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Old April 26, 2010, 05:47 AM   #26
Doc Hoy
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Tex,

Been there...Done that.
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My reading of history convinces me that most bad government results from too much government. Thomas Jefferson
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Old April 26, 2010, 08:08 AM   #27
wogpotter
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I'm assuming the liquid Crisco, not the solid "shortening"?
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Old April 26, 2010, 08:34 AM   #28
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Wog,

Nope,

Crisco shortening in the one pound can. So far this season has been un-naturally cool. No day yet over 80 degrees. I may have to add more Crisco to the mix to thin it down a bit. The recipe is stiff but my primary quarrel with Bore Butter is that is it too thin, too runny.

I also don't like that it smells like my Grandmother (rest her soul) on Sunday morning.

I also don't like that it is so expensive. (When I was shooting long arms low those many years ago, I felt that everything marketted by Thompson Center was more expensive than it needed to be. I developed a minor antipathy toward the company which I have not gotten over yet.)

I also don't like that it comes in tubes and needs to be squeezed out like mayo on a hoagie. Has anyone ever tried squeezing some Bore Butter out the tube only to discover that an air bubble has formed? Then when you squeeze thinking you have a tube solid with Bore Butter the air bubble reaches the nozzle of tube. You get a pop and little droplets of BB all over your shooting table.

I know my recipe does not match some recommendations for pure beeswax and such but it works for me.
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My reading of history convinces me that most bad government results from too much government. Thomas Jefferson

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Old April 26, 2010, 12:01 PM   #29
wogpotter
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Thanks, one thing I'm learning as I get more into BP is to check exactly which "crisco" is being referred to when the name is used!

As a side note I was in a craft store this weekend & found a block of "substitute beeswax" in the art candles section. Supposedly (according to the label) it is stiffer than candle wax to support forming better. (I guess for those sculptured candles where slices are peeled & sliced like flower petals?) I wonder if that might be handy as a beeswax sub for "other purposes"
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Old April 26, 2010, 12:11 PM   #30
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WP,

I think the reason most folks like beeswax is that it is not a petroleum based product. I would not assume that is true of this beeswax substitute.

As I said I don't see the detrimental affects from using my recipe but then I don't shoot a lot and I clean often and thoroughly.

I actually never thought of using Crisco oil. Perhaps a paradigm shift is in the offing.
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My reading of history convinces me that most bad government results from too much government. Thomas Jefferson
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Old April 27, 2010, 12:53 PM   #31
jerryv
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thanks for your suggestions and comments.
i have thaken both guns apart cleaned and lubed them. i got 150 .451 lead balls a brass flask with powder in it and about 100 caps with the guns but have not shot them yet. i think its black powder but no idea how old it is.
i have ordered the .454 mold, repair kit, r.h holster(they came with 1 l. h holster), the 1858 new army 5 1/2 barrel .44 cal. revolver and spare cylinder. from Cabelas.

wow!! cap prices! i been reloading and casting for hand guns for several years and thought that sp and lp primers had gotten high at $30 per k. the caps i find are $6.50 - $8.50 per 100. midway shows $47 per k but with a $25 hazmat fee thats no bargin. oh well i guess if you gona dance you gota pay the band.

im a little confused about loading the cyls. first powder then greased wad then greased ball then more grease? powder -ball greased wad? powder- ball then grease? i guess i need a step by step on how much of what and in what order... thanks again.
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Old April 27, 2010, 01:45 PM   #32
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Grease or wad is more of an either-or situation than a belt & suspenders one.
Either: powder, wad, ball, ram repeat. Cap the nipples as a totally separate last step. Or: powder, ball, ram, grease, repeat then cap the nipples.
If you dos both I don't think anything horrible would happen, but it would cost a lot of time & be really messy.

A tip I found on here.
Load each chamber completely (except the cap) before going on to the next one. Leave the rammer down when going to the next step in that chamber, it stops the chamber rotating during loading.
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Old April 27, 2010, 02:18 PM   #33
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Quote:
Load each chamber completely (except the cap) before going on to the next one.
For me it is much faster to use a BP Revolver Stand. That frees up both my hands to measure and pour powder. I don't pour directly from a flask like some folks do. My routine:

Measure powder, pour in first chamber, push in lubricated wad, rotate cylinder and repeat for remaining chambers. When all chamber have powder and a wad I take the revolver out of the stand and use the revolver's rammer to seat all the balls one right after the other. This way, when you pick up the revolver to put the balls in the powder will not spill out regardless of the angle you hold the revolver. The wad holds the powder in. And, seating the balls is fast because you are doing all 6 one right after the other while the rammer is in your hand. Also, with the revolver in your hands you have maximum leverage based on positioning most comfortable to you.
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Old April 27, 2010, 03:19 PM   #34
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Jerry

Quote:
a brass flask with powder in it
Many here will tell you not to load directly from the flask to the chamber. Too much danger of detonation of the flask because of burning embers remaining in the cylinder from the previous shot. Some here have personal knowledge of it happening and apparently (I never saw it) it is not a pretty sight.


Quote:
I think its black powder but no idea how old it is.
I recommend not using that powder on strength of the lack of information. It is probably okay but on the odd chance that the previous shooter put smokeless powder in the flask and you then load it into the pistol your addiction could come to a hasty and unpleasent end.

The .451s will probably load easy but IMHO you will be thankful you bought a mold for larger rounds. I find it interesting to measure the diameter of the balls with micrometer or caliper. My guess is that you will see some variation in the size in a run of bullets.
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Old April 27, 2010, 06:37 PM   #35
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Quote:
I think the reason most folks like beeswax is that it is not a petroleum based product. I would not assume that is true of this beeswax substitute.

As I said I don't see the detrimental affects from using my recipe but then I don't shoot a lot and I clean often and thoroughly.
Paraffin and vaseline are two petro products that apparently defy the rules. Doc the problem would mostly appear during cleanup. Water has no affect on petroleum lubes and petro solvents don't work on bp fouling. What you end up with is a tarry mess that makes cleaning twice the chore.
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Old April 27, 2010, 06:46 PM   #36
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Hawg

I believe I remember someone talking about a whitish film. Seems like this might be a residual of parafin.

Have you seen this?
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My reading of history convinces me that most bad government results from too much government. Thomas Jefferson
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Old April 27, 2010, 07:11 PM   #37
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Never really used it Doc. Just going on hearsay but from several different people. I did try mixing some up once but it didn't mix well for me so I discarded it.
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Old April 27, 2010, 07:43 PM   #38
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Quote:
Quote:
I think its black powder but no idea how old it is.
I recommend not using that powder on strength of the lack of information. It is probably okay but on the odd chance that the previous shooter put smokeless powder in the flask and you then load it into the pistol your addiction could come to a hasty and unpleasent end.
Very, very good advice. Use the stuff in the flask for fertilizer in the wife's spring flowers (you'll get lots of points) and put some stuff in the flask that is a known pedigree.
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Old April 27, 2010, 10:07 PM   #39
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Jerry - I have absolutely nothing constructive to add t this thread . . . but that's not unusual.

Welcome to the board . . . . you'll love it here. The longer you're on . . . the more "certifiable" you'll be as far as going insane like the rest of us!
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Old April 28, 2010, 09:38 PM   #40
jerryv
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thank you very much.
forums like this provide a wealth of information from those that can speak from experience. their advice and suggestions can prevent a lot of mistakes save time and expense. ill be a student here for a while and sure ill have more questions.
oops here is one now. home made wads. someone said they use wool felt but i havent found any thats wool. will anything else work? greased cotton balls?
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Old April 28, 2010, 09:41 PM   #41
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Pre Lubed Balls

Quote:
I keep the round balls in a tub that I get Chinese food in. I put about a teaspoon of bore lube in the tub with about a hundred balls. Then I shake it around until the balls are covered with lube.

I used to pick up the balls with my fingers but that is too messy so I made a little tweezers out of poplar to pick them up. Keeps the operation a whole lot less messy.
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Thank you for the info. I had been wondering if pre-lubing the balls would work without contaminating the powder. I am glad to here that it works well. It seems to be an excellent idea and a better way of loading. I have been lubing the entrance to the chamber; I will be pre-lubing my balls from now on.
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Old April 28, 2010, 10:34 PM   #42
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Quote:
home made wads. someone said they use wool felt but i havent found any thats wool.
Two sources - go to the local resale shops and find some old felt hats. One good sized felt hat will make a couple hundred wads. Or try this web site: http://www.durofelt.com/.
Run by a wonderful lady who knows all about using wool felt wads for muzzleloaders. Best source I've ever found.
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