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Old June 9, 2009, 12:54 AM   #1
MuscleGarunt
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ACKKK RUST in my barrel.

Lesson learned from this. After you clean your rifle, even if your going to shoot it next week, FOR THE LOVE OF GOD PUT OIL IN YOUR BARREL!

I went out to the shop and glanced at my Mosin, I saw some red dust in the crown of the muzzle. I figured it was copper fouling, no biggie. Upon closer inspection it was RUST!!!!!

Just surface rust mind you, but I shot this rifle 3 days ago and cleaned it thoroughly with Hoppes #9 and figured I was going to shoot it next week so I would skip the oil in the barrel part, one less thing to do before shooting. Well in 3 days it started to RUST!!!!:barf:

So no matter what, even if I am going to shoot it the next day, I am oiling my barrel, it's worth the extra minute it takes to remove it before shooting.
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Old June 9, 2009, 12:57 AM   #2
liberty1
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You either live in a very humid climate or have been shooting very corrosive ammo. I have never had that happen and rarely oil the barrel.
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Old June 9, 2009, 07:09 AM   #3
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I've never oiled any barrel, and I live in super-humid St. Louis. No rusting issues here.
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Old June 9, 2009, 11:30 AM   #4
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I have a beautiful M39 SkY.
I cleaned it with the ammonia and water patches.
A week later I ran a patch down the bore, it was covered with red rust!
Took a half dozen patches to get one to come out clean.

Now I use a different cleaning technique.
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Old June 9, 2009, 12:22 PM   #5
MuscleGarunt
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Could you share your technique? I clean vigorously and thoroughly with Hoppes #9, bottle says it cleans corrosive deposits.
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Old June 9, 2009, 02:57 PM   #6
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Quote:
...cleaned it thoroughly with Hoppes #9...
Quote:
...cleaned it with the ammonia and water patches. A week later I ran a patch down the bore, it was covered with red rust...
The corrosion is caused by the metallic salts from the primers. Oils and solvents do not dissolve the salts - the scrubbing may physically remove some of them, but will just re-distribute the rest. Regular clean water will dissolve and remove the salts. Anything more (ammonia, soap, etc.) is either ineffective or overkill.
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Old June 9, 2009, 03:37 PM   #7
MuscleGarunt
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Well Hoppes says it removes corrosive salts?
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Old June 9, 2009, 04:40 PM   #8
simonkenton
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I get a sauce pan and put a couple of quarts of hot water in it.
Squirt some liquid dish soap in it and put it on the floor.
Remove the bolt.
Put a patch on the cleaning rod.
Stick the muzzle into the water, and run the patch from the breech all the way to the muzzle.
Draw back, all the way to the chamber.
Repeat a dozen times.
Bye bye to all corrosive salts, and a bunch of other nasty gunk.
Use a couple of dry patches, then clean as normal.

US ammo in WW2 was corrosive, this is how the Marines cleaned their rifles in WW2.
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Old June 9, 2009, 05:27 PM   #9
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little confusing, but I think I can manage...should I use the same method to clean my K98s after using the Turkish surplus crap?
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Old June 9, 2009, 09:35 PM   #10
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We use to come in from the field and clean the weapons in the shower, Hot soapy water and then LSA or later breakfree
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Old June 10, 2009, 07:20 AM   #11
jsmaye
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Quote:
Well Hoppes says it removes corrosive salts?
Quote:
...cleaned it thoroughly with Hoppes #9 ...Well in 3 days it started to RUST!!!!
Well, you decide - does it or doesn't it?
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Old June 10, 2009, 09:44 AM   #12
simonkenton
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Supposedly the ammonia/water patches work also.
I know guys who swear by it.
I swear at it.
Not only did it leave me with a rusty bore, but, it will eat the finish right off of the wood.

Ammonia didn't work for me but the hot soapy water will not fail to clean out all corrosive salts.
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Old June 10, 2009, 09:53 AM   #13
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The water in the ammonia/water solution removes the salts. The ammonia in the ammonia/water solution removes the finish.

At best, ammonia is overkill. At worst, it's a stripper.
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Old June 10, 2009, 10:28 AM   #14
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I grease a patch and send it through. No joking. I have started using grease for EVERYTHING.

Alright, there is one exception, my "GOTO" guns. Sometimes I go a long time without shooting them. I worry the grease will gum up while they are stored, so I use lighter oils on them. It isn't as good, and if I was more dedicated to cleaning and relubing guns I had not fired I would use grease.
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Old June 10, 2009, 06:12 PM   #15
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As has been pointed out, the issue is the corrosive salts left as residue from the priming compound in almost all surplus ammo (Swiss excepted), and even some new manufactured eastern european stuff. I have never had a single issue with rust in my Mosins. This is what I do. I use Windex and run maybe 3 or 4 patches through, then one to dry. I then clean with Hoppe's #9 with a brush, then a couple of patches as usual. I use Sweet's 7.62 when I need to get the copper ot. I lube with Break Free. Easy, cheap, and no rust.
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Old June 10, 2009, 06:14 PM   #16
MuscleGarunt
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I'll have to try that windex out.
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Old June 10, 2009, 08:45 PM   #17
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Quote:
I get a sauce pan and put a couple of quarts of hot water in it.
Squirt some liquid dish soap in it and put it on the floor.
Remove the bolt.
Put a patch on the cleaning rod.
Stick the muzzle into the water, and run the patch from the breech all the way to the muzzle.
Draw back, all the way to the chamber.
Repeat a dozen times.
Bye bye to all corrosive salts, and a bunch of other nasty gunk.
Use a couple of dry patches, then clean as normal.
EXACTLY!!!!

This works well for cleaning corrosive deposits from any gun that you can do a complete pass through with a rod. Works well with inline muzzleloaders, surplus bolt guns, etc.

The cleaning patch forms a vaccuum and draws water up into the barrel flushing everything out. A few passes and you are good. Then just dry and apply a light coat of oil.
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Old June 11, 2009, 12:25 AM   #18
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+1 on the Windex. I hose the bore and action down with it, then run through it with S&W cleaner, then oil with either Hoppe's #9 or a fair amount of Jig-A-Loo. That Jig-A-Loo is good stuff, i tell ya.
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Old June 11, 2009, 02:48 AM   #19
Dr. Mauser
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any advise for cleaning a K98? I dont want to ruin the one I shoot (My Grandfather brought it home after the war)
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Old June 11, 2009, 03:08 AM   #20
MuscleGarunt
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If you shoot handloads or factory modern stuff just clean as usual. If it's surplus berdan primed corrosive stuff use the windex and hoppes method and oil the barrel after cleaning. Remember to remove the oil before shooting.
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Old June 11, 2009, 03:24 AM   #21
B. Lahey
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HOPPE'S DOES NOTHING FOR CORROSIVE RESIDUE

Your own experience should tell you that, but I guess not everyone believes their own eyes.

Hot water with a little dishsoap in it works as well or better than Windex, and it's cheaper. Almost free, in fact. If you are saving pennies by shooting corrosive milsurp, why blow it on blue liquid when water works great?

Hot soapy water, brush, hot soapy water, dry, clean and oil as usual. It works. Hoppe's and oil do not work.
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Old June 11, 2009, 10:23 AM   #22
simonkenton
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Are you serious about the K98?
Pull the bolt, get the saucepan with the hot soapy water on the floor, get to work!
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Old June 11, 2009, 10:35 AM   #23
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If you use water what is the best way to dry the gun out completely? I ask in reference to a AK-47.
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Old June 11, 2009, 03:33 PM   #24
Chipperman
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Wait...... You want to CLEAN an AK?!?!?




If I use water or any water-based products like MPro7, I will hand-dry as much as possible, then use CLP afterward to displace any water left.
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Old June 11, 2009, 04:19 PM   #25
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Quote:
If I use water or any water-based products like MPro7, I will hand-dry as much as possible, then use CLP afterward to displace any water left.
Yep, and the hotter the water you use the more will evaporate. Meaning less you have to swab out afterward.
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