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#1 |
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Junior Member
Join Date: June 19, 2009
Posts: 10
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Cleaning SS revolver and rust prevention...
I just picked up a Ruger GP100 5" barrel revolver and I noticed at the time it had a tiny amount of rust like discoloration on the top of the barrel in the series of parallel grooves that run along the top. If it wasn't a 5" barrel version I might have looked elsewhere but there don't seem to be too many of these around. What would be the best solution for getting these out? I have heard that Hoppes #9 and a bronze brush should do the trick or even maybe the GunBrite jell, but what is the best way to prevent it from coming back? Regular gun oil or is there something else that is recommended for stainless that would be better? Any advice on this would be appreciated. Thanks, Matt
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#2 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: August 2, 2007
Location: Tabor City , NC.
Posts: 1,779
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FLITZ
willclean polish & protect SS, i don`t clean cyl rings with it but once a yr. though
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GP100man
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#3 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: October 24, 2008
Location: Orange, TX
Posts: 2,310
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FYI...."stainless" is a bit of a misnomer - ALL steels can rust. Stainless is just more rust resistant than standard tool steel.
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#4 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: February 23, 2005
Posts: 9,961
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I would use Flitz polish on it as well ......
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#5 |
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Junior member
Join Date: February 2, 2008
Posts: 3,150
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To get the "rust" out of the grooves I would recommend a small stainless wire brush and run it along the grooves. Apply your favorite oil and go forth and sin no more. Flitz is more of a polish, not really aggressive enough to bust rust. Your gun was finished with a wire brush. Even stainless guns should wear a light coat of oil. I have seen people whose perspiration could rust stainless in a matter of minutes.
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#6 |
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Junior member
Join Date: April 18, 2008
Location: N. Central Florida
Posts: 8,518
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In dealing with rust in similar situations, I like to use one of those green "scrubbies" type of things and some cleaner, followed with some oil. Won't take off any metal, but will clean it up real nice
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#7 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: July 11, 2008
Location: OOOOOOOOOOO-Klahoma!
Posts: 403
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Quote:
That being said, I have no idea what grade of stainless your gun is composed of, so none of my little tirade actually matter. So, I owe csmsss an apology. I'm sorry. I wasn't really smackin' on you. |
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#8 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: February 7, 2007
Location: The South
Posts: 4,239
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Quote:
Most modern stainless guns are 416 series, or least 400 series. This is a fairly easy to machine stainless can be held by a magnet. It does have ferrous material and indeed it can rust. |
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#9 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: July 11, 2008
Location: OOOOOOOOOOO-Klahoma!
Posts: 403
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Madmag, I bow to your madskills.
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#10 | |
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Junior member
Join Date: April 18, 2008
Location: N. Central Florida
Posts: 8,518
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Quote:
can't imagine what one of my s.s. guns would be like in that situation |
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#11 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: October 28, 2006
Location: South Central Michigan...near Ohio, Indiana.
Posts: 2,611
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Misinformation?
Quote:
.03 C 18.5 Cr 14.0 Ni 3.0 Mo 2.0 Mn 1.0 Si .045 P .03 S 38.605 % The rest is Fe(Iron), 61.395%. (Do not take my word for the composistion of 316 Stainless Steel, but do a search on the internet). Therefore, 316 Stainless Steel is an alloy of ferrite. Furthermore, the reason that it does not attract a magnet is that it is a Austinetic structure (If you heat plain carbon steel to red heat, it becomes an Austinetic structure and does not attract a magnet until it cools down). Readers please remember that the opinions stated on this forum are free...and often they are worth what you pay for them. |
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#12 | ||
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Senior Member
Join Date: July 11, 2008
Location: OOOOOOOOOOO-Klahoma!
Posts: 403
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Quote:
Less than THREE HUNDREDTHS of a percent of Fe (iron), or in other words, 3/10000. Like I said, virtually no if any... Quote:
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#13 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: July 11, 2008
Location: OOOOOOOOOOO-Klahoma!
Posts: 403
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I would edit my comment, but I'm going to own it. I'm not sure why I thought there was nearly no Fe in 316, but I did. The link I provided in my last post was the first (hence my last post) and only one that I found that supported my statement. Everything else that I've found supports the ~38% other materials and the balance being iron. I retract my statement and was apparently wrong. Dahermit, what do you do?
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#14 |
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Member
Join Date: June 4, 2008
Posts: 92
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taking off the rust
I have had success with a bit of steel wool moistened with WD-40. Yes, I know that WD-40 will foul primers so I only use a light spay on the wool and wipe it dry after cleaning, then a thin layer of gun oil before putting into storage. The first couple of time I tried this I was afraid that the wool might scratch but if you use light pressure on the rust it will come off and leave the metal beneath clean.
BTW the last time I did this was on a stainless Blackhawk and it worked like a charm. |
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#15 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: June 15, 2009
Posts: 360
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I would start off light with a washcloth and hoppes 9 worked into the grooves followed by some lubricating oil before I took any steel wool or wire brush to it if it were my gun. Now if the light treatment doesn't work, then you might need something a bit more vigorous. Regular cleaning with hoppes 9 and gun lubricating oil will prevent any future rusting from being very likely.
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#16 | ||
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Senior Member
Join Date: October 28, 2006
Location: South Central Michigan...near Ohio, Indiana.
Posts: 2,611
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Quote:
Quote:
Retired machine shop instructor, industrial trainer. |
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#17 |
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Member
Join Date: February 21, 2007
Posts: 50
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Stainless steel
Been a ferrous metallurgist for a long time now. Stainless steel can be a very confusing topic for non-metallurgists.... lol.... All stainless steels have at least 50% iron, so they are all "mostly iron", but other elements such as carbon, chromium, and nickel are added to alter mechanical properties and corrosion resistance. There is basically a trade off between strength and corrosion resistance. High strength stainless steels cannot be extremely corrosion resistant and vice versa.
There are basically 2 major types of SS, 300 series and 400 series. 300 series (302, 303, 304, 316, etc) are austenitic stainless steel. 300 series generally have more than 16% chromium. They are soft, they have poor mechanical properties but they are very corrosion resistant (they cannot be heat treated to increase strength). Silverware is austenitic stainless steel. They are non-magnetic. Guns parts (that are stainless steel) are made from 400 series stainless steels (410, 420, 17-4PH, 13-8PH, etc). 400 series are martensitic stainless steels. These steels generally have 12-17% chromium and can be heat treated to drastically increase strength and mechanical properties. They are magnetic. Non stainless steel generally has less than 2% chromium. Making stainless steel stainless is mostly about how much chromium is in the steel. The more chromium, the better the corrosion resistance. The chromium actually results in a very thin chromium oxide which basically acts like a very tenacious paint, keeping the actual metal underneath separate from the outside world. This post is for the curious!
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358-1 Beretta 92FS, Ruger SP101, Ruger GP100, Ruger Blackhawk, Taurus Millenium Pro 111, Walther P22, Ruger 10/22, Mossberg 500, Mossberg 835, Marlin Model 60, Savage Model 340 |
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#18 |
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Member
Join Date: July 2, 2007
Posts: 42
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I like the flitz paste too..
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#19 | ||
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Senior Member
Join Date: July 11, 2008
Location: OOOOOOOOOOO-Klahoma!
Posts: 403
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Quote:
Quote:
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