $33.99
EGW stainless over size firing pin stop $20
Wilson ejector $31.99
Ejector pin $3.49

Last edited by DnPRK; October 16, 2010 at 10:59 PM.
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Old October 16, 2010, 11:06 PM   #6
drail
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And usually they will need "fitting" as well. Your extractor looks a little loose from the angle of the dangle in your photo. With the case head shoved back against the breechface you want to see the inside of the extractor's notch contacting the rim of the case head. The "beak" of the hook should not be in contact with the bevel of the case's extractor groove. Only the case rim should touch the extractor. First thing I would do is put a very slight bend in the extractor's middle section to snug it just a little tighter against the case. A loaded round should still droop a little but the case should not fall out when you turn the slide upside down and sideways. A slight bevel on the bottom edge of the extractor's notch will help feeding. Just lightly break any sharp 90 degree corner.

Last edited by drail; October 16, 2010 at 11:14 PM.
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Old October 17, 2010, 05:56 AM   #7
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its like the extractor is too long, plus it rattles inside the slide. what i cant figure out is why its bad now. whats to stop another one from going bad if i replace it? i dont want to keep having to replace these.
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Old October 17, 2010, 08:25 AM   #8
1911rocks
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Bullet Proof parts

New Member Name: The first time you muck about with an extractor can make you crazy. I cannot stress too strongly that there is a substantial difference in Extractor and Ejector between stock and Wilson Bullet Proof. So many companies use MIM parts and in many applications Mox Nix. But, when it comes to Slide Stops, Ejectors, Extractors, Firing Pins, Magazine Releases, I am a true believer in the Wilson Bullet Proof parts. Furthermore, even Kimber, SA, Colt will use MIM parts. The only companies that don't use less robust parts are usually cost prohibitive. This video isn't like an AGI video but it gets the idea across, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZqVhrADkV6M

PS. I never mess with a "hair puller" after 7-8pm. Wait until the next morning, things are much simpler.
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Old October 17, 2010, 10:10 AM   #9
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well for right now, i just bent the crap out of it and stuck it back in there. when i put a full magazine in it, and rack the slide, each round pops out like its supposed to. i hope this will work untill i can order the parts and get it fixed.
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Old October 17, 2010, 12:35 PM   #10
Nowhere Man
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New Member Name,

I have a simpler solution for you. Springfield has a lifetime warranty.Call them.

When I experienced problems with my Loaded, they paid for shipping, both ways. And, I had the pistol back in 8 days.


Dave
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Old October 17, 2010, 01:28 PM   #11
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Extractor Issues

Check out AFTEC Extractors
Solved a Kimber Issue for me
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Old October 19, 2010, 08:36 PM   #12
mog
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Easy Extractor adjustment

I totally agree with the previous posts recommending 'Bulletproof' extractors.
Are you dropping any ammo into the chamber from the top? Any cases that do not enter from the bottom will distort the extractor hook which is designed to 'ride over' the cases coming up the mag tube into the feed ramp/chamber. Some people do this to get that extra round loaded-however this must be done by feeding the additional round in with a mag, then dropping the mag, replacing the one bullet, and reseating the mag in the gun.
A good rule of thumb attributed to 'Ed Brown's 1911 Bench Reference' is as follows:
The extractor should be tensioned to just barely hold
a loaded round flush up against the bolt face
Any less tension, the gun might not extract
properly, any more and it might not feed properly.

If you need to bend the extractor, hold it between the slightly open jaws of a bench vise with the claw side in the vise. the bend should be made with the extractor pin's bulge just on the outside of the vise jaws. You can use your 1911 slide to hold the extractor if you stick the extractor end bit that gets held by the firing pin plate into the extractor hole about a quarter to a half inch with the claw end sticking out then into the loose vise for bending...

You should own the Ed Brown PDF manual if you are starting to do simple work on 1911's. I've had mine for several years but it's probably still available on the Ed Brown website. After you go thru that you can graduate to the Jerry Khunhausen 1911 books- best ever written...

Good luck -mogwan
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