Gun Safe Questions

Single Six · September 11, 2010, 05:13 PM

So now I'm thinking about buying a gun safe. My questions for those of you who have them already: I live in a recently-manufactured mobile home. Will my floor [where the safe will be] require any reinforcement ? If so, how do you go about doing this and how expensive is it ? Also, I know full well that if the burglar is determined enough he can break into pretty much anything. Does anyone have any stories to relate as far as having bought a reputable safe only to have it successfully breached by thieves ? As ever, thanks in advance.

beeenbag · September 11, 2010, 05:19 PM

I too live in a mobile home and have a 700lb empty weight safe. I placed it directly overtop of the frame rail under the floor and simply blocked it up solid under the frame. Also a word of advice, bolt it down, wall and floor, and try to put the opening side of the door (opposite the hinges) against the wall if possible. This will deter a theif from using a pry bar to open the door.

oneounceload · September 11, 2010, 06:06 PM

Depending on how your home is set up, it MAY require some sub-floor extra support - you might be able to do it from underneath with some pier supports, 4X4 and plywood IF necessary...finding the main frame supports is a good start....

good luck

rtpzwms · September 11, 2010, 06:35 PM

Here is something you might want to read.

**Bud Helms** · September 11, 2010, 07:25 PM

That's a great link, rtpzwmsfkitnssjsu.

Oops, tripped and fell on my keyboard.

oneounceload · September 11, 2010, 08:44 PM

There IS a difference between a Residential Security Container and a real "safe"

Single Six · September 11, 2010, 11:35 PM

Thanks for all responses. Oneounceload: I read you loud and clear ! To clarify: I'm not talking about a cheesy $149.00 steel gun cabinet from Wal-Mart that's marketed as a "safe"....I'm talking about a SAFE. Fire-resistant, about 600 or so pounds, something 2 or 3 dudes out on parole can't easily break into or pick up and leave with...and will most likely read "Cannon" or "Liberty" on the door. Rtpzwms: Yep, great link ! Thank you !

alfack · September 12, 2010, 03:50 PM

My house has a fairly deep crawl space. I think my floor would probably be able to handle the 800+ pound safe, but I reinforced it anyway. I put a 4x4 across the floor joists at either end of the safe, with a screw type jack on one of those cement block piers under the 4x4. So far, no sag or anything.

Good luck.

oneounceload · September 12, 2010, 06:49 PM

Quote:

Thanks for all responses. Oneounceload: I read you loud and clear ! To clarify: I'm not talking about a cheesy $149.00 steel gun cabinet from Wal-Mart that's marketed as a "safe"....I'm talking about a SAFE. Fire-resistant, about 600 or so pounds, something 2 or 3 dudes out on parole can't easily break into or pick up and leave with...and will most likely read "Cannon" or "Liberty" on the door. Rtpzwms: Yep, great link ! Thank you !

If you do not anchor it down, one person with an $80 handtruck from SAM'S that can handle 800 pounds will allow them to walk out the door in 30 seconds with your 600 pound "Residential Security Container" - that is what Liberty and everyone else's brand name is - if it doesn't have a "T" rating, it is a RSC - at least as far as your homeowner's policy is concerned

beeenbag · September 13, 2010, 07:29 PM

What exactly is a "T" rating?

oneounceload · September 13, 2010, 08:48 PM

Quote:

TL-15 Safes: These are popular Jewelry Safes or Vaults as some like to call them. Mainly used in jewelry stores, check cashing, pawn shops, or collectors of very expensive items. I love them....but I hate to move them. If you need help let me know and we can arrange for setup. These TL 15 Safes are UL listed for both Fireproof Safe rating and Burglary. These are also insurance rated and come with 2 predrilled holes for easy bolting down to the floor. It is important to notify your insurance company if you purchase a TL15 or TL30. Because they may give you a discount on your home owners content insurance.

Be sure to click on the pictures of the TL 15 Safes so you can get specific information regarding weight, height, and features of the individual models. Hayman Safe uses a very easy model system. The last 4 digits of the model are the height and width inside the safe. So model MV15-2016 is 20 inches high and 16inches wide on the inside.

If you still need something stronger check out the TL-30 Safe on page 5 in this section of High Security Safes.

From:

http://www.valuesafes.com/tl-15_safe...FcFk7AodrWo_jQ

The basics, no matter the site, are the same - the T rating deals with the Time, that a pro, with tools will need to break into the safe - 15 or 30 minutes

HTH

EdInk · September 14, 2010, 12:01 AM

I live upstairs in an apartment. How heavy a safe would be okay? I'd hate to have it go crashing through the floor one night or cause the people below to have ceiling problems.

Skans · September 14, 2010, 09:55 AM

Just the thought of getting a heavy gun safe up/down stairs makes me ill.:barf:

Single Six · September 15, 2010, 01:03 PM

Okay, thanks to you guys, I'd say I know more about safes now than when I first posted this thread. Just got off the phone with my favorite gun shop; they not only sell them, they deliver and help you get it inside [a big plus, since quite a few shops don't do either one]. Should be buying it next week sometime. Thanks again, all.

September 11, 2010, 05:13 PM	#1
Single Six Senior Member Join Date: January 31, 2010 Location: N.C. Posts: 1,522	Gun Safe Questions So now I'm thinking about buying a gun safe. My questions for those of you who have them already: I live in a recently-manufactured mobile home. Will my floor [where the safe will be] require any reinforcement ? If so, how do you go about doing this and how expensive is it ? Also, I know full well that if the burglar is determined enough he can break into pretty much anything. Does anyone have any stories to relate as far as having bought a reputable safe only to have it successfully breached by thieves ? As ever, thanks in advance.

September 11, 2010, 07:25 PM	#5
Bud Helms Staff Join Date: December 31, 1999 Location: Middle Georgia Posts: 12,912	That's a great link, rtpzwmsfkitnssjsu. Oops, tripped and fell on my keyboard. __________________ "The irony of the Information Age is that it has given new respectability to uninformed opinion." - John Lawton, speaking to the American Association of Broadcast Journalists in 1995

September 12, 2010, 03:50 PM	#8
alfack Senior Member Join Date: March 5, 2009 Location: Marysville, Washington Posts: 195	My house has a fairly deep crawl space. I think my floor would probably be able to handle the 800+ pound safe, but I reinforced it anyway. I put a 4x4 across the floor joists at either end of the safe, with a screw type jack on one of those cement block piers under the 4x4. So far, no sag or anything. Good luck. Last edited by alfack; September 12, 2010 at 03:57 PM.

September 14, 2010, 12:01 AM	#12
EdInk Senior Member Join Date: May 27, 2009 Posts: 3,902	I live upstairs in an apartment. How heavy a safe would be okay? I'd hate to have it go crashing through the floor one night or cause the people below to have ceiling problems. __________________ Sic Semper Tyrannis

September 11, 2010, 05:19 PM	#2
beeenbag Member Join Date: May 30, 2010 Posts: 53	I too live in a mobile home and have a 700lb empty weight safe. I placed it directly overtop of the frame rail under the floor and simply blocked it up solid under the frame. Also a word of advice, bolt it down, wall and floor, and try to put the opening side of the door (opposite the hinges) against the wall if possible. This will deter a theif from using a pry bar to open the door.

September 11, 2010, 06:06 PM	#3
oneounceload Junior member Join Date: April 18, 2008 Location: N. Central Florida Posts: 8,518	Depending on how your home is set up, it MAY require some sub-floor extra support - you might be able to do it from underneath with some pier supports, 4X4 and plywood IF necessary...finding the main frame supports is a good start.... good luck

September 11, 2010, 06:35 PM	#4
rtpzwms Senior Member Join Date: July 6, 2010 Location: OTS Posts: 787	Here is something you might want to read.

September 11, 2010, 08:44 PM	#6
oneounceload Junior member Join Date: April 18, 2008 Location: N. Central Florida Posts: 8,518	There IS a difference between a Residential Security Container and a real "safe"

September 11, 2010, 11:35 PM	#7
Single Six Senior Member Join Date: January 31, 2010 Location: N.C. Posts: 1,522	Thanks for all responses. Oneounceload: I read you loud and clear ! To clarify: I'm not talking about a cheesy $149.00 steel gun cabinet from Wal-Mart that's marketed as a "safe"....I'm talking about a SAFE. Fire-resistant, about 600 or so pounds, something 2 or 3 dudes out on parole can't easily break into or pick up and leave with...and will most likely read "Cannon" or "Liberty" on the door. Rtpzwms: Yep, great link ! Thank you !

September 13, 2010, 07:29 PM	#10
beeenbag Member Join Date: May 30, 2010 Posts: 53	What exactly is a "T" rating?

September 14, 2010, 09:55 AM	#13
Skans Senior Member Join Date: November 20, 2008 Posts: 6,362	Just the thought of getting a heavy gun safe up/down stairs makes me ill.:barf:

September 15, 2010, 01:03 PM	#14
Single Six Senior Member Join Date: January 31, 2010 Location: N.C. Posts: 1,522	Okay, thanks to you guys, I'd say I know more about safes now than when I first posted this thread. Just got off the phone with my favorite gun shop; they not only sell them, they deliver and help you get it inside [a big plus, since quite a few shops don't do either one]. Should be buying it next week sometime. Thanks again, all.