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Old August 3, 2010, 03:15 PM   #1
blkmoon
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Remington 788

I am trying to put a recoil pad on my Remington 788, but I do not know if I should shorten the stock the thickness of the pad or not? Maybe I am being an idiot, but it feels to long when I put it up to my shoulder. Any advice would be appreciated guys and gals!
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Old August 3, 2010, 03:29 PM   #2
Rifleman1776
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You are the only one who can answer that question.
If the pad makes it too long for you, I would think you would want to shorten the stock. It is called customizing.
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Old August 3, 2010, 03:49 PM   #3
oneoldsap
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If it fits you now you should shorten the stock so that you end up with the same length of pull with the new pad in place !
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Old August 3, 2010, 05:42 PM   #4
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You could check usining the old shotgun rule of thumb that with the buttstock in the crook of your arm and laying out along your forearm, the middle of your index finger pad should just reach the trigger.
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Old August 3, 2010, 06:06 PM   #5
Doyle
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Quote:
You could check usining the old shotgun rule of thumb that with the buttstock in the crook of your arm and laying out along your forearm, the middle of your index finger pad should just reach the trigger.
There are better ways to check. The best way I know of requires a 2nd person. Mount the rifle and sight down the barrel. Have a 2nd person note the distance between the knuckle of your thumb (the one holding the pistol grip) and the bridge of your nose. That distance should be about 2 inches more or less. If you have less than about an inch and a half then you can easily put on a recoil pad without cutting. If you have more than about 2 1/2" then you need to start trimming. Between 2" and 2 1/2" you could probably get away with not trimming but you may have to set your scope mount back a tad to get the proper eye relief.
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Old August 3, 2010, 07:57 PM   #6
DnPRK
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Ramline makes a composite stock for the 788 that comes with a recoil pad installed.

Unaltered original stocks for the 788 are hard to find and expensive if you do find one.
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Old August 3, 2010, 07:59 PM   #7
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Thank You!!!!

Thank you all!! Thats what I was looking for everyone. Now what is the best way to trim the stock? I have a stationary and corded belt sander along with a mouse sander and good old armstrong sanding.
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Old August 4, 2010, 12:10 AM   #8
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A band saw or a miter saw is what I use to cut the stock.
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Old August 5, 2010, 03:07 PM   #9
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Replace stock

If I do have to replace the the stock, what kind of a price am I looking at? Right now the one on it is a light wheat color.
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Old August 5, 2010, 03:27 PM   #10
Doyle
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There is a great Larry Potterfield video on Youtube on how to trim a stock and fit a recoil pad.
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Old August 5, 2010, 11:28 PM   #11
hoghunting
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www.brownells.com carries the Ramline stock for the 788. You could also Google the stock and find a few.
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Old August 6, 2010, 01:11 PM   #12
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788 stock with 7.1" spacing
788 stockwith 6-3/4" spacing
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Old August 6, 2010, 02:33 PM   #13
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Thanks very much for the info everyone! I think I am going with the synthetic stock. I asked around and finding an unaltered original stock if I messed up mine would be a nightmare! So thanks again everyone!
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Old August 7, 2010, 12:09 AM   #14
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"...my Remington 788..." What chambering? Decidedly under rated rifles in any chambering. Rumour has it that Remington discontinued 'em because they were too good for an entry level rifle.
"...Maybe I am being an idiot..." Hi. Not even a little. A guy who thinks about it is a very long way from the guy who just starts cutting.
"...what kind of a price am I looking at?..." Assorted Rem 788 stocks(walnut, et al) can be had here for reasonable money. The chambering matters though. About half way down. http://www.gun-parts.com/remingtonstocks/
When you install a pad, you can adjust the LOP to fit you. A quick way of finding your LOP is to put a yardstick in your bent elbow and grasping it. Where your finger comes is your LOP. Shouldering a yard stick like a rifle and looking where your finger comes works too.
Yes, you must cut the stock to compensate for the thickness of the pad. A mitre box(can't say as I've ever seen one wide enough for a butt stock for any rifle though) or saw is the best way. Followed by a bench belt sander(your stationary sander) to match the pad to the stock. Masking tape on the wood helps.
"...if I messed up mine would be a nightmare..." Only if you don't have the tools. Not everybody does. You have tools/machines most guys don't. Especially guys living in one bedroom apartments. I'm insanely jealous. snicker.
"...There are better ways to check..." Nope. Far more complicated for something that isn't.
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Old August 7, 2010, 07:54 AM   #15
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A quick way of finding your LOP is to put a yardstick in your bent elbow and grasping it. Where your finger comes is your LOP.
I do not recommend that way to anybody who is looking for a good fit. It ignores such variables as shoulder thickness and neck length. I posted a better way a few weeks ago. You shoulder the weapon and sight down the barrel like you are going to shoot it and have another person note the distance between the thumb knuckle of your grip hand and your nose. Ideal distance should be somewhere around 1 1/2". A tad less if you are going to be wearing bulky jackets when shooting.
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Old August 7, 2010, 12:36 PM   #16
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308 Winchester

My 788 is a 308 Win. I know a 308 Win doesn't kick much, but I have MS. As a result of that my shoulder is sometimes very sensitive. To be able to shoot more than a few rounds I have to have a pad.

I am going to try all of the methods you all have given me to see which one works the best. One of the only things good about being disabled, besides being able to spend as much time with my children as they can stand, is I can shoot/reload/etc. as much as I want to!
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Old August 7, 2010, 08:58 PM   #17
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A mitre box(can't say as I've ever seen one wide enough for a butt stock for any rifle though) or saw is the best way.
Since I was the one suggesting a miter saw or band saw for cutting the stock, I am happy to reply. My DeWalt miter saw has cut 2x12s, and since the power head slides, it can cut much wider boards. Many people have advanced from the $10 plastic miter box.
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