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Old October 23, 2009, 12:04 PM   #1
Thirties
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1911 square edged firing pin stop help . . .

Here is my question, posed in the smithy forum.

I post it here for better exposure. Thanks for reading.

http://www.thefiringline.com/forums/...d.php?t=381457
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Old October 23, 2009, 01:18 PM   #2
RickB
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I don't leave the file cut when I'm working with the EGW stops, so as long as the file will remove a bit of metal with each pass, it doesn't really matter. After breaking the edge, I create a small radius, rather than leaving just a sharpish bevel, so whatever marks the file leaves are removed in the process. I usually use a Brownells sight notch file to get things started.
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Old October 23, 2009, 04:31 PM   #3
Thirties
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Rick, thanks. I'm not a metal worker (wood yes), so i didn't know what type of file to get. Between your answer and others, i'm getting a good idea.

Cheers.
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Old October 23, 2009, 04:40 PM   #4
doctruptwn
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I don't know the term for the different files, But I use a flat metal file, Nothing overly agressive. The type like you can buy at True Value or Walmart type places.
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Old October 23, 2009, 08:22 PM   #5
madmag
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What you want is a set of pattern files. These are smaller than normal files and the set will give you options on shape a cut. I would have to look at my set but usually a set has about 7-8 files.

When you create your radius start by making three flats. Then blend the flats so you have a radius. Use the files so the file goes across the entire surface on each stroke.....not just in one small area.

If you want to get fancy you can get a radius gage. This will allow you to make a very good radius that has a certain radius.

Last edited by madmag; October 23, 2009 at 08:27 PM.
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Old November 23, 2009, 05:58 PM   #6
Thirties
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I got the file -- Swiss from Browell's -- and I also used an Arkansas stone I already had. The two stops I got were a Wilson and an EGW. both were easy to file. Wilson went into my old WW2 1911a1, and the EGW went into my colt S-70.

They each needed reduction on both sides. The softening at the bottom was straightforward.

To be honest, I don't notice any difference from before (rounded tapered "standard" firing pin stops).

But the biggest difference is how nice the fit is on both stops -- no chance of clocking the extractor, nor FPS falling out. The fit is snug and positive, but not binding. And certainly they are not loose any more as before.

So, it's worth the little time and money to make yourself a truly custom made firing pin stop. And the other benefit is knowing a bit more about your 1911 -- from the inside.

Thank you all for your replies.

Last edited by Thirties; November 23, 2009 at 07:10 PM.
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Old November 23, 2009, 10:26 PM   #7
RickB
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I wouldn't necessarily expect much of a change, from just the firing pin stop. Make note of how far the gun ejects spent cases, then put the older firing pin stop back in, and see if they're not being flung farther.
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