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Old March 30, 2010, 06:27 PM   #1
yggorf
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Lightening trigger on 1911

What are the spots (in priority order) to look to when lightening a 1911 trigger?

I have a stock Kimber with a 6.25 lb trigger pull. I disassembled it, cleaned everything, and polished the sides of the hammer and sear, and also the trigger bow (outside edges). I also extremely lightly stoned the sear and hammer hook engagement surfaces, because I could see rough spots.

When re-assembled, the trigger is still at 6.25 lbs. Where would I look next -- bend the sear spring, change the mainspring, or what? I am trying to get to 3.5 lbs for bullseye competition. Thanks.
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Old March 30, 2010, 08:07 PM   #2
dreamweaver
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replace the sear spring with one from cylinder and slide. that should get you down to around 4 pounds.
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Old April 1, 2010, 01:39 PM   #3
jglenn
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trigger pull

If you are trying to get to a bullseye type of trigger just take to a Smith who Knows those types of triggers and let him do it.. Well worth your time if you're serious about the sport.


Have him change out the internal parts too


you'll find that almost all bullseye pistols are set way to low for a carry weapon BTW.
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Old April 1, 2010, 04:40 PM   #4
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I'll not get into the "hows" of doing a trigger job, but I will say that there are boatloads of threads on the web regarding 1911 trigger modification and adjustment... as well as parts, tools (including filing jigs) and step by step instructions.
Most of the written guides run from fair to good, none I've seen will tell you something stupid or dangerous. (so far)

When I do a trigger job on a 1911, I start with premium parts from Ed Brown, Wilson Combat, C&S, Randall Power and Doug Koenig, among others.
If you really want to do this yourself... it doesn't matter if it's a 1 lb pure target trigger or a slick, crisp 3.5 lb carry trigger... you always start with the best parts you can afford and parts that are already designed for the application. Few stock, original pattern 1911 parts lend themselves well to competition modifications.

Good parts and a thoughtful process are, by comparison, cheap when compared to an AD.

Cheers,
C
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Old April 1, 2010, 05:40 PM   #5
Casimer
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I've had good luck w/ the 'trigger pull kits' from C&S - e.g. http://www.cylinder-slide.com/index....odshow&ref=367

But you'd want to confirm that they'd fit your Kimber.
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Old April 1, 2010, 06:09 PM   #6
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You can do it yourself, and it's interesting to learn. I think I only went through two hammers and three sears before I really got it down.
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Old April 1, 2010, 06:48 PM   #7
Creeper
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Quote:
I think I only went through two hammers and three sears before I really got it down.
A relatively short learning curve!
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Old April 1, 2010, 07:00 PM   #8
Unclenick
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I cheated and got some supervision.
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Old April 1, 2010, 07:05 PM   #9
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That ain't cheatin'... just good common sense.
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Old April 1, 2010, 10:12 PM   #10
digdeep74
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helpfull reading

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/lid=1...__Trigger_Pull


pay close attention to the sear spring adjustment!
This is the most important part of reducing trigger pull ,creating good sear hammer hook engagement is more for making your trigger crisper .
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