S&W Model 19-3 Problem

[slim56]

I have had this gun for several years and have started to shoot again. However when I got this piece out to the range it would not shoot in double action. The hammer or trigger would stop (catch) after a short distance of the expected pull. Would like to find a manual for repair (detailed dis-assembly & assembly) or the name of a reputable pistolsmith.

Thanks,

Slim

[LSU Snapperhead]

Are the casings dragging on the firing pin bushing? Some times a little bur will form from dry firing. I have had to have the firing pin bushing replaced on a J frame that was doing the same thing..


I would not recommed taking it apart unless you realy know what you are doing...



later

[BillCA]

It's obviously not normal. So the first thing to do is look for reasons it might bind. This includes looking for burrs on the recoil shield face and around the firing pin bushing.

Another thing to check is the ejector rod. These are left handed threads but they still get loose occassionally. When this happens, the rod gets "longer" and puts binding pressure on the star extractor. If the gun was difficult to open this another clue. See if the extractor rod turns with the cylinder held firmly. If so, clean the threads with alcohol and apply LocTite Blue or Nail Polish to keep it from reoccuring.

Another likely culprit is some kind of loose debris in the action - a piece of lead or brass from firing. Check the cylinder hand window (the slot in the recoil shield next to the firing pin hole).

If the action is binding up during DA trigger pull and the cylinder is rotating, it may be;
- Debris inside the action
- A worn/damaged hand or hand-pin
- A worn/damaged DA sear.

I'd bet on a burr or loose debris.

The insides of a S&W aren't overly complicated. But before taking off the sideplate, try flushing the inside of the gun with a spray cleaner, gun solvent or simply something like Rem Oil, then slowly work the action. If it gets better, you can continue to flush the action until you find the debris fall out or open the sideplate to locate and remove it. If you don't know how to properly remove the sideplate, let a gunsmith do it for you.

Here's what a J-Frame looks like inside. It uses a coil spring vs. a leaf spring on your M19, otherwise it's much the same.

[slim56]

Bill,

I flushed the action until solvent run clear, no improvement. There are no burrs on the recoil face or the firing pin bushing. I had the side plate off and could see no visible damage, but what would I know. (don't know what to look for)
I played with this thing for a while tonight after reading a post about evaluating a used revolver for purchase. I discovered that if I tried the DA trigger pull with the cylinder in its natural position it didn't work. However, if I put the slightest pressure on the cylinder with a thumb or finger (either forcing rotation or retarding rotation) the DA trigger pull worked everytime. I don't know how to contact you directly, probably by design, as it looks like you are a busy man. I hope that you see this.

Thanks,

slim56

[Sport45]

If you click on his name in the post above yours you will get the option of emailing Bill or sending an private message.

It may be too late, but do you know how to properly remove the side plate from a S&W revolver? Remove the grips and side plate screws with the proper size hollow ground screwdriver. Then, holding the gun with the side plate up in one hand strike the grip frame with a plastic mallet, screwdriver handle, hammer handle, etc. The plate will pop up by inertia and nothing will be scratched, bent, or marred. Of course, some parts my pop up by inertia as well so you need a description like the one above to get it back together.

Make sure the cylinder is clean paying particular attention to the area under the ejector. With a couple or three empty cases in the cylinder grab the cylinder with one hand and try to turn the ejector rod with the other (no tools). If it turns the rod is too loose and needs to be tightened. I don't know offhand if the 19-3 is left or right hand threaded, but you will be able to tell if you can turn it by hand.

I think the 19-3 is a P&R gun which adds a bit to its value. Take care with the thing.

[slim56]

Sport,

Thanks, for the forum lesson. Unfortunately a prior owner (someone needed cash now kinda of thing) had already removed the side plate. Left a very small lip. The area under the ejector plate is clean, that was the first place I was told to look at by someone at the range, and at the time it was filthy but has since be cleaned. It is left handed thread on the ejector rod and seems to be tight. P & R gun? Enlighten me please.

[BillCA]

Slim - Get thee to a gunsmith for an evaluation.

I suspect that there is either some issue with the cylinder stop (or "bolt") not disengaging properly or an issue with the hand that rotates the cylinder. In either case, these parts affect the timing of the cylinder's rotation and should be fixed by a qualified gunsmith.

One last test to narrow down the issue... open the cylinder, then while holding the cylinder release thumbpiece to the rear, see if the trigger will operate normally through it's cycle. If not, something inside the action needs attention. If it works normally, it is either the cylinder stop or the hand that need attention.

FYI: P&R = Pinned and Recessed.
Your Model 19 was built prior to about 1980 and the barrel is pinned into the frame - a small pin in the frame just above the rear of the barrel. The cylinder's chambers are recessed so that the cartridge rims lie flush with the rear of the cylinder face. This was a safety measure started with the .357 Magnum cartridge in 1935 in the event of a case rupture. (Note: All .22LR guns are also recessed for this same reason.)

[syamsunder]

( I do not say above is bent Ej rod ) If it is bent ejector rod can you give your best guess where could be location of bent point along length of the rod.

There is nice video in you tube from mid way usa smith showing to repair bent rod held in drill check and hammering it under dial gage.

As it is fast video i could not see frame by frame the exact location of bent.

Based on principle of ' weakest point get brunt ' I suppose the( junction ) beginning of back step on ej rod may be location.
( front portion is measuring 3/ 16 ( 4.76 mm ) with back step with thread on it to get attached inside stalk of extractor star / ratchet.

The size of 3/16 is unavoidable because ej rod of s&w has to accommodate center pin of 1/8 size and also its spring.
Reason why i ask this is ; i have much simpler design of crane attachment both at breech side & front side ; i want to use 5/32 Ej rod as solid single piece that do not has separate center pin .

It has spring with forward bias and E j rod with front step sitting in a counter cut in to a barrel attachment ( with side linear mill cut for delivery )

If hollowness of s&w Ej rod with smaller dia step at its back is location of bend ( rather than front thicker 3/16 portion ) then there is meaning in my thinking of small dia rod . When even big rod bends there is no point to try smaller rod.
can you clarify .
Purpose of this change is to add more metal in to front frame below barrel thread which is weakest zone.

[slim56]

Relvolver was sent to SAW for repair and is now in use.

Thanks

[LAH]

And the problem was??????