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Old November 13, 2009, 11:37 AM   #1
essohbe
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10|22 bull barrel accuracy

I am wondering just what is the difference in accuracy for the 10|22 tapered factory barrel vs a bull barrel?

Is it enough to make buying one worth it?
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Old November 13, 2009, 11:52 AM   #2
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I think it is worth it.
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Old November 13, 2009, 01:42 PM   #3
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Worth it.
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Old November 13, 2009, 03:12 PM   #4
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Most bull barrels are worth your time and money !!

I am to understand that when these bull barrels first started coming out, MR. Bill Ruger was a bit put out as he thought that his standard barrels were every bit as good as the after market bull barrels. I certainly can appreciate his feelings as the OEM barrels were or are good. That doesn't explain why Ruger then came out with their target models and I certainly find no fault in this. .. ...

I am also aware that there are bull barrels out there that are not as good as a standard factory barrel. However, there are some fantastic bull barrels out there and as they say, you get what you pay for. One factor is the added weight of the bull barrels. That's how they started and now have gone to carbon fiber and other materials. Kind of hard to take a bull barrel out for tree rats.

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Old November 13, 2009, 03:50 PM   #5
kiwi56
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10/22 bull barrels

If you get one of the barrels from one of the more respected makers you are paying for a lot more than just the name. Even Rugers T22 barrels vary a great deal in quality as do Butler Creek, some are okay some some are just plain down right rough. At the end of the day you get what you pay for. I have rebarrelled two 10-22's one with a 21.5inch Clark Fluted Stainless (Lothar Walther blank) and the other with a Volquartsen 20 inch Stainless and with other work on both rifles both will consistantly shoot sub sub 1/2 moa at 50yards indor. The Clark is chambered in .22lr and the VQ is chambered in .17mach 2

Last edited by kiwi56; November 14, 2009 at 05:33 AM.
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Old November 13, 2009, 08:16 PM   #6
Slamfire
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Quote:
I am wondering just what is the difference in accuracy for the 10|22 tapered factory barrel vs a bull barrel?
I don't have a post 80's 10/22. The factory barrel on my 80's 10/22 was not very accurate. A lot had to do with a huge chamber. You could drop a round in the chamber, push on the rim, wobbling the round.

I had Volquartzen install one of his Lothar Walther barrels. The chamber is so tight that you have to shoot the round out.

I am of the opinion that the chamber fit is critical to accuracy.

However, a tight chamber will have function issues in a semi automatic mechanism.

I have been told by a Highpower champion, that the factory target 10/22 he owns is as accurate as an Anschutz.
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Old November 14, 2009, 12:20 PM   #7
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Honestly the the accuracy difference between the factory .920 (diameter) barrel and the tapered sporter barrel is minimal. That's because they share the same chamber. In most cases diameter itself doesn't matter all that much because a 22LR doesn't get hot enough to cause drift. It's a tighter chamber, smoother bore, and a well shaped crown that make the big differences.

Moving up to a quality aftermarket barrel can tighten your groups up a lot as long as you find a target or match grade round that your barrel likes. 22s are funny that way and a barrel will like one brand/model of match ammo much better than others and the only way to know which one is trial and error.

If you decide to replace the factory barrel then both Green Mountain and E.R. Shaw make good quality, very accurate factory contour barrels for around $110-120. The best bang for the buck in steel 920 barrels is probably Green Mountain at $100-150. A step up in accuracy would be a Kidd, Volquartsen, or Clark Custom for $200-250 - but most people don't shoot well enough to see the difference between a $150 barrel and a $250 barrel.

Of course once you go to a non-banded barrel then stock bedding may become necessary to extract the full potential of the barrel. The only limit is your wallet.

As far as Anschutz vs 10/22 I have yet to see a Ruger 10/22 at the Olympics. But that doesn't mean that a 10/22 can't be made plenty accurate to be very competitive local and regional matches. The shooter and ammo selection will make the difference.
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Last edited by sholling; November 14, 2009 at 09:03 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old November 14, 2009, 12:30 PM   #8
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I have the chance to buy an ER shaw stainless at half the price, how about free floating it? Any experiences?
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Old November 14, 2009, 03:35 PM   #9
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10/22 barrel

My advice is go with either E R Shaw or Green Mountain, free floating is okay but remember to leave a supporting pad at the very end of the barrel channel because if you don't you are likely to get barrel droop. The barrel mounting system is a little different from most rifles and is probably looked on as the achilles heel of the 10-22 design along with the single bolt holding the receiver into the stock. VQ with their alloy and stainless after market receivers use a far superior collet system for holding the barrel into the receiver and with that you can totally free float your action. Some after market receivers also have a second stock attachment lug and bolt fitted to make securing to the stock even better.
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Old November 14, 2009, 04:41 PM   #10
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Kidd

I can't say enough about the Kidd barrel.........I have Green mountain, Ruger hammer forged..reworked stockers......The Kidd at 200.00$ is the best I have tried....they have a light weight also 16 1/2" 18 " AND 20". I have 6 10/22's in various configurations....... If you really want to shoot get the Kidd trigger and bolt...
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Old November 14, 2009, 07:26 PM   #11
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If you want to make your 10/22 a target rifle it's worth it. After I made the conversion i ended up switching back because the added weight and loss of iron sights annoyed me. However, at one point I had a bull barrel, match stock, bipod, and scope... and it coupld produce 1 1/2 inch groups at 100 yards
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Old November 14, 2009, 07:40 PM   #12
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10-22

The cheapest option is to probably go out and buy a semi custom Volquartsen 10-22 but to most of us who have family resonsibilities we can only dream of spending that amount of money over such a short period of time.
For most of us customising our rifle our selves is the only viable option. Although to make an extreme 10-22 it will not be any cheaper, however with similar quality parts it does allow us to do things one step at a time and a rate that won't have the bank manager or the wife on our case.
Both of my 10-22's have been customised so much that the only part of the original gun is the receiver and both of those receivers will be replaced as soon as the new stainless ones arrive fron Volquartsen.

Last edited by kiwi56; November 14, 2009 at 08:58 PM.
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Old November 14, 2009, 09:18 PM   #13
sholling
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Quote:
how about free floating it?
The single screw system for attaching the receiver to the stock makes free floating iffy. If you have a tight receiver to stock fit you can get away with free floating. Otherwise the receiver can move around and your rifle will pattern like a shotgun. The answer to that is either bed the receiver or the barrel or both. that's also one answer to barrel droop with a heavy barrel - the other is an adjustable v-block. The v-block is what holds the barrel to the receiver and you can buy a replacement that includes a screw to support the weight of the barrel.
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Old November 14, 2009, 09:43 PM   #14
Suwannee Tim
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I have a box stock bull barrel Ruger that I am very happy with. Very accurate.
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Old November 14, 2009, 10:22 PM   #15
John Clum
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Not to overly hijack the thread, but I get 1 1/8" groups from my bull barrell at 100 yards and after much fiddling with no improvement even with expensive Eley rounds, I gave up and figured that my 10/22 was just not destined to shoot MOA. But it sounds like you guys think that 1 1/2" or better at 100 yards is pretty good for the little plinker?
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Old November 14, 2009, 11:14 PM   #16
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10-22

John,What brand of bull barrel are you using and have you done or had any other accuracy work done with regards to bedding or trigger etc?
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Old November 14, 2009, 11:18 PM   #17
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Just my opinion, and we all know what that is worth , I think if given a fixed budget where you had the choice of upgrading the barrel or the trigger group of a 10/22, I would go with the trigger group every time. I really believe the stock trigger limits accuracy more then the stock barrel by a long shot.

That being said I have built two up with GM barrels and they are fantastic in the accuracy department but I have also replaced the trigger groups.

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Old November 15, 2009, 12:31 AM   #18
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Why not start out with a target rifle? Converting something like a 10/22 seems like a waste of time & money to me.

My Mod 75 Win. has been taking headshots on squirrels, quail and other game since I was a kid. My son, now 25, has just learned to appreciate it. It is really satisfyiing to hit exactly where you want.
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Old November 15, 2009, 01:24 AM   #19
sholling
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Quote:
Why not start out with a target rifle? Converting something like a 10/22 seems like a waste of time & money to me.
Two reasons. First it's just a heck of a lot of fun to build up a 10/22 into exactly what you want - make it your own. Second you can turn it into a seriously accurate target rifle. Something that is competitive in local and regional matches. So yes you can run out and buy an Anschutz (I own one) for less than many people put into their 10/22s but to me it loses some of the enjoyment when you just shoot something off the rack.





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Old November 15, 2009, 04:23 PM   #20
John Clum
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kiwi56
John,What brand of bull barrel are you using and have you done or had any other accuracy work done with regards to bedding or trigger etc?
Volquartsen carbon fiber THM barrel and Volquartsen trigger job. Fajen laminated stock. Barrel was bedded by Mr. Volquartsen personally. I think this cost about $700 (plus $150 for the rifle) back in 1998. Sent it back after the first time (2" groups) and when it came back the 2nd time Volquartsen said it was sub-MOA but I could never get it to shoot that well.

Was trying to get it good enough to shoot Smallbore silhouette (crazy, right?) but didn't think it was good enough. Been pretty much a safe queen the last 10 years.

That leaves my question unanswered (and yes I think the thread has officially been hijacked now) -- do you guys think 1 1/8" is "good" for 5 shot strings at 100 yds?
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Old November 15, 2009, 08:16 PM   #21
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its not the rifle thats accurate its the shooter
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Old November 15, 2009, 11:52 PM   #22
essohbe
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Quote:
...do you guys think 1 1/8" is "good" for 5 shot strings at 100 yds?
For me it is, lol.
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Old November 16, 2009, 05:22 AM   #23
kiwi56
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Accuracy

1 1/8 inch groups at 100 yards is ok if your rifle is consistantly shooting groups that small but if testing for accuracy I shoot my groups at 50 yards indoors which you would probably find would take your groups down to even less than half of what they currently are because of no wind effect on the bullet at one hundred yards you are rapidly approaching the maximum effective range of the .22long rifle cartridge. My rimfire scopes are zeroed at 50 yards so it makes sense to test at that range. My best group so far shot at 100 has been .79 inch but that was on a day when there was absolutely no wind and shot early in the morning. If it looks like I will be taking shots over 100 meters and weather conditions make shots with the .22lr or .17 Mach2 doubtful I simply take along my 223Ackley which handles the sub tropical winds that we get here so much better.
So often at the range I have seen people fluke a 3 or 5 shot group which is just pure luck and they are convinced their rifle are sub MOA where their usual performance is probably closer to 1.5MOA, just human nature I guess but to me I would only call my rifle that if it can consistantly shoot groups that small. Because with rimfire rounds reloading is not an issue you just have to keep testing various brands of ammo until you find something your rifle likes.
My 10-22 loves PMC Match rifle but doesn't like the winchester T-22

Last edited by kiwi56; November 16, 2009 at 05:33 AM.
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Old November 16, 2009, 05:42 AM   #24
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IMOO, buy the Ruger FACTORY bull barreled 10/22T to start with (I had the K10/22T). You can add a bipod, optics and a trigger job and come out a whole lot better and cheaper than buying a stock 10/22 and building it from the ground up. www.southernoutdoorlife.com
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Old November 16, 2009, 09:44 PM   #25
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The factory 10/22T Hammer Forged Barrel is a great shooter,although on the heavy side. There are aftermarket barrels that are a little more accurate,but why spend several hundred more for a tad more accuracy.
I shot mine with several different ammo's yesterday.
10 rd groups at 50 yrds.



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